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Old 03-29-2015, 01:46 PM   #1
New Member
1985 27' Sovereign
Redding , California
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 4
Vinyl walls on '86 Sovereign

Hi - I have a 2 part question about 'off gassing' since I want to start painting my vinyl walls.
Part 1: I noticed that all surface areas that are exposed 24/7 (ceiling, walls) are very, very sticky (think post-it notes) - even when cleaned by a multitude of products repeatedly - however, the surfaces that are behind closed doors (in the closets, and cupboards) are just fine. SO if it's off gassing, wouldn't it happen regardless of where the vinyl is?
Part 2: since I can't seem to eliminate the stickiness even with extensive cleaning - do I DARE to paint? I've read a lot of suggestions and it seems that Zinsser Bulls eye 1-2-3 is the way to go for a primer - and even 2 coats - then a quality latex to finish (In CA, we cannot buy enamel paint other than a primer).
Okay, it's a 3 part question: I live in Redding, which sees 103-110 degree days for 2-3 months of the summer. How will this effect the staying power of the paint?
ANY suggestions will be appreciated.

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Old 04-05-2015, 05:52 PM   #2
KenSanLan's Avatar
1985 31' Excella
Dade City , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 104
Blog Entries: 1
I hope someone replies to this - I have the same question.

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Old 04-12-2015, 10:19 PM   #3
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 674
To rejuvenate your walls to the point of not even needing to paint you will need...A soft nylon brush, Tilex with bleach or a similar bathroom cleaner with bleach, Pinesol or some similar degreaser, Mr. Clean magic erasers and finally and most importantly.... Rapid Remover (its a industrial citrus based adhesive remover commonly used in the sign industry)

To bring my walls back to their original brightness I first went over my walls with a Mr. Clean magic eraser soaked with water and bleachy bathroom cleaner, that alone made a stunning difference in appearance but that's when I noticed once I took the dirt layer off, the stickyness was there. After I was sure the bleachy stuff had evaporated away (being safe in case of a chemical reaction) I next did the scrub down with pinesol and it helped a lot with the stickyness but in some higher use areas it was still pretty tacky....So being a sign lady I played with the chemicals I had on hand and scrubbed the walls down with whatever I thought might work. In the end it was an industrial glue remover called Rapid Remover that did the trick. Using an old windex sprayer and starting up high working in about a three foot areas at a time I sprayed the walls with the rapid remover and brushed it in to the textured surface with the soft nylon brush, I then let it sit a minute sprayed some more rapid remover on and brushed it in some more, then buffed it off with a paper towel. I then went over the area with a Mr clean magic eraser soaked in the stuff. It was like magic, soft, clean and finally not sticky ☺

The walls in my 1969 Safari look and feel brand new now. I'm pretty sure you won't need or want to paint after. Before I started I thought my walls were a light tan color, they were not...they are in fact white with a lightly printed tan texture 😮 and those vinyl walls are bullet proof. I tested all sorts of stuff on them even lacquer thinner and failed to kill them. ( be safe, do a small test area on your walls as I am not sure if the vinyl they used changed between our model years)

When shopping for supplies buy the stronger magic eraser if it's available, they hold up better, you'll probably need about 4. The rapid remover does not hurt the adhesive on your vinyl walls as the vinyl layer does not allow it through to the adhesive layer, try searching for it online or ask at your local sign shop for a quart, any you have leftover at the end can be used fir removing any sticker or tape residue, sap, tar spots and if you have a vintage trailer with vintage goop it removes the old Vulkem sealant super easily. Rapid remover also evaporates off very quickly so work when the temperature outside is not too high and work in small areas at a time. Open the windows, well oranges smell great for the first few minutes it gets pretty gross after a while. On the plus side your trailer will smell great when you are done,

