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Old 05-05-2009, 01:10 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by 76sovereign View Post
I meant to say I might paint the NEW trim a color that would match my interior with KRYLON FUSION paint and was wondering if it would hold.
It should hold ok, but to be safe, I would suggest a primer first.

Andy
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Old 02-14-2010, 07:36 PM   #16
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Installing insert nosing

I bought over $60 of theinsert nosing. Now I find out that it cannot be snapped into place. There is no way to slide the insert nosing into place when both ends of the aluminum trim butt up against the cabinetry. What is the trick?
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:53 PM   #17
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I bought over $60 of theinsert nosing. Now I find out that it cannot be snapped into place. There is no way to slide the insert nosing into place when both ends of the aluminum trim butt up against the cabinetry. What is the trick?
The trick was how Airstream assembled the trailer.

Unless you want a ton and a half of work, the installation can be easily done.

Take out a rivet from one end.

Lube the molding with silicone spray.

Slide the insert all the way in to the other end.

Cut the insert so that it ends with the end of the molding.

Push the filled molding back in place.

Install one small