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Old 02-27-2012, 12:42 PM   #113
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Or would a seperate fan work better to pull air from the bottom or the top to keep the skins vented to the outside.
If you're looking to circulate air in the interstitial spaces between the inner and outer skins using a separate vent, you might want to look at the Nicro solar-powered vent: Nicro Day / Night Plus Solar Vent or another, similar model. Mushroom vents of this type are frequently used to vent boat cabins to control moisture. This particular model includes an insect screen to help keep bugs from nesting in your walls.
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Old 02-27-2012, 02:44 PM   #114
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If the air has an inlet and exit from the trailer, natural convection will circulate the air. If you had fresh air vents on the lower outside of the skin for air to come in and vents on the roof for air to get out then you would have a ventilated system much the way the air comes in the soffits on a house and leaves through cable or roof vents. The problem here is all this occurs outside the insulation layer on a house and it would occur through the insulation on an airstream. This would reduce the effectiveness of the insulation. So to do it right, you would need a third skin say ½” off the outer skin and air would circulate through this layer and not the insulation.

I think it practical to keep the leaks and condensate off the floor and don't worry about what is between the skins. The skins and insulation hold up well dispite being exposed to water. Things dry out pretty quick when the sun comes out. A dehumidifyer is probably a good idea to keep moisture in check. As others have said, most of the moisture comes from humans.


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Old 02-27-2012, 07:23 PM   #115
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You are right it would be Over Kill to try to vent each rib top and bottom.
A non rot floor would be the better investment of time and effort. We are not talking that much water in any one place. There is a new thread posted on the forum, nylaboard is the product name. Sounds pricy but promising
Floor replacement material.
Still looking for one to work on.
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Old 02-27-2012, 08:37 PM   #116
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Nyloboard

Some thoughts on Nyloboard.

Wouldn't you still have to prevent leaks so that water does not find its way between the subfloor and floor covering? Mold would still grow. The floor covering will lift with water intrusion, and the covering would deteriorate.

Plywood can "breathe" some moisture out. Nyloboard could not.

Plywood provides a bit of insulation, is nyloboard a solid product? Could it condense vapor because of that in damp weather?

Some plastics have a high thermal expansion rate, plywood seems similar to the aluminum fastened to it. Would it expand/contract and loosen shell fastenings?

Sooner or later I have regretted switching to plastic products over the years. I have to wonder if this would work out in the long run.

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Old 02-28-2012, 07:30 AM   #117
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Nyloboard would not have to be covered. It sheds water. It is plastic. The biggest problem that I can see would be that it is probably not as strong as wood. They give a flextural strength in their literature but there is nothing to compare it to. Also it is probably heavier than wood. So how much more does it weigh than wood and how much extra support ribs are you going to have to have underneath it. 1/2" thick is not very thick. Common composite deck boards that are twice that thick have to be supported about every 12 inches. Composite aluminum might also be a good choice which is going to be lighter and probably stiffer than plastic. It won't be cheap but nothing is on these restorations.

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Old 02-28-2012, 08:28 AM   #118
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I realize that plywood is far from perfect, but one advantage is that it's easy to attach things to it with screws....and things usually remain secure. (And if it tends to loosen, a bigger screw is almost always an easy fix).
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:46 PM   #119
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Ok well I think I am about ready to wet test my C-channel gutter/drain system. I put the final layer of Vulkem around everything. When I get a chance, I will get some food coloring and mix it with some water. I will put that in a bicycle water bottle and fill up the C-channel and see where the water goes. Between the battery boxes, instead of drilling a hole through the c-channel and the floor and steel plate I decided to drill a hole out the side of the c-channel and let the water drain down a large hole where wires come through the floor. I made some flashing to make sure the water did not go under the floor.

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Old 02-29-2012, 06:09 PM   #120
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You may also take a tip from brick wall construction and add cotton weep ropes every foot or so, and extend them out a bit. They will absorb moisture and wick it outside the trailer to dry. Quite effective.

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Old 02-29-2012, 06:18 PM   #121
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Azdel by Robert Weed

The plywood subfloor in my AS came from the Robert Weed Plywood Corp. They make a laminated product called Azdel. This product is advertised to not rot, mold, or be damaged by water. It also contains no formaldehyde and is lighter than wood. This product is intended for use by the RV industry. I wonder if Airstream has looked at this product for the subfloor? Robert Weed already has a business relationship with Airstream and the RV industry. This seems like a natural fit for the Airstream subfloor.

Azdel | Robert Weed Plywood
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Old 02-29-2012, 06:58 PM   #122
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I don't think Airstream is at all concerned about floor rot. It is a feature that saves them money and sells more trailers when the old ones rot away.

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Old 03-01-2012, 09:08 AM   #123
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Bud,
I'm going to look into the Azdel product. I don't know who would sell it near me, but I'll find out. Also, I'm checking into nyloboard.

Perry,
Please post some pictures of what you have done/are doing.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:32 AM   #124
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Isn't Adzel a wall product, too weak for floors?

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Old 03-01-2012, 01:23 PM   #125
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Farther up in the thread is about what I am doing.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...e-87457-7.html

Perry

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Bud,
I'm going to look into the Azdel product. I don't know who would sell it near me, but I'll find out. Also, I'm checking into nyloboard.

Perry,
Please post some pictures of what you have done/are doing.
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:13 PM   #126
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Farther up in the thread is about what I am doing.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...e-87457-7.html

Perry
Perry, your plan looks like a good idea. The one place of rot I had was at a C-Channel joint where the transition to the end cap happens. I resealed all of the exterior seams in the area of the C-Channel joint and was able to stop the leak.
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