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Old 09-21-2010, 04:21 PM   #1
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1983 31' Excella
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Side bath wall removal

This is going to be my first project so I need lots of help. I think I saw something about this but can't find it again. I have an '83 Sovereign with a side bath and because my husband is handicapped I need to remove the hall wall by the toilet to have better access to the bathroom. I have been looking at pictures and posts and I know I have a vent pipe in the outside corner behind the toilet so it has to stay. Since it's just the two of us we can pull the accordian door shutting off the bathroom area from the living room when the bathroom is in use thus eleminating the need for the sliding bathroom side door. I looked at the wall from a support prospective and I believe I can take out part of the wall, reattach the door jam to what is left of the wall by the vent pipe and still have some support from the jam. I wonder though if the railing that the bedroom accordian door slides in is a cross support. Has anyone ever done this before? Can you please send me instuctions or links if you have. Also what is the best thing to cut the wall with and what kind/length of rivets do I use to attach the jam back to the ceiling and wall? Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:44 PM   #2
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Hi Sally

I have a 1976 center bath, so not sure if your walls are like mine.

The walls are removed by removing screws and drilling out rivets. Once the screws are removed and rivets are drilled out, the hall panel by the stool in my trailer was still held in the corner molding by clips over the panel that jam the panel inside the corner molding groove. I used a mallet and held the panel while I lovingly tapped on the channel with a putty knife jammed between the panel and the track. I started at the top and worked my way down.

This is the corner channel.
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This is the panel clip.
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It's one of those deals that go in easy and come out hard.

I'll post pictures of it all.

View from hall looking back:

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View from bedroom:

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Sorry for the warped picture but my camera only takes a half picture and I stitched the two together with a panorama program. My walls are really straight:-)

The picture shows the bathroom with the toilet removed and sitting in the bedroom area. I have both wall panels removed because I'm replacing the bedroom wall panel, and I'm leaving the hall wall panel off as you wish to do.

Gary
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:44 PM   #3
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Center Bath Wall Options

Sally:

Removal of the small wall creates a bunch more space.

Cocking the toilet slightly counterclockwise creates additional useable space.

Below is a picture of the end wall after removing the rearward section of wall segment adjacent to the toilet.



Below - note the angle braces I added to strengthen the end wall since I removed the slide for the door.




Installed the following piece of wood to cover up the area in front of the vent pipe.



Removed the sliding door - never used it - a lot of weight.
Painted the wall behind the door.




Below shows the toilet cocked about 15 degrees.

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Old 09-21-2010, 07:56 PM   #4
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way to go! yahoooo

hey, I had a 85 with center bath and was just about to do what you two are doing now. good plan. I found a center bath 95 that had the toilet on one side and the shower on the other, utilizing the hall passageway as part of the total bath floor space-has pocket doors fore and aft. BUT here is the thing-AS put the toilet in at a relatively SMALL ANGLE from parallel to the axis of the trailer frame-NOT ENOUGH! I replaced the 95 toilet with the thetford unit just like in the photos above, and turned it even more than the original. I placed it where it was supposed to go, then I sat on it and turned it until I felt really comfortable. I wish I had measured b4 and after degrees, but didn't. So, my only advice is to try out the positioning of the toilet to ensure it fits ya! Especially, if you were having a hard time in the orig small space! (don't we all? except for rubber man and tiny tim). great modification-you will not be sorry.
ol' bill
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:26 AM   #5
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1983 31' Excella
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Great advice from everyone. The toilet definetly needs to be cocked at an angle. RV designers must have be a skinny bunch back when these bathrooms were designed. I will definitely use the board at the end of the wall idea. It will be a great place to add a hook for hanging just like in the picture. I found a very tall toilet yesterday that is made by Dometic. It's a model SC310. Anyone used a Dometic before? When I put it in are there studs that come up through the floor like in a house that you bolt it to? If so, how do I install new ones to match the toilet angle? I want to do this right because I want to keep this trailer for a LONG time. I've already put down new carpet and lino and I'm starting in on the harder stuff now so look for lots more requests for help. Oh, how do you work on the top of these things without killing yourselves? I tried to mess with the stuck antenna and had the ladder tip with me. I was left hanging on an antenna bracket and trying to straighten the ladder up with my feet. Scared the putty out of me and I have been afraid to try to get on a ladder and work on it ever since. I need to caulk around all the vents and check the top but I'm totally terrified. Do you use scaffolding or something like that to get on top? Thanks again everyone for your input.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:17 AM   #6
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Sally:

Scaffolding works, but if you have a stout ladder and lean it up against the awning (far enough out that it does not scratch the sides) it is fairly stable. Make sure you only step on areas supported by ribs - they are identified by the rivet lines. I usually take a small piece of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood up on top with me to "spread the load" - put down an old piece of carpet on the roof if you are concerned about scratching.

Regarding the toilet - there are a two "hidden" bolts that hold the original toilet down - look for a small cover in the seat area (about 1" in diameter) and access one bolt with a small socket with a long extension - the other bolt is behind the foot valve (I think) - to the right as you are looking at it. After removing the old toilet the base is secured with screws and is also rotatable. You will need a new ring gasket for the new toilet replacement.

See this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...let-53545.html

You and your husband may want to "try a toilet on for size" at a Camping World (or other such establishment) - it's possible to go "too tall" on the toilet size.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:39 AM   #7
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Too tall... Didn't think of that. Well, maybe for me but probably not the hubby. Right now I have a mental picture of him sitting on the throne in the aisle of the store and small children running screaming. I guess I'll give the roof another try this weekend. Maybe toss a rope over the I-beam of the carport and tie myself off just in case. The plywood sounds like a good idea as well. If I make it up there I may see how good I am at removing the A/C cover and cleaning out the dirt dobbers. I've seen them flying in and out, and when you try to turn the AC on it sounds like the motor is frozen (it was working fine). Flipped it off immediately so I didn't burn anything up and I was getting ready to put it in the shop to have it looked at. But, you have given me new hope so I'll give it one more try.
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:54 AM   #8
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How I got on roof:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f478...oof-66345.html


Gary
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 09-22-2010, 11:41 AM   #9
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1983 31' Excella
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Posts: 11
Splitrock, I just read that thread. 'Bout peed my pants. I think I'll send it to the shop after reading all that. I don't have all the creative stuff available to use to break my fall on the way down. I hate to admit I can't do it, but... Anyway, thanks so much for opening my eyes. I remember what happend that time I decided to rub the swing set slide with wax paper to keep my kids bottom from sticking. She shot about 15 feet off the end of slide doing a good 25 m.p.h. before she hit the side of the house. She has never forgiven me for that. Had to rub the slide with sand to get the wax off before she would get on it again. That was 30 years ago and I'm too old to go through same experience myself.
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:58 PM   #10
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Hi Sally,

I figure I only paid double what the top work would have cost if I'da taken it to a shop. I know it cost me $500 to save $50 on the air conditioner alone. The purple fingernail is almost off too. I'll grieve losing another reminder of that day.

But it was soooooo much FUN! slippin around on that roof in the July sun:-)

Remember the movie, Cat On A Hot Tin Roof? This was puss gut on a hot aluminum roof.

Gary
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Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...g?t=1278182564
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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