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Old 12-10-2007, 04:17 PM   #21
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HI starting to refinish my tub etc. Looked on the internet, Rustoleum has a tub and sink kit, could not find it locally, but ACE Hardware carries Klenks Fiberglass and Plastic tub refinish kit, looks good, hope it works. Again prep is the key, guy at ACE said give it a bath with Muric Acid first, then follow the instructions with the kit. Kit went for around $38 Also remove ANY silicon rubber..messes the job up good.
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Old 12-10-2007, 05:39 PM   #22
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Tough as Tile 6 months later

Update: The cracks I "fixed" on my 71 lavarette with polyester resin opened and caused some hairline cracks. It looks to me like a problem with the polyester resin having a different shinkage/expansion rate than the original material making up the sink and counter and not the Tough as Tile epoxy paint itself.
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:18 PM   #23
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Marshall,

I had the same problem in my Sovereign. It happened during a really cold spell. Kinda bummed me out a bit!
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Old 12-11-2007, 06:58 AM   #24
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Camoflage and other sneaky period fixes

Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaChop
Marshall,

I had the same problem in my Sovereign. It happened during a really cold spell. Kinda bummed me out a bit!
Ron,
I don't know if I want to get more epoxy paint for a few cracks. Still looks a whole lot better than before. Let me know if you figure out a fix. Maybe a formica insert or some of those 70s hippy flower power decals commonly observed on Volkswagen Microbuses of the era.
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:46 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by solitairenc
I am wondering if anyone relizes that the type of material used in the older Airstreams was an ABS composite. Fiberglass it isn't and I'm wondering if while your traveling down the road it may not take to the bumps so well. I redid mine with a product I bought at Lowes made for refinishing ABS plastic. It came out very well even though I used a brush and not my spayer. If I had a digital camera I would post some shots but alas I don't.
Dear Pizza and Lum, do you think the cracks could be related to the material actually being ABS and not fiberglas? I'm about to repair mine and would really like to use the correct stuff from the beginning.
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:09 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
Dear Pizza and Lum, do you think the cracks could be related to the material actually being ABS and not fiberglas? I'm about to repair mine and would really like to use the correct stuff from the beginning.
The problem did not seem to be with the epoxy paint as with the fiberglass resin I used to repair cracks in the ABS base material. I suspect as the fiberglass cured it expanded causing the cracks. The cracks are more cosmetic than integral. On the uncracked areas the epoxy paint was fine on the ABS.
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:42 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fotochop
Dear Pizza and Lum, do you think the cracks could be related to the material actually being ABS and not fiberglas? I'm about to repair mine and would really like to use the correct stuff from the beginning.
Hi potochop; My 1973 Argosy has ABS tub, not fiberglass. You cannot gel coat ABS because gel coat cannot shrink and expand at the rate ABS does.
I have used a product by DEVCON Seal-n-Place repair kit. I will post details as soon as time allows. At this time the tub is being professionally resurfaced with acrylic finish. Will post pics and info possibly tomorrow. Thanks "Boatdoc"
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Old 12-20-2007, 06:24 PM   #28
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I just spoke to a fiberglass pro today and he shared a great deal of knowlege. ABS and fiberglass are two totally different things. You will know the difference easily for you can see the fibers on the back of the fiberglass. The ABS will be smooth front and back. Epoxy and epoxy paints will stick to both, but will only truly bond to the ABS. The acrylic plastic paints and epoxy paints flex with the plastic and that is why they work in that application. To fix the fiberglass tubs you should not use West system, System One, or other epoxys. You should use polyester resin. The polyester resin and hardners work exactly like the epoxy except they bond to the fiberglass. I actually becomes fused together to make one mass. The gel coat is a top coat that also fuses on and gives the color and shine. The disadvantage of gel coat is it is not flexible and as the tub moves, it cracks the gel coat surface. To compensate for this more layers of fiberglass mat can be added to the back sides of the tub to give it more strength and less flex. Bondo is polyester and bonds perfectly. At the orange box they sell it with chopped fiber in it which works great for filling large areas. The resin can be skimmed over the surface to fill in the fine cracks. Hope this helps clears up a little confusion.
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Old 12-20-2007, 07:03 PM   #29
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A small hole should be drilled at the end of each crack prior to making the repair. This keeps the crack from getting larger. The holes will help act like a rivit when properly applying a layer of bondo and fiberglass matt/mesh..then another finish layer of bondo. IMO the area repaired will be stronger than the rest of the tub.
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Old 07-17-2008, 07:56 PM   #30
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Brilliant.... or very very Stupid Idea!

