Seam sealing from the inside?

[ironheadxlch]

Hello all,
In the midst of my restro on a 51 Clipper. Currently the interior skins are all out and I am getting ready for wiring and insulation. It has occured to me that the exterior skins when lapped and riveted create two different seams........one on the outside and another on the inside. With all the interior seams now exposed, I should take the time and do some sort of seam sealing to them. Could not hurt ....right? At close observation, it appears that they were not sealed on the inside from the factory. I could get as sloppy as I want to as you will never see it once the insulation goes in. What are your thoughts and what would you recommend?
Thanks

[truckasaurus]

I'm thinking of using spray rubberized undercoating on my inside seams, the factory riveting was pretty sloppy in places so I think $20 of spray can't hurt.

[PRATTMAN]

We used a high adhesive foil sealer tape on all our inside rivit seams prior to insulating. I'll look for the brand name and get back with you. Here are a couple of photos.

[BigAl]

In the home heating industry there is a foil tape that is used and I often find that in time it fails.
If I had my inside skins off I would trowel on a seam sealer. Maybe a polyurethane caulk or maybe duct sealer which can be purchased from a forced air heating duct supply house.
Al

[nmbosa]

Originally Posted by truckasaurus

I'm thinking of using spray rubberized undercoating on my inside seams, the factory riveting was pretty sloppy in places so I think $20 of spray can't hurt.

That's what I did with mine. I too figured it couldn't hurt.

[r carl]

Vulkem 116 or similar should work great and last a long time. Around $6.50 a tube, cheap.

[ironheadxlch]

Hello all again,
It seems (no pun intended) that the Canadians have it by 2:1. I can see no down side to inside seam sealing.........just a matter of chosing which product one should use..........tape or sealent. . Being the lazy SOG that I am, I might just chose both. Thank you for your input.
Regards
Ironheadxlch

[Wabbiteer]

Both tape and polyurethane caulk have a weakness - the surface they are being applied to. I had pockets of Vulkem between & under the taillights holding water that squirted like a clown flower when I was wedging the new floorboard in, freeze thaw cycles enlarged the area along the seams... Anyhow, some solvent scrub over the areas you're applying to to break the bacon grease and any other junk that could poison the adhesive bond.

[68 TWind]

I would go to an auto body shop paint supplier, one that the body shops use, and get some seam sealer that brushes on. Body shops have used it forever, it will stop leaks and will last. Have you ever tried to remove some while working on a car, once it dries it is there forever.

[2vets]

We used vulkem on all of the interior seams per Colin Hyde, who does vintage trailer restoration.

[Aerowood]

Thin Vulcum down with mineral spirits so that it will wick and paint it on with a brush

[Roadrunner]

We are getting close to sealing the inside skins as well. Has anyone used something like "Flex Seal". Seems like it might work...


Bob
Indiana, PA
TAC PA-5
WBCCI 4871

[Marufaru]

I was recommended Pro Flex Sealent. Apparently made for the RV industry. Anyone have experience with that?

[BIGED52]

Try the product Captain Tolleys Creeping Crack Cure. It is available at most marine stores and wicks into cracks and seam/panel overlaps until the cracks are sealed. You can also use this on rivets to seal them. It is similar to automotive sealer but resistant to water intrusion. Then overlay seams with Vulkem or Acryl-R. No more leaks! Ed

[Airwave503]

Capt' Tolley is like water and comes in a tiny bottle. Great for top down sealing of tiny cracks and around rivets but I don't know how it would work upside down on interior seams. I used and liked Acryl-R, because it's the right consistency to stick upside down but still seep into the seams. I shy'd away from Vulkem because of all the warnings to never use it indoors.

[r carl]

Originally Posted by Airwave503

I shy'd away from Vulkem because of all the warnings to never use it indoors.

That means its great stuff that will last.

[Cardinal283]

Why can't you use Vulkem indoors? Does it cause unwanted side effects? Drowsiness, nausea, irritability, lose stools, anal leakage, spontaneous combustion?

[mikextr]

@Cardinal 283- I began to worry after your comment about spontaneous combustion so I checked the MSDS Vulcem 116 and found that spontaneous combustion is not listed as a known side effect. Thank goodness. I will continue using it but will refrain from eating, snorting, and using it as sunscreen. This is from section 2 of the Vulcem 116 MSDS:

"SECTION 2 - HAZARDS IDENTIFICATION
Emergency Overview
Gray. Non-sag gunnable paste. May cause slight irritation to the respiratory system. May cause nausea,
headaches, and dizziness. May cause drowsiness, weakness, and fatigue. May cause allergic respiratory
sensitization. Leave area to breathe fresh air. Avoid further overexposure. If symptoms persist, get medical
attention. Move to fresh air. If required, artificial respiration or administration of oxygen can be performed by
trained personnel.
Acute Potential Health Effects/ Routes of Entry
Inhalation : May cause slight irritation to the respiratory system. May cause nausea, headaches, and
dizziness. May cause drowsiness, weakness, and fatigue. May cause allergic respiratory
sensitization.
Eyes : Direct contact may cause mild irritation.
Ingestion : May cause gastrointestinal irritation, nausea, and vomiting.
Skin : May cause sensitization resulting in irritation, itching and redness.
Aggravated Medical Conditions
Pre-existing eye, skin and respiratory disorders may be aggravated by exposure.
Chronic Health Effects
Overexposure may cause dermatitis, asthma, skin and respiratory sensitization and decreased lung function.
Prolonged or repeated contact/exposure to aromatic petroleum distillates may cause defatting, drying, and
irritation of the skin, dermatitis, and central nervous system (CNS) effects. Inhalation of crystalline silica (quartz)
can cause cancer based on animal data, and IARC concludes sufficient evidence in humans (Group 1).
Prolonged and repeated overexposure to free crystalline silica dust above the TLV level may cause scarring of
the lungs with cough and shortness of breath. A delayed lung injury, silicosis may result from breathing free
silica. Diphenylmethane diisocyanate (methylene bisphenyl isocyanate) caused an increased incidence of lung
tumors in experimental animals following long term inhalation at concentrations in excess of 100 times the
exposure limit. Fillers are encapsulated and not expected to be released from product under normal conditions
of use.
Target Organs: Skin, Eye, Ingestion, Lung"

[bikeukeguy]

Wow another early Clipper. I have a 1952. I am restoring her. Just put on a bunch of new exterior panels. I will be using Trempro 635. Do it a the end of a work session with all opening open. What are you using for insulation. I am using Reflectictix next to the outer skin and low R value, thin, cut in half. Another Colin Hyde suggestion. I like the Aerowood suggestion of thinning it. It is a might hard to wrangle and smooth out.
Mine had a steel inner skin, destroyed the rib to floor C Channel. Poor baby was a bit abused by the last few tenants.
Also, no inner seam sealant.
I am using acetone and a green light grit scrub pad and or heavier to prep the surface.
DO NOT get it on the outer skin.
Have fun as these are really stunning when polished. See Aerowood in Vintage Kin. Totally awesome.

[PaulnGina]

I would not hesitate using Eternabond Alumibond sealant tape over those seams. From what I've seen of using it on the roof seams of our Avion, it should last forever on those inside seams.