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Old 02-16-2010, 02:16 PM   #21
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1976 29' Ambassador
Madison , Officially SD but are traveling full time.
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Installing insert nosing

Thanks for your ideas. I tried to use both a thin 1" scraper and a small screw driver to get the nosing into the channel. I may lack a certain finesse because both of them damaged the edge of the plastic nosing when I tried to insert it into the aluminum moulding channel. The material I got is too rigid. It resists flexing in the middle and if it does flex, it flexes inward defeating my attempts to slip the edge into the channel.

I like the idea of using another kind of material but I have $60 of this stuff and don't want to throw it away. If I find a solution (other than tearing out the cabinets) I will post it for anyone else who attempts to do this.
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Old 02-16-2010, 03:56 PM   #22
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1976 Argosy 24
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[QUOTE=Eagle & Bear;810308]Thanks for your ideas. I tried to use both a thin 1" scraper and a small screw driver to get the nosing into the channel. I may lack a certain finesse because both of them damaged the edge of the plastic nosing when I tried to insert it into the aluminum moulding channel. The material I got is too rigid. It resists flexing in the middle and if it does flex, it flexes inward defeating my attempts to slip the edge into the channel.

I like the idea of using another kind of material but I have $60 of this stuff and don't want to throw it away. If I find a solution (other than tearing out the cabinets) I will post it for anyone else who attempts to do this.[/QUOTE

That's one reason I like that blind material. Most places you can just slip it into the end of the channel and feed it around, but if you can't get to the end, you just flex it in the middle and pop it in. A little help with a dull paring knife might be needed to help guide it but it goes in pretty easily. And if I decide to change the colors in the trailer, it is very easy and inexpensive to just replace it to match. I even put it in the channel over the locker above the front windows!
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:47 PM   #23
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I wonder if you heat the trim with a hair dryer if it would make it any easier? Just a thought.
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Old 02-16-2010, 07:27 PM   #24
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I was able to feed the 16 foot piece through after shaving the back of the plastic insert and spraying silicon in the chanel. Had to do a push pull but it is now installed. Next is the bath area.
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Old 03-03-2010, 05:15 AM   #25
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1974 27' Overlander
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Isadora,

Where did you get the mini blind material? That sounds like the best idea that I have hear.

Thanks, Jay.
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:15 AM   #26
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1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eagle & Bear View Post
I was able to feed the 16 foot piece through after shaving the back of the plastic insert and spraying silicon in the chanel. Had to do a push pull but it is now installed. Next is the bath area.
Eagle & Bear,

Would you please describe how you "shaved the back"?
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Old 03-03-2010, 09:25 AM   #27
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Isadora,

Where did you get the mini blind material? That sounds like the best idea that I have hear.

Thanks, Jay.
I bought it at a local specialty store, Mr C's, where they sell blinds and window dressings. You can probably buy it anywhere they sell custom vertical blinds, it comes in a 16' strip and is usually sold to custom fit any window size or as replacement strips. I cut it into narrow strips with a pair of scissors after I had carefully marked out the width on the back with a permanent marker.
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Old 07-03-2012, 09:02 AM   #28
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1975 27' Overlander
selah , Washington
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painting bathroom trim

I did paint some of the blue exterior trim with Krylon Fusion in "Buttercream". It fit perfectly, looks great and was bendable for the places you can't slide it in the end.
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Old 03-22-2013, 10:00 AM   #29
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1975 31' Sovereign
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My 1975 has what appears to be similar pieces around the curtain canopy.I used strips of formica.I think it comes in 2 thicknesses,and I used the thinnest. It went around the curved corners easily.
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