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Old 04-11-2016, 06:02 AM   #15
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"Tell me more about Centramatic balancers."


They work well






Bob
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Old 04-11-2016, 07:32 AM   #16
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My '06 19CCD had 2 rivets that were habitually missing. I would replace them, only to have them pop again after a day or 2 of traveling. After replacing the Marathon tires with 16" LT tires and adding Centramatic balancers, I go the popping down to a single rivet, just above and to the right of the door.

I actually used mini pad's method and added several more rivets, equally spaced to either side of the offender. Never lost another!!!!
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:05 PM   #17
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This may be a dumb question, but does one need to put the centramatic Balancers on both the trailer and the tow vehicle - or just the trailer?
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Old 04-11-2016, 02:51 PM   #18
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NO large windows on Commercial Jets?

pkm123, myself and others are finding the same rivets are chronic 'poppers'.

I think this has more to do with the stresses of the shell onto the frame that may not be as stiff as one could design and flexes. I had a Chevrolet that was having tires rotated. The mechanic needed something I had kept in the glove box and opened the door. It opened but... it would not close as the frame obviously flexed in that area. Once the car was back on the ground, the door would close.

With the large windows and rubber gaskets to seal the 'frame' on these newer Airstream models... this is already weakening the shell. They do not have large windows on commercial aircraft... maybe there is a relationship of window and flexible shell movement and the DOOR not metal to metal when closed.

When I brought our NEW 2014 home, I knew on the hinge side of the door when there was vibration against the door frame. This time, the genius I am... took duct tape and cut strips where the hinges vibrated against the frame of the door. Some strips of duct tape were moved and being worn through... The duct tape was visibly moved at the top and lower hinges where the screen door hinges. Now popped rivets on the hinge side of the door. Whack a Mole? Now the door?

Try it at home. Apply some duct tape where the screen door hinge presses against the door frame. Top and lower hinges. Just keep an eye on the duct tape surface. Of course, the middle duct tape had no wear, with no metal to metal contact there.

I tow with a 2014 Tundra and an Equalizer hitch. I have the 18" LTX Michelins on the truck since new. Again we find ourselves doing the 'whack a mole' with your wallet open... wide. Running the factory Marathons until this weeks conversion to 16" wheels and LTX tires. Now... centramatic balancers? Maybe the Dexter Axles are up to no good, as well.

I have never had an issue with the exterior rivets.

When several owners ADDED some pop rivets on the curved interior section to the right of the door, obviously a higher stress area, the rivet popping count became zero. My left side of the trailer on the curve has NO popped rivets... as of this second of this minute of this hour, etc.. The Airstream rivet popping seems to prefer the consistent spacing for 'eye appeal'. Maybe throw an Engineer out in the production line and add a couple rivets where there are issues like ours.

I will experiment with some shiny philips head sheet metal screws that fit snug into the popping culprit rivets and see what happens. At the worst... I can put a sticker over the spot to hide my gross negligence on pop rivet analysis. I am also curious as to the popped rivets in areas I cannot complain about.
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Old 04-11-2016, 03:41 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjwoods1 View Post
This may be a dumb question, but does one need to put the centramatic Balancers on both the trailer and the tow vehicle - or just the trailer?
The only dumb question is the one you don't ask. The answer is either/or or possibly neither/nor. We have been using Centramatics on out two 25FB's for about 80,000. For most of those miles our tow vehicles did not have Centramatics. About a year ago, we added Centramatics to our 2011 Silverado 3500 to see if this would improve tire wear. We still tow our Airstream with our 2005 Suburban 2500 without Centramatics.

The Centramatics have always worked very well for tire wear on the Airstreams. As far as on the tow vehicle, the jury is still out.

Brian
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Old 04-11-2016, 05:56 PM   #20
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Just as a note on the Centramatics. I stopped by their main office a few weeks ago when I bought a set for my 2015 28FC. After a tour of the plant, I asked about putting them on my truck, a 2015 F150. They indicated that the did not make any for the F150 or I believe any 1/2 ton trucks at this time. They do have them for most of the 3/4 ton trucks and up.

