Time for a new floor and other upgrades

[jmpratt]

Well my original M70 Domectic fridge died last week, so I figured if I have to take it out, I might as well put in a new floor! I pulled all the interior furnishings out yesterday.

My plan is to:
-Check existing subfloor and then seal it. (looks good so far)
-Install 5mm underlayment and seal it. (Underlayment is to get everything back up to original height and protect subfloor).
-Reinstall furniture.
-Install floating flooring.

Along the way I think I'll install new power and water inlets and an outside shower.

I have to be finished by April 22nd. That's when we're going to the Grand Canyon.

What could possible go wrong?

[Bill M.]

Nothing will go wrong. Sounds like a good plan.

[Mrs.Mod]

Wow! I'm excited for you! And scared. There's nothing like a massive project with a scant deadline. You should have your own TV show. Take lots of pics for us.

BTW, I love the outside shower idea!

[jmpratt]

So far, so good. No surprises with the subfloor. There's a little rot forward of the door but that's about it. I replaced the bathroom subfloor two summer's ago when I fixed the tail end sag. Sealed the subfloor with Behr Water Proofing Wood protector. Took a little more than one gallon to cover two coats. Next step is to install the underlayment and seal that with the same stuff.

Here's some before & after pics:

[Sbb]

That is amazing, and I am all happy I have 6 of 16 lights switched out to LEDS. We all start somewhere and I think with an AS I better start getting handy. Good Luck, enjoy your trip. Sbb

[jmpratt]

The underlayment is in and waterproofed. Looks good so far. I am really happy with the Behr waterproofing product. It took two gallons to put two coats on the subfloor and two coats on the underlayment. The first pic is the underlayment without waterproofing. The other pics are after the waterproofing was applied.

[jmpratt]

When I put in the new bathroom subfloor two years ago, I cut the opening for the toilet flange too big. The result was that some of the screws that hold the toilet flange to the subfloor had no subfloor to screw into, which made the toilet rock. You can see how the cutout is too big and offcenter from the tank hole in the picture below. The fix will be posted in a couple days.

[Mrs.Mod]

This is looking great. You've come this far, you might as well paint the walls.

[Steinmetzmr]

Looks great! This gives me some idea for my 72 Overlander. How many sheets of underlayment did you use total for the floor?

[jmpratt]

Here's what my new toilet hole looks like. (that doesn't sound right). I cut an oversized piece of stainless steel (about 2mm thick) that is screwed to the subfloor and the toilet flange screws into the steel. Much more stable!

[jmpratt]

Today I installed a new Furrion 30A stainless power connection as well as a stainless water connection. Both are from Vintage Trailer Supply. Both were very easy to install.

Before and after pics:

[jmpratt]

How about I just have Beth scrub them? Oh yeah, she did that today!

[jmpratt]

Originally Posted by Steinmetzmr

Looks great! This gives me some idea for my 72 Overlander. How many sheets of underlayment did you use total for the floor?

I used 7 pieces, but that left a little extra. They were only $12 each at HomeDepot.

[TouringDan]

Very nice work. My compliments.

Is your water connection actually stainless? The one I got from VTS is plastic. I have not installed it yet.

I installed a floating cork floor and have been happy with it so far. What kind of floor are you going to install?

Keep up the good fast work!

Dan

[Steinmetzmr]

Thanks, I was thinking about that many but helps to ask!

[jmpratt]

Originally Posted by TouringDan

Very nice work. My compliments.

Is your water connection actually stainless? The one I got from VTS is plastic. I have not installed it yet.

I installed a floating cork floor and have been happy with it so far. What kind of floor are you going to install?

Keep up the good fast work!

Dan

Dan,
This is the one I used:
Stainless Fresh Water Inlet

It's metal, not plastic.

-Jason

[jmpratt]

Today I finished the internal side of the plumbing from the new fresh water inlet. From the fresh water inlet I attached a check valve (recommended from VTS), 90 bend with PEX fitting sweated into it, PEX to another PEX fitting sweated into another 90 bend into the pressure regulator. I hang that regulator from a strap when the bathroom fixtures are installed. I like it, nice and clean installation.

[jmpratt]

Today I ran new PEX from the bathroom sink up to the kitchen. For some reason, Airstream used 1/2" copper TUBE vice 1/2" copper PIPE for this run. Copper tube is what is generally used for air-conditioning. The problem is normal cooper fittings for plumbing are too big for the copper tube. So I yanked it all out and put in PEX.

I installed an outside shower unit in the compartment aft of the curbside wheel. I'll have pictures of it tomorrow.

I bought some 24 gauge galvanized sheet metal and made some new interior wheelwells. $40 for each piece from a local HVAC company. Bent it up by hand over a long table edge. First pic is the new insulation, next it the finished curb-side, and last is the finished street-side.

[Mrs.Mod]

Look at you go! Wheel well looks nice!
John is taking a page from your book. He's outside working on the AS right now. New battery boxes, power converter, fuse panel, kitchen faucet, and fixed the problem with the in-op trailer brakes.
Whew, I need a nap.

[MyAirstreamJoy]

Was wondering what you are using for underlayment and where you purchased? Does this just sit on top of the foor? Are you going to float a wood, cork floor? I am struggling with floor options.... linoleum(glue or floating), cork, or vinyl. Has anyone seen the Freefit flooring? It just lays down, no glue or click installation, would weigh 288 pounds to do full floor(my trailer is empty). Unsure if you can set cabinets on top.