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Old 01-30-2015, 02:37 PM   #15
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This is an interesting article on foil Insulation.Stay Away from Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com
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Old 01-30-2015, 04:59 PM   #16
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This is an interesting article on foil Insulation.Stay Away from Foil-Faced Bubble Wrap | GreenBuildingAdvisor.com
Prodex is not foil faced bubble wrap, Reflectix is foiled faced bubble wrap.
Prodex has a foam center.
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Old 01-30-2015, 05:12 PM   #17
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Just finished up with 1.5" R-Tec from Home Depot. $16 per 4'X8' sheet. What was interesting is there seemed to be 2 different "flavors" of it. Some sheets on the shelf were more dense and less flexible, others were softer and more spongey. I used those for the more curved sections. I saved the scraps and did the knooks and crannies last which resulted in very little waste. Very exciting when all the sudden my shop light is heating the camper and I'm peeling off layers to keep from sweating and it's 35F outside!
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Old 01-30-2015, 06:23 PM   #18
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Beyond r value has there been any talk of close cell being a water barrier? From my understanding open cell foam is an air barrier and closed cell is a water barrier. Sprayed in the trailer it should seal all rivets and seams. If that is true the value of closed cell foam just went up in my book. Let me know if I am wrong
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Old 01-30-2015, 07:09 PM   #19
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Beyond r value has there been any talk of close cell being a water barrier? From my understanding open cell foam is an air barrier and closed cell is a water barrier. Sprayed in the trailer it should seal all rivets and seams. If that is true the value of closed cell foam just went up in my book. Let me know if I am wrong
Closed-cell foam will not ABSORB water. However, that doesn't mean it will BLOCK water from getting inside if you have a leaking outer skin seam. Everywhere you have a seam in your foam, there is a potential for water to leak through.

And yes, even blown-in foam can have seams, between one pass of the spray gun and the next.
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Old 02-02-2015, 08:04 PM   #20
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Has anybody thought of spraying inside of skins with Lizzard Skin Ceramic Insulation? its waterbased, will act as a waterproofing over all rivits, ceramic beads are supposed to stop heat transfer, it acts as sound reduction, and a vapor barior all in one. I used it in the restoration of my 1950 Chevy, it worked great. its not cheap but does alot of things for one price. i was going to use that and the blue foam board. I have multiple thickneses on the foamboard as it was all for free, about 30 sheets, all seconds from foam plant where my friend works down the street 1/2' to 1'. what about liquid nailing those foam sheets to inner skin, mainly where it curves to keep in place, and than gluing together tomake one thick sheet? That was my plan. Look into the Lizzard Skin, lots of info out there on it.
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Old 02-03-2015, 08:59 AM   #21
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Alis, Your Lizzard skin approach is probably pretty good. I didn't find a need for any adhesive because I cut my pieces to fit snug so they held each other in place, even in the rounded end cap. Then I went over the seams with foil tape for the full vapor barrier.

Depending on how thick the Lizzard Skin is you should probably be able to go with the 1" throughout.
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Old 02-04-2015, 07:12 AM   #22
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lizard skin is 1 or 2mm when dried, I forgot its been 5 years since i used it. alot of people tried to mix latex paint with ceramic spheres, but sometimes ya just got to bite the bullet and go with the real deal.
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Old 02-04-2015, 08:02 AM   #23
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I have a 1989 square stream, when A.S. bilt it they shot the inside of skin with ureathane.
The stuff is as good as the day it was guned on, look into haveing it shot by a pro Copany
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Old 02-04-2015, 10:54 AM   #24
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Great thread: I'm at a similar junction with a '65 and there is something
about plastic bubbles in an area that might well get over 100 degrees
that just rubs me the wrong way. BIG fan of Prodex spacers for minimal outer
shell contact and air barrier.
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Old 02-04-2015, 11:14 AM   #25
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Slightly off topic but I'm at the same stage in my restoration. Getting ready to do a combination of prodex and fiberglass. I've been concerned about applying a sealer to the inside of the exterior skin before putting the insulation in. Perhaps something similar to lizard skin. Is there a thread about sealers to use to replace the tar like substance that was originally used on mine?
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Old 02-06-2015, 07:05 AM   #26
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Hi,

I've stopped my choice.

Many possibilities and each person thinks different, few insulate material are better than other and some different prices etc....

I choose rockwool in 45mm (the same as the beginning...), why ? Because :

It's easy to remove,
It isn't very expensive
it looks like the same as he original brand (fiberglass)

I begin this weekend by the door
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Old 02-10-2015, 04:20 AM   #27
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I was just speaking with Roxil yesterday. They also have a commercial product called "Acoustic Fire Batt" which is the same product, but comes in a variety of thicknesses in 1/2" increments including 1.5, 2, and 2.5" priced comparatively to the regular batts. That way you don't have to split the regular batts to get the thickness you need.
Cheers,
Jack
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