Chuck
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Old 04-11-2016, 06:23 PM   #21
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I tow a.25 year old 34' classic with 15" tires inflated hard. Seldom balance the tires.
I'm certain I'm overloaded by a thousand pounds.
I use 1200 pound spring bars cranked up tight.
I drive 55-60 and have never earned a loose or popped rivet externally.... I did loose a pop rivet in the shower......
perhaps my neglect and abuse is a call to return more rivets per inch per the narrow body days and to slow down a bit?
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Old 04-12-2016, 07:55 AM   #22
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawas"
 
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Question

"This may be a dumb question, but does one need to put the centramatic Balancers on both the trailer and the tow vehicle - or just the trailer?
Yesterday 08:32 AM"

Well.....I thought I'd try them on the Burb as well the AS, but...they don't make them for the Burb.

I realized after the fact that it's really a bit redundant.....it's pretty easy to determine when the TV wheels need attention, your riding in it after-all.
"Road Force" balance has worked very well for the TV over the years.

Bob
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Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
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Old 04-13-2016, 11:31 PM   #23
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Bob, where did you get your Centramatic balancers for the !6" airstream wheels and how much did a set of 2 cost?
Thanks,
Ken
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Old 04-15-2016, 07:42 AM   #24
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Ken,

I ordered direct from Centramatic.

I don't think the 16" wheel would make any difference as long as the bolt pattern & offset is the same, give them,(Centramatic), a call to make sure, 800-523-8473.

POI....I still have the stock Alcoa 15" wheels & ........ST's.


This is how mine are listed on the invoice....

200221 Set (4ea)
AJP-10"
204 Special Airstream
$199.00

Bob
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“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
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Sandra wanted to go to Cleveland on vacation,
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Old 04-15-2016, 10:43 PM   #25
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Thanks for your reply Bob. Are you planning on going to 16" wheels and tires at some point? I will give Centramatic a call. I can't tell from your invoice what a ballpark figure for 2 balancers are. I love your Starbucks quote, by the way. I have pirated it a few times and it always gets a laugh.
Ken
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Old 04-16-2016, 07:40 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pkm123 View Post
Thanks for your reply Bob. Are you planning on going to 16" wheels and tires at some point? I will give Centramatic a call. I can't tell from your invoice what a ballpark figure for 2 balancers are. I love your Starbucks quote, by the way. I have pirated it a few times and it always gets a laugh.
Ken
Ken,

I'm not into.....



16" wheels.....no. I haven't tasted the kool-aid yet.

I'm on my second set of OMG no's ...when they time out I'll replace with E rated ST's.

Bob
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“After all these years the reason I continue to love Thanksgiving.....I still sit at the kids table.”
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:24 AM   #27
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A few years ago I noticed a couple, maybe 3, exterior rivets missing. I replaced them with olympics and have not noticed any further exterior ones missing. I also have replaced 1 or 2 interior ones but not since installing the centramatic balancers. Still we occasionally find a drawer or 2 open during travel but much less often since the centramatics. I suppose it's in direct proportion to the miles on secondary and less then secondary roads we travel. Sometimes I will leave some unbreakable item on the counter only to be suprised when I find it still there after driving. Sometimes it's not.
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Old 05-25-2016, 02:08 PM   #28
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Sheet Metal Screw does the job... maybe?

My popped rivet and one ready to pop to the right of the door frame... was 'stabilized' by using whatever I could find laying within my tool box.

I found a steel metal screw that matches the aluminum very well. Long enough to get some grip into the frame, maybe 5/16". It was a philips head and the interesting part is the head of the screw had an edge that resembled a small washer, but was a part of the screw head.

I used my battery hand held drill and careful drove the screw into the frame and when friction said 'I have had enough' it is snug and flush. After 900 miles with my 16" Michelin replacement... the screw is holding. The almost popped rivet below the one I replaced with a sheet metal screw now is 'flush' and appears to be stable.

I looked for MORE of these sheet metal screws with the odd 'head' in my tool box and my 150 pounds of bolts and washers with no luck. I do not want to remove it and take it to a hardware store, so will keep looking for something similar.

I tossed my rivet tool and pop rivets away decades ago. Although not 'factory', I am going to try using sheet metal screws that are close to what is working at the moment.

My philosophy is if the original rivets are not holding... try something else that might.

This might work and save other factory rivets from failing especially on those rivets along the curved sides of the interior than tend to pop.

Why repeat the same thing over and over when either a hammer or a screwdriver might do the job? In this case the screwdriver and sheet metal screw worked. Try finding it... in our Airstream. You would not know.
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