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Old 08-26-2010, 05:38 PM   #1
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1966 22' Safari
1951 18' Clipper
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Seam sealing from the inside?

Hello all,
In the midst of my restro on a 51 Clipper. Currently the interior skins are all out and I am getting ready for wiring and insulation. It has occured to me that the exterior skins when lapped and riveted create two different seams........one on the outside and another on the inside. With all the interior seams now exposed, I should take the time and do some sort of seam sealing to them. Could not hurt ....right? At close observation, it appears that they were not sealed on the inside from the factory. I could get as sloppy as I want to as you will never see it once the insulation goes in. What are your thoughts and what would you recommend?
Thanks
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:47 PM   #2
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I'm thinking of using spray rubberized undercoating on my inside seams, the factory riveting was pretty sloppy in places so I think $20 of spray can't hurt.
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Old 08-26-2010, 06:55 PM   #3
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We used a high adhesive foil sealer tape on all our inside rivit seams prior to insulating. I'll look for the brand name and get back with you. Here are a couple of photos.
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:11 PM   #4
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In the home heating industry there is a foil tape that is used and I often find that in time it fails.
If I had my inside skins off I would trowel on a seam sealer. Maybe a polyurethane caulk or maybe duct sealer which can be purchased from a forced air heating duct supply house.
Al
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Old 08-26-2010, 07:25 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by truckasaurus View Post
I'm thinking of using spray rubberized undercoating on my inside seams, the factory riveting was pretty sloppy in places so I think $20 of spray can't hurt.
That's what I did with mine. I too figured it couldn't hurt.
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:55 PM   #6
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Vulkem 116 or similar should work great and last a long time. Around $6.50 a tube, cheap.
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Old 08-26-2010, 08:55 PM   #7
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inside seam sealing

Hello all again,
It seems (no pun intended) that the Canadians have it by 2:1. I can see no down side to inside seam sealing.........just a matter of chosing which product one should use..........tape or sealent. . Being the lazy SOG that I am, I might just chose both. Thank you for your input.
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Old 08-26-2010, 11:00 PM   #8
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Both tape and polyurethane caulk have a weakness - the surface they are being applied to. I had pockets of Vulkem between & under the taillights holding water that squirted like a clown flower when I was wedging the new floorboard in, freeze thaw cycles enlarged the area along the seams... Anyhow, some solvent scrub over the areas you're applying to to break the bacon grease and any other junk that could poison the adhesive bond.
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Old 08-27-2010, 05:14 AM   #9
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I would go to an auto body shop paint supplier, one that the body shops use, and get some seam sealer that brushes on. Body shops have used it forever, it will stop leaks and will last. Have you ever tried to remove some while working on a car, once it dries it is there forever.
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Old 08-27-2010, 08:48 AM   #10
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We used vulkem on all of the interior seams per Colin Hyde, who does vintage trailer restoration.
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Old 08-27-2010, 09:06 AM   #11
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Thin Vulcum down with mineral spirits so that it will wick and paint it on with a brush
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Old 02-26-2013, 06:48 AM   #12
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We are getting close to sealing the inside skins as well. Has anyone used something like "Flex Seal". Seems like it might work...


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Old 08-25-2015, 02:55 PM   #13
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I was recommended Pro Flex Sealent. Apparently made for the RV industry. Anyone have experience with that?
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:22 PM   #14
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Seam sealing

Try the product Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. It is available at most marine stores and wicks into cracks and seam/panel overlaps until the cracks are sealed. You can also use this on rivets to seal them. It is similar to automotive sealer but resistant to water intrusion. Then overlay seams with Vulkem or Acryl-R. No more leaks! Ed
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