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10-23-2013, 12:58 PM
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#1
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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WORST JOB EVER: Bathroom Caulking.
I want to preface this rant by saying that I have done everything on the Argosy from sub floor replacement to caulk removal and rewiring/re plumbing. That being said, the worst job that I have had to tackle thus far is caulking and water sealing the bathroom and shower areas... Even with the "professional" tool and all the patience in the world, this is the messiest and most frustrating thing I have done to date. I am now completed with the job but I thought maybe someone else could benefit from my experience and others, so chime in with tips and tricks...
1. Have loads of towels or paper towels on hand to wipe off excess caulk.
2. Use your finger (with gloves) to smooth corners. The tools are worthless IMHO.
3. Have tons of time and patience because this takes forever to get right.
There are some of my tips... Anyone else?
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10-23-2013, 01:06 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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I thought that I knew how caulk.
Then I saw a pro painter do it. He put a very thin even bead down, smoothed it out with a damp finger, and hardly any was actually wiped off. Fast as can be.
in all fairness, he was doing trim, not a shower that needed to be sealed.
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10-23-2013, 01:11 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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I am sure with years of experience, it would get much easier and cleaner. I went through two rolls of paper towels and a box of gloves... LOL.
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10-23-2013, 01:29 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
1995 30' Excella
Bowie
, Maryland
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,345
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I once saw a professional wallpaper guy cut a perfect circle around something mounted on a wall. Freehand.
I re-caulked our shower at home a while back. It seems like it should be easy, but it's definitely a lot harder than it looks to get it right.
__________________
1995 Airstream Classic 30' Excella 1000
2014 Ram 2500 Crew Cab with Cummins 6.7L Diesel
Sold but not forgotten: 1991 Airstream B190
Sold: 2006 F-250 6.0L Powerstroke Supercab
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10-23-2013, 01:57 PM
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#5
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Rivet Master
1964 26' Overlander
Richmond
, Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 790
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Yes.
Put painter tape (blue or green) about 1/8 on either side of the caulk line. Cut your caulk tip small - don't use too much caulk.
Use a couple of damp papertowels to clean your finger. caulk the line first, release pressure on the gun, then hold the papertowels with one hand, and spread with another.
Wait 15 minutes, then pull up your tape. Leaves a very clean line. The 15 minutes is tricky. Too early and it seems to smear, too long, and it tends to pull the caulk out.
Watch some youtube videos if you still are having trouble. could be your technique.
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10-23-2013, 02:11 PM
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#6
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"Tinbad ... the Trailer"
1971 25' Tradewind
1965 26' Overlander
Ferndale
, Washington
Join Date: Mar 2011
Posts: 356
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Caulking is to humans what a magnet is to steel except no two types act the same so it is a life long nightmare.
The perfect bath room would be chiseled out of a solid piece of granite....no seams!
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10-23-2013, 02:15 PM
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#7
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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I did try to use painter's tape but I ran into 2 issues. The first is what you mentioned. I pulled it up to early and it smeared and then I ended up fixing with my finger anyway. Then the other was that the painter's tape would not stick to my tiles. I tiled about 50% of the new bathroom and the tiles are seriously hard to get tape to stick to. I tried duct tape but I was nervous it might leave a residue, so I stopped...
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10-23-2013, 02:22 PM
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#8
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Rivet Master
1964 26' Overlander
Richmond
, Virginia
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 790
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You may have some residue from installation you can't see. Try wiping down the tiles with alcohol before you put down the tape.
the little tiny caulk tubes that are like toothpaste tubes can sometimes give you more control and you can cut a smaller tip
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10-23-2013, 03:32 PM
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#9
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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Good idea with the smaller tubes. Next time around (hopefully never) I will try that...
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10-23-2013, 05:03 PM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1973 27' Overlander
Currently Looking...
Jupiter
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,061
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Skip any & all caffeine twelve hours in advance.
Grab a stick or two of chewing gum to chew & burn off nervous energy.
See what the caulk wants to do, arbitrate a compromise, don't look back
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
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10-24-2013, 10:09 AM
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#11
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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Well I went back in today to check out the dried product and I am impressed. Didn't come out half bad. One problem I did encounter: I did one seem with another brand for a test run and realized after the fact that it was not paintable. Since I was planning on painting the same as the bathroom walls, I wanted to cover that up. When I covered with the new product, in some areas, it peeled back a bit... DO I need to fully remove the other caulk and begin fresh in order for it to work?
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10-24-2013, 11:27 AM
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#12
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Home of Vortex tuning
2013 27' FB Eddie Bauer
Spearfish
, South Dakota
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 614
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I have used ice to smooth out the bead on some putty/sealers when damp fingers just get too sticky.
__________________
"Chip Tank" is in Westwood Ca.
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10-24-2013, 11:46 AM
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#13
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Rivet Master
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,190
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old technology
In 1990, when I first tried caulking, many contractors were using Phoeoseal. I thought that it was great. Now I am paying for it. It doesn't like to be painted.
It yellows. It hard to get off. I help a home remodeler from time to time. He HATES Phoenoseal. He does still use it from time to time, when it won't be visible, and he needs it's adhesive properties.
Bottom line....Knowing the materials is a huge part of the game.
Question...I have read not to use silicone on aluminum. The trim in my trailers shower looks like aluminum. So what are people using. I like Alex caulk when doing woodwork.
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10-24-2013, 11:54 AM
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#14
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Rivet Master
1976 Argosy 22
Pasadena
, California
Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 533
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This is what I used:
GE Groov 9-oz. White Kitchen and Bath Caulk-M90025 12C at The Home Depot
I applied it to all seems before I added trim pieces. After it all cured and I painted it, I then added the trim pieces using a separate adhesive meant for swimming pools. I is 25% flex and ok with metals. I hope this combo lasts...
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12-13-2013, 10:21 AM
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#15
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1 Rivet Member
Edgewood
, New Mexico
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 19
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Dipping your finger in soapy water makes it much easier to use your finger to smooth the caulking.... that way your finger glides over the top and doesn't "stick to" (and smear) the bead.
__________________
2005 GMC CC 4x4 D/A
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01-07-2014, 08:09 AM
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#16
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3 Rivet Member
1987 32' Excella
1990 29' Land Yacht
Vintage Kin Owner
Americus
, Alsrural Bristol Tn.
Join Date: Apr 2007
Posts: 170
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There is a tremendous difference tween caulks. Water based or silicone. Silicone needs a solvent to handle and clean up. Regular caulk is OK with soap and water. Silicone is by far superior but much messier to handle and clean up.
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