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Old 02-23-2012, 09:37 AM   #99
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The awning mounts where leak points on my trailer as well. All of mine used Olympic rivets and none of them were sealed. They were installed after the shell was sealed from the inside so they bypass all the sealing done as the factory.

Perry
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Old 02-25-2012, 02:21 AM   #100
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Perry, if you use the kevlar for the floors at least the repairs will be "bullutproof". I know bad joke.
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Old 02-25-2012, 10:24 AM   #101
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The Kevlar was used to test different shielding concepts for protection from orbital debris. Even a grain of sand can do a lot of damage when it is moving at 7-18km/s. If it is bigger than a marble the space station will have a hole it in. We are going to keep most of it for other projects.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whipple_shield

Perry

P.S. Lets get back to leaks.
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:20 PM   #102
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If I were to do a shell off floor replacement. I would certainly install drains. I would also consider installing aluminum flashing around the perimeter of the floor. A minimum of 12" wide and folded over the edge. One could even fold a lip up on the inside edge of the flashing to prevent any water from getting to the wood in most areas. Obviously there couldn't be a lip across the doorway but 95% of it could have the lip. There could be drains in this flashing as well. Any thoughts?
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Old 02-25-2012, 07:40 PM   #103
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Well the C-channel is a lip or gutter if you wish. If you can make it water tight and put drains in it then the water has a place to go other than the floor. How do you propose to keep water from getting under the flashing?

I think each section of the C-channel should be isolated from the ones next to it so you can tell where a leak is coming from and limit the damage to that one area. This is like the compartments on a ship or submarine.

Perry
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:02 PM   #104
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As I said, you could bend an "L" shaped lip up on the inside edge, it would only have to be 1/4" at the most. With the outside edge folded over or even wrapped over the edge of the plywood. With drains on the "C" channel and drains in the flashing the water couldn't get to the wood.
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Old 02-25-2012, 08:04 PM   #105
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Has anyone sprayed the inside of the skins with the LineX bed liner stuff?
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Old 02-25-2012, 09:07 PM   #106
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The bed liner would be a good choice but I am not sure what sort of surface prep it would need. Also there maybe a weight issue. One of the guys on here coated the interior with some form of ceramic coating and then covered that with spray foam. I think it is best to use something flexible so it won't crack. My trailer has white putty/caulk stuff sealing all the joints but it has no tensile strength and it just cracks. I think spray foam would be a bad idea with out some form of water proof membrane between it and skin. Otherwise water will get trapped and cause corrosion.

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Has anyone sprayed the inside of the skins with the LineX bed liner stuff?
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:09 AM   #107
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Many other RV's - and many boats use foam filled sealed inner and outer hulls. It's expensive to build. Boats which leak can sink and kill you - so sealing their inner and outer hulls is necessary.

For an RV, I don't see the type of insulation as the problem - whether it's fiberglass, foam or whatever. When my unit was taken apart to fix the floor, the insulation was soaked - and even if the floor had been absolutely impervious the inner and outer walls would have corroded from the inside out DUE to the trapped water.

some kind of weep hole just makes sense.

Paula
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Old 02-26-2012, 08:50 AM   #108
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Yeah but the foam traps the water so it can't drain out. The auto industry uses this type of expanding foam and where it is used the body will rust out first.

Perry
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Old 02-26-2012, 12:36 PM   #109
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I was looking for removable adhesive with a wide temperature range and good tack yesterday without much success. I did find removable and fair tack, but not all that good temp range. This is to glue the floor to the subfloor and still be able to remove it without damaging it.

This was at Lowe's and the employee I was talking to suggested Velcro at the edges. Velcro comes in versions with glue backing that sticks through temperature extremes. It adds about 1/16" height and that is acceptable since the flooring I bought is 3/16". Any more than that would be a problem because of clearance under cabinet doors.

So, I can install a floor with loose lay vinyl planks, leaver a quarter inch space all around, Velcro the edges and spray some adhesive at each joint to make sure the joints don't open (I hope). I can lift the floor with suction cups and check the condition of the subfloor periodically. The planks will slide out from beneath the trim with some difficulty because the Velcro will not want to give them up, but it should be doable. I'll use exterior polyurethane on the subfloor (2 coats) and try to get some under the inner skin to seal it better, but I realize I have to remove the skin to do a better job. And once the temps go up, I have to seal everything I can outside. I have a can of Acryl-R ready and waiting. If I were more industrious I would tear out the carpet and do that floor too, but I am not.

I looked at the awning brackets yesterday. They are certainly not sealed well. The leak I found last week was directly under the brackets next to the door. For that I should look for some thin rubber to place under it as a seal or maybe better, Form-a-Gasket. Then I can use Acryl-R around the outside of the bracket and on the screws. I never expect water to go straight down because there are plenty of ways it can go, but maybe this time it did. I am sure the insulation is wet and I am sure many Airstreams have lots of mold between the skins. I think installing small vents at the top and bottom of the inner skin between each rib is the way to solve some of the moisture problem. Another thing to think about.

Gene
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:08 PM   #110
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Floor Rot....Really? This is my first message and my question was trying to decide between a 2012 27FB or 28 International Airstream but now after reading the comments regarding leaks & floor rot, I'm not sure. We were sold on the Air Stream because of durability & quality not floor rot & interior sweating walls.
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:08 PM   #111
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Hi all:
So to sum up what everyone has said there is no one solution. Just to make the floor as rot resistant as possiable. Here is my question. Would the upper vent run across the top of the unit inside the skins, T-ed at evey rib to the fantastic fan outlets and be exhausted with the inside air. Or would a seperate fan work better to pull air from the bottom or the top to keep the skins vented to the outside. A C channel drain would help with the condensation between the skin at the bottom. The plastic plywood and or the al skined sign board sounds like it would be the best floor choice. I love to fix things one time but cost can come into play.
Still looking for my project, something in the 25 to 28 foot range to get started on. Within 250 miles of Birmingham Al. Anyone out there have any suggestions.
thanks
Mike
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:43 PM   #112
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Bebe, the Airstreams have problems due to cost cutting and lack of imagination, but other trailers have the same problems too. And they are made of 2 x 2's and other shoddy construction for the most part. All RV's require constant maintenance and this will help reduce problems. RV industry standards are lower than those of the auto industry.

The people that post here are more likely to be ones with problems, so the percent of Airstream owners with problems may be less than it seems.

You might loo for a used one to save some money too. Airstreams have some advantages over other RV's, but none are perfect.

Don't give up yet. You will never find a thread on any forum where all the posts are "my ___ is great and I have no problems".

Gene
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