Don't worry about alkyd enamel paints not being available to you if in the end you still decide you want to paint. The water based Zinsser Cover Stain or Bullseye Mold and Mildew primer would work best as your starting coat for the vinyl walls. Due to the repeated condensation and humidity changes your airstream goes through alkyd/oil paints would fail over time. Water based paints allow for moisture to work its way through without causing the paint to sheet off.
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Old 05-09-2015, 07:32 PM   #4
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1986 31' Sovereign
Jacksonville , Florida
Join Date: Mar 2015
Posts: 17
Images: 2
I'm confused and a bit concerned. I see where you're saying water based Zinsser is a good primer over vinyl. The can says it is also, however a show called Diy Classic Rides they say the opposite. In the interior walls segment the host says that an oil based paint should be used for proper adhesion.
my intention is not to disagree, I just would like to know if you have used the Zinsser primer and what is the best type of cover paint?
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Old 05-10-2015, 12:58 AM   #5
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 674
Originally Posted by Tiger Tail View Post
I'm confused and a bit concerned. I see where you're saying water based Zinsser is a good primer over vinyl. The can says it is also, however a show called Diy Classic Rides they say the opposite. In the interior walls segment the host says that an oil based paint should be used for proper adhesion.
my intention is not to disagree, I just would like to know if you have used the Zinsser primer and what is the best type of cover paint?
Hi Tigertail, that Classics rides segment was awesome, I watched it to, simple answer is the Classic rides guy is a mechanic, I wouldn't ask my mechanic for paint advice unless I was spraying my engine block...

I play with paints almost weekly at my sign shop. I actually do have a test strip of the interior vinyl wall from my 69 Safari that I clipped off from a hidden section when I had my interior walls that I did do paint tests on. I took in to work and threw every paint and ink I had in the shop at it. Left it to cure for a week then did a few tests to check for good proper bondage. With any paint product there are a few important tests to do before going all out, the first test is a tape test. Literally take some good clear tape and scratch it firmly on to your test area, then rip it off. If paint comes up it is not suitable for that use. Second is the scratch test, scratch the paint with your fingernail or a penny, again if it easily flakes off it it not suitable.

I can honestly say I tested about 7 different products but not an oil based primer as I didn't have any left at work and from what I personally know about oils I knew I would never ever use it in my trailers on the inner vinyl walls and as I was just doing the test for my own curiousity I didn't bother running out to buy any. (PS I do use oil paints and love the durability in the correct areas). So why not on those inside vinyl covered walls you wonder...because the inner walls, particularly in my neck of the woods go through a lot of periods of flux, sometimes moist with condensation or dry, or hot, or cold and sometimes even frozen and heck...often on the same days in the right season and oils don't tolerate that treatment well. If water/moisture becomes trapped behind a water based paint it can actually eventually evaporate out of it, water trapped behind an oil paint sits and stagnates and spreads separating the paint from its substrate until it forces its way out. But the most important reason I can give for why I prefer water/acrylic latex over the oil/alkyds is the acrylic latex is flexible when cured and oil is firm and ridgid and in my opinion not particularly suitable to the considerable flexing these trailers go through on a regular basis.

After I did my tests on my wall swatch I tossed my sample into my works dish sink so it could experience some of the same conditions our trailers will go through. I'll try to remember to dig it out next week and put an update on how all my paint samples fared

Obviously these are just my opinions and observations for my environmental factors but for piece of mind with whatever you choose do a small paint test first :-)

For more info on paints I found this page below had lots of info.

Hope this helps :-)
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Old 05-10-2015, 07:20 AM   #6
Rivet Master
1977 31' Sovereign
1963 26' Overlander
1989 34' Excella
Johnsburg , Illinois
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,925
Immediate test results are not adequate to assure long term performance. The vinyl wallpaper laminate, that Airstream used, was a PVC bathroom type product. It was plasticized to give flexibility. The plasticizers migrate over time to the surface and can destroy adhesion. You need to long term testing at elevated temperature to assure the paint selected is good for the long term.
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:10 AM   #7
2 Rivet Member
1972 27' Overlander
Hamlet , Indiana
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 23
Where can you buy rapid remover?
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Old 05-29-2015, 05:56 AM   #8
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1967 17' Caravel
Cadillac , Michigan
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 505
Images: 3
I used Marine Clean diluted 2 parts water, one part MC on my vinyl walls, they are like brand new, even behind the fridge scoop and that was awful. The sticky residue is gone and has not returned a year later.
You will need tons of terry cloth rags.
I got the Marine Clean thru Vintage Trailer Supply
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:02 AM   #9
The Sign Lady
1969 23' Safari
1974 Argosy 22
1964 24' Tradewind
Victoria , British Columbia
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 674
I buy the rapid remover from our sign supplies place. Express sign products in Edmonton. But they likely have a website that could give you distributer information

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