Suggestions for sealing the interior..

[Kyle D.]

So I have been working on my 1974 Sovereign. Back in January I removed all the interior skins and all of the old insulation. Currently I am working on sealing up the interior before installing the new insulation. I read through many of the threads and decided to go with the Loctite S40 on the seams. Then I was curious about trying to seal the rivets as well as a preventative measure. I have some leaky rivets that I plan to replace as soon as the new ones come in. But I figured maybe if I could apply something to help prevent leaks after reinstalling the interior skins, then all the more better. I found a product by 3M. It’s 3M 08656 Paintable Seam sealer. After getting it, I realized that it could give off odors if used for interior applications if not able to dry properly.
Has any one used this product before?
If you have, did you prime the surface before applying it?
Has anyone used a different product?
Open for suggestions, so I figured I should turn to the experts.

[Kyle D.]

Where it currently sits. Unfortunately work tends to get in the way a little more than I like.

[batman]

Originally Posted by Kyle D.

I have some leaky rivets that I plan to replace as soon as the new ones come in. But I figured maybe if I could apply something to help prevent leaks after reinstalling the interior skins, then all the more better.

If they are lose or leak, you can usually re-buck the existing rivets, to tighten them. However If you drill out the old rivet, apply Vulum or TremPro to the new one before you buck it. It will be sealed.

You do not need to seal the inside skin.
Properly seal the outer skin and don't worry about it.

[Sweneau]

What are the type of rivets to use on the outside skin? I hear mention of a rivet shaver also. I have a mix of rivets (original and repair) that obviously don't match. The original are round headed (no center hole). Is there product data or link for these rivets/tool/shaver?
Thanks!

[thesignlady]

Sweneau the type of rivets you are thinking of are called Olympic bulb rivets. You can buy complete kit from Vintage trailer supply. Olympics are very useful for areas where you can't (or don't want to) pull the inside apart to buck rivets.

Here is the info on the olympics cut and pasted from VTS's site
We've put together this kit for customers who want to get everything they'll need to correctly install Olympic shaveable rivets in the 5/32" size. The 5/32" size is the correct size for matching the original rivets on the exteriors of Airstream travel trailers.

The kit includes two No.20 drill bits, one package of Olympic rivets, a manual rivet installer, a mandrel trimmer, the shave tool that finishes the rivets to a dome shaped head (installs in your drill's chuck), and a tube of polyurethane sealant for ensuring rivets are watertight. A #20 bit is slightly larger than a 5/32" bit.

This kit includes:
Shave Tool for 5/32" Olympic Shaveable Rivets
Mandrel Trimmer
Heavy Duty Hand Rivet Tool
Olympic 5/32" Shaveable Rivets (Pkg of 100)
Trempro 635 Polyurethane Caulk
2 No.20 Split Point Drill Bits
These items would cost $289.65 if purchased separately.

And for the trailer that started this thread you could probably buck your rivets as you have ready access to both sides. Buck rivets are considerably cheaper

Here is the cut and paste of VTT's buck section

Our aircraft style riveting kit includes virtually everything you need to do original buck riveting on an Airstream, all at an amazing price. The only thing you will need other than this kit is your own 90 psi air compressor. The center of this kit is our superb pneumatic rivet gun. You'll love the control it gives you.

Kit includes:
3X Pneumatic Rivet Gun with Beehive Spring & Air Regulator ($149.99)
Rivet Set for Airstream Rivets (1/8" Brazier & 5/32" Modified Brazier) ($10.99)
Bucking Bar ($19.99)
Heavy Duty Rivet Cutter ($39.99)
Marvel Mystery Oil ($3.42)
25 Copper 1/8" Clecos ($14.99)
25 Black 5/32" Clecos ($14.99)
Cleco Pliers ($7.99)
2 No.21 Split Point Drill Bits ($4.98)
2 No.30 Split Point Drill Bits ($4.38)
4oz of 1/8 Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/4" Long [Approx 450 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 1/8 Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/2" Long [Approx 290 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 5/32 Modified Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/4" Long [Approx 340 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 5/32 Modified Brazier Head Solid Rivets 3/8" Long [Approx 265 rivets] ($6.99)
4oz of 5/32 Modified Brazier Head Solid Rivets 1/2" Long [Approx 205 rivets] ($6.99)
These items would cost $306.66 if purchased individually.

[Sweneau]

SignLady,
Thanks for the info on the rivets. VTS is "out of stock" unfortunately. I'm not in a rush, so perhaps they'll have this kit when I actually need it. Do these look pretty much like the Buck rivets when installed and shaved or can you clearly see the difference? I'd like to stay uniform if possible. That would help me to decide on which kit to purchase when the time comes. Buck or Olympic.

Thanks!
Sweneau

[thesignlady]

Oops sorry about that. I drained VTS of the regular ones then went back for the stupid ones with washers. When they do get more in buy more than you expect. I'm in to my trailer about 600 or 700 Olympics now...

[thesignlady]

Oh and yes the Olympics look very much like the originals. Only if you look closely you can see the difference.

Kyle B when you get to the first finishing stage if you are putting the old ivory walls back in you can save money by using all aluminium pop rivets purchased at a hardware store for all the hidden behind cabinets and beds areas. Vintage trailer supply sell the ivory pop rivets but they cost quite a bit more than plain. Oh and bathroom spray with bleach like Tilex mildew remover or Sudsing bubbles with bleach scrubbed on with a soft nylon brush and hosed off will bring those vinyl covered walls back to new condition.

[Kyle D.]

Thanks for the info. At the moment I'm wrestling with putting the end caps back in. I thought it would fit with a double lair of foam board. But I figured wrong.

[batman]

If you want leaks on your outside skins. USE Olympic rivets.

Sure they finish up looking almost like a bucked rivet. However they leak like crazy. It is a glorified pop rivet for goodness sake.

I would only use Olympic rivets for a temporary fix until I could remove the inner skin and buck rivet my panel. Even then, I would use "plenty" of TremPro or Vulkum.

For the inside skin Olympics are fine but not necessary. AS used regular pop rivets on mine, so that is what I use.

Good luck with your Olympics.


-Dennis

[thesignlady]

Dennis you are right about them leaking (when not installed properly) the PO of my trailer used Olympics without sealing them and its led to a lot of work for me, I had to seek out and replace every one he ever set into the trailer...I dip each rivet in Sitkaflex as well as pump a squirt into each hole before setting. Good and solid now. And never use the washer ones either they suck, and aren't waterproof...

[thesignlady]

Kyle when you get the thickness of your foam board right another tip for you for when trying to line up the end caps (or walls)

If the holes on the cap don't line up with the existing holes in the ribs, contort your trailer by raising or lowering the nose or jacking side to side, or even letting air out of a tire if you have a compressor to use to reinflate at home until they line up. And Clecos are your friends if you don't have any you will love them. VTS sells them, the copper coloured ones work for the interior rivet size