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Old 09-10-2010, 03:09 PM   #1
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1968 20' Globetrotter
Kelowna , British Columbia
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Wood end caps

I'm getting close to making my plywood endcap to replace the front fiberglass in my GT. I know others have done this and would love to hear of your experiences.

If anyone can give me the panel widths at the front rib and at the window, I'd be forever grateful!

thanks

Ian
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Old 09-10-2010, 03:56 PM   #2
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When you assemble it for the final time add strips of thin aluminum behind each seam to help the rivets get something to grab onto that won't get worn from movement as you travel. The wood will wear out pretty quickly if you just rivet into it without a backer.
Someone else will have to help you with the dimensions.

Rich the Viking
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:23 PM   #3
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I'll try to give you the widths between the rivet rows that I used on mine in a day or so. Each panel is different, so I'd suggest making some templates out of lightweight cardboard or tar paper so you can define the shapes.

Some pics of mine in my thread.

cheers,
steve
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Old 09-11-2010, 10:27 AM   #4
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1968 20' Globetrotter
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Thanks guys! Rich, did you use Olympics or regular Pop rivets? I'm planning on Olympics for the lok but will definitely try to add some Al. for strength.

I'll certainly make templates but thought some measurements would at least give me a place to start.

Ian
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Old 09-11-2010, 11:36 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canlib View Post
Thanks guys! Rich, did you use Olympics or regular Pop rivets? I'm planning on Olympics for the lok but will definitely try to add some Al. for strength.

I'll certainly make templates but thought some measurements would at least give me a place to start.

Ian
I haven't made mine yet, but I'm a woodworker by day and I know that pop rivets will wear out the holes in thin plywood from the movement of the trailer going down the road. Olympics are probably a lot stronger in this application than AL pop rivets, but I don't want to deal with the rivet shaver around the woodwork. One hit on the wood and it's trash. I plan on using steel pop rivets and backer strips.
My idea is to layout the shape of each piece on the outside of the fiberglass endcap to locate where the seams will be and how much each piece overlaps the next one. Then I will have an accurate size for each piece.
I'm planning on doing mine with a whale-tail inside, to celebrate the '56-'57 California design that I like sooo much.

Best to you,

Rich the Viking
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Old 09-11-2010, 12:45 PM   #6
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Another thing to consider is to wick some thin super glue into the hole from the back side to "hardened" the wood. Of coarse if you plan to stain the wood then don't do it until after the staining process.
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