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Old 01-15-2007, 05:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by TomW
You may well have a 'vertical' model.

At this point you need to post a photo of your Caravel's existing configuration as I do not have a jpeg of my near-horizontally mounted shocks to share for comparison.

All said & done, you might be in good shape.

Tom

Vertical mounted shocks are almost 90 degress straight up, from horizontal.

Horizontal shocks are at about a 30 degree angle up from horizontal.

Andy
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:07 PM   #16
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Well then I'm pretty sure I'm in the clear now and have the correct vertical shocks for my 67'. Those shocks are pretty much vertical and by no means lay at a 30 degree incline or so. Thanks for all you guys input. I've had many restored cars but this is my first classic trailer and I just bought it last week for $2300. I think I got a heck of a deal. If anyone is interested in seeing it I can send pics.
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:27 PM   #17
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Post some pix under the photos tab

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967-Caravel
.. If anyone is interested in seeing it I can send pics.
This forum gives each member a fairly good chunk of disk space under the "photos" tab in which to post pictures.

We would all appreciate seeing pictures of your "new" Caravel.

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Old 01-15-2007, 06:48 PM   #18
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I just posted pictures under my profile........Please view and I would appreciate any positive or negative feedback about trailer.
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:03 PM   #19
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Nice!

Nice looking trailer. That should be a cool project!

Best Regards,
Henry
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Old 01-15-2007, 08:41 PM   #20
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caravel shocks

I bought the more expensive original equip. shocks from Inland RV because they dampen in both directions! A car shock keeps your car from bottoming out-one direction. The new shocks actually restored the proper height of the trailer relative to the tire and axle so I have more wheel well room. (still only 3/4" on the frig side) joe q in flyover land (MN)
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:27 PM   #21
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I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not but I did buy the Heavy Duty Gas charged shocks and not the old cheap hydraulic shocks which don't dampen worth a flip. These should work well for the amount of traveling and camping I do. Thanks......
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Old 01-15-2007, 10:52 PM   #22
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For all you guys who said "just bend the bracket" and put your shock on..............Did you have to heat it up with a torch to do this? That bottom shock bracket must be 3/8" thick and I don't see it just bending easily.
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Old 01-16-2007, 04:48 AM   #23
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No heat

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967-Caravel
For all you guys who said "just bend the bracket" and put your shock on...Did you have to heat it up with a torch to do this? That bottom shock bracket must be 3/8" thick and I don't see it just bending easily.
Oddly enough, this image of a horizontally mounted shock from member Pick's photo gallery was headlining the opening page before I read your post:



The top mount is bent to allow shock replacement, and doing so requires no extraordinary effort (I used a large adjustable wrench).

Heat should be avoided around a Duratorque axles as the core is made of rubber rods which could be damaged if care is not taken.

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Old 01-16-2007, 07:25 AM   #24
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On my 67 it does not look like this. The lower mounting bracket it small and thick and is behind the drum and that is the one that there is not enough clearnance to put shock on. The other upper bracket is a vertical shock tower that is mounted to the inside body of the inner fender so the shocks mount vertically up and down. I guess I'm going to have to drop the axle down for clearance to put the shock on. Thanks guys.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:41 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967-Caravel
On my 67 it does not look like this. The lower mounting bracket it small and thick and is behind the drum and that is the one that there is not enough clearnance to put shock on. The other upper bracket is a vertical shock tower that is mounted to the inside body of the inner fender so the shocks mount vertically up and down. I guess I'm going to have to drop the axle down for clearance to put the shock on. Thanks guys.
Dropping the axle down a bit is the easiest way by far. I too looked at the bending method and had the same thought process/result. It won't take you too long once you get started.
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Old 01-16-2007, 10:58 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1967-Caravel
I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not but I did buy the Heavy Duty Gas charged shocks and not the old cheap hydraulic shocks which don't dampen worth a flip. These should work well for the amount of traveling and camping I do. Thanks......

Increasing the resistance offered by a shock is not always a good thing. The shock stud can handle just so much before it fails.

In time, with your "gas" shocks, you will probably find that one or the other shock "studs" has broken.

Andy
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:32 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joqin
I bought the more expensive original equip. shocks from Inland RV because they dampen in both directions! A car shock keeps your car from bottoming out-one direction. The new shocks actually restored the proper height of the trailer relative to the tire and axle so I have more wheel well room. (still only 3/4" on the frig side) joe q in flyover land (MN)

Shocks should not make any change to ride height. Exceptions would be air shocks. And gas charged shocks. The diff a gas charged shock would make should hardly be measurable. And neither gas shocks or air shocks are recommended for an Airstream.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action
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Old 01-18-2007, 04:38 PM   #28
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Shocks should not make any change to ride height. Exceptions would be air shocks. And gas charged shocks. The diff a gas charged shock would make should hardly be measurable. And neither gas shocks or air shocks are recommended for an Airstream.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>Action

Correct.

Shocks as used by Airstream, DO NOT level anything.

They are motion restricters, period.

Artificially lifting the trailer with "air shocks" will cause the shock studs to break.

Andy
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