I was watching the idiot box the other night and saw a commercial for BATH FITTERS... it's the perfect fit!

So, someone ought to call these people and see if they can make a cover for the cracked ABS tubs or even for the endcaps from hell that never stop cracking!

I'm not into vintage except to watch from a safe distance, but wouldn't that be a hoot - if it's affordable - to replace those stained ugly old endcaps and shower pans?

Paula
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Old 07-20-2008, 08:32 PM   #31
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Where do you find someone to trust to recoat the shower?

So if you want to have the shower recoated, who do you call? Know anyone in SW Missouri?
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Old 07-21-2008, 12:59 PM   #32
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I bought a epoxy resurface kit at ACE Hardware, two part..did it last winter, have used it many times and it is fine. I did, along with TSP use muric acid on the tub, if there was any impedded soap, that got rid of it. One kit did the entire bath, counter, sink. I then resealed all with parabond.
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Old 07-21-2008, 02:59 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim in Pima View Post
I bought a epoxy resurface kit at ACE Hardware, two part..did it last winter, have used it many times and it is fine. I did, along with TSP use muric acid on the tub, if there was any impedded soap, that got rid of it. One kit did the entire bath, counter, sink. I then resealed all with parabond.
Was it a paint on or spray on?? And did you have to remove everything ans take it out of the trailer to do it, or did you resurface it in place? I need to do mine.
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:26 AM   #34
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The epoxy was brushed on, did not remove anything except faucets/trim plate on shower, carefully taped the trim and edge. Also did a light sanding 1st as the surface had burns and scratches in it. The drains got alittle on them, however cleaned off with steel wool after it set up.
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Old 07-22-2008, 08:51 AM   #35
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That's what I am looking for, the brush on kind. I don't want to take anything big out if I don't have to. I think the Tough as Tile has a brush on type but Lowe's was out of it the other day. I'll check our local Ace and see what they have. Thanks. Sandy
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Old 08-08-2008, 09:39 PM   #36
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That was great info. we are going to do our tub on our 72 overlander and this let us know what to do
Thanks
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Old 08-09-2008, 03:03 PM   #37
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I did the Toaugh as Tile, from Lowe's/Home Depot can't remember which. I did both the paint on and spray can. The quart can only did one coat on the ceiling so I bought the can of spray and did the second coat. I have to say I didn't like it as well as TUBBY better. www.Tubbyusa.com it is $75.00 per kit and it would have taken atleast 3 kits to do my entire bathroom. I though I would save money and do the Tough as Tile for the ceiling. Tubby is snow white (beautiful) Tough as Tile is off white. Tough as Tile is cheeper but I wasn't impressed with the finish. Both are ok you just need to decide what if best for your pocket book. But if you do TUBBY you need to order all at once at the two coat have to be done in a timely period. If you don't you have to remove all you have done and start over. Everyone that has came and seen our 69 has though we had bought an all new bathroom. My bathroom was gutted and I did all of this in my garage. My only disappointment was putting it back together has caused some nicks and scratches, which I will doctor with some epoxy scratch fixer uper you can get as Lowes/Home Depot. I picked mine up at Ace Hardware. If anyone has question you can email me. I can send you photos.
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Old 10-22-2008, 05:02 PM   #38
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Thanks for the great info everyone, I was wondering the best way to do my bathrooms. From the sounds of it, I can handle it by myself without ripping everything out. Does anyone know if there are other colors besides white?
Thanks again for the insight.
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Old 10-22-2008, 05:23 PM   #39
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I also used Tough As Tile from Lowes, on my bath tub, sink, and sink counter. Quart was enough for two coats. It looks much better than old pinkish yellow stuff. My only complaint is the brush marks in some places. The bath walls and ceiling I did with paint, 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of paint.
Will show pics if anyone can explain how to post them. I just learned how. see next post.
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Old 10-22-2008, 05:49 PM   #40
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Here are the pics of the finished bathroom. I did it without removing them from the AS. I did remove the sink, and replaced the faucet with a new one.
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