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Old 11-05-2006, 05:28 PM   #15
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Service and Owners manuals

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Originally Posted by wahoonc
As far as I know there are 3 types of manuals available, the Service Manual, the Owner's manual and a (mythical? I have never seen one) Dealer's manual. The regular service manual and owner's manual are great references if you can get you hands on them.

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We have a limited supply of Trailer Owners Manuals available for the following years.

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We have a limited supply of Trailer Service Manuals available for the following years.

72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 82, 84.

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Old 11-05-2006, 06:21 PM   #16
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in regards to the opening question for this thread it would seem she would be bettr off to try and retain some support, while cutting out a portion of the present divider. Maybe the new cabinets or storage she desires can de used to add some of that support needed.
As for the floors being repaired in pieces, maybe that needs to be added to a more relevant discussion in another thread. We would like t know what book that is from it might be helpful.
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:53 PM   #17
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ya- me too!

hi Blu Hyw-never did like those panels either-thought more than once about pulling them-I'll bet that they do offer some sort of shell twisting support though-like the idea of greek or modern columns ---- --jim
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Old 11-05-2006, 06:58 PM   #18
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It would seem? Why?

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Originally Posted by ALANSD
in regards to the opening question for this thread it would seem she would be bettr off to try and retain some support, while cutting out a portion of the present divider. ...
Why do you think this is a good approach? I personally am comfortable with the poster's first course of action.

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Old 11-05-2006, 07:00 PM   #19
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doesn't it seem from Andy's comments that some support should be retained for the roof?
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Old 11-05-2006, 08:38 PM   #20
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I think you would be looking at the inside of the cabinets next to the wall if you remove the wall. I doubt that AS put a finished side on a cabinet and then covered it with a wall. On my Trade Wind I have the cabinet next to the fridge and on the other side of the kitchen the stove that would be exposed if the walls were removed.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:46 PM   #21
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here's a picture--thanks for the feedback

Gosh a lot of good comments. here's a quick photoshop sketch with where I intend to cut indicated by red lines. I'm going to use a diamond cutting blade on my Dremel and cut right along the edge of the channel. I've already experimented on some places where it doesn't show and the Dremel works quite well. As you can see from the picture, I've removed the tambours in preparation for installing new doors. I may eliminate the cabinet over the fridge so it is even more open. I'll also cut off the top part of the panel by the door. I'll leave the channel in place and try to make some sort of a decorative element out of it.

This paneling is so thin, and the square posts that supported the folding curtain (now removed) so flimsy it's really hard to believe they provide any significant support. In fact, when I put in the new floating floor, the posts weren't even touching the floor and I could slide the pieces right under them. I could, as has been suggested, put some sort of decorative posts there.

I know some folks are adverse to doing anything except an absolute restoration, but hey, this is a 34 year old trailer with a floor plan that may have been cool then. I just like things more open. Seems kind of silly to compartmentalize something that's only 20 ft long.. What you can't see in the picture are all the holes in the paneling put in by the PO. I've puttied them, but it just looks bad.
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Old 11-05-2006, 10:54 PM   #22
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Old 11-06-2006, 06:18 AM   #23
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I think you would be surprised at the support to the roof those give. Just my opinion but even if they stopped the roof form any real flexing in, they might make a difference.
However that would not stop me from doing it if I were you. I would just watch the seams and rivets on the roof above to see how they are holding up every so often. The NASA AS was mentioned above, but I would guess it does not travel the type and quality of roads we all do.
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Old 11-06-2006, 08:16 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lipets
Plywood backed up with a butt block of the same thickness (minimum) as the plywood planking, extending 4" or more on each side of the joint. Butt joints can be glued without fasteners only if epoxy adhesives are used. Fastenings, when used, should be spaced about 2" apart and 1" from edges.
I've used a lot of epoxy (boats). It is technique sensitive and you should be using a filler for flat face bonding. Skin contact is a real no-no. Go to http://www.systemthree.com/sitemap.asp and register as a member; this gives access to very good usage information.

Technology has offered a very good alternative to epoxy, especially for flat face gluing. Gorilla glue is available in small quantities (inexpensive!) and is tougher than plywood itself. It is dark and the glue line is visible afterward. It is available at Home Despot, woodworking and probably most hardware stores. Follow the instructions on the container -- this works unlike any other adhesive you've seen. Squeeze-out is easy to clean up afterward with a chisel.
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Old 11-06-2006, 11:46 AM   #25
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Bob,
Actually it's called a scab, the butt joint is where the two square plywood edges meet.
A scarf joint works as well, but it's harder to machine.
While epoxy does have better gap filling properties than most wood glues, it isn't the only choice, and certainly shouldn't be presumed to be stronger or better in all aplications.
The strongest glue joints are acheived under pressure (clamping, screwing, weighting, etc.) and epoxy is no different. I'd certainly still screw the scab as you suggest, and while perhaps you could remove the screws once the adhesive has cured, why bother?
Jeff
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Old 11-06-2006, 01:19 PM   #26
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I agree, I've been using fiberglass over 40 years, it's is great to work with.

See the Westsystem site also I started using the MAS epoxies they are about 20% cheaper and seem to work the same as the West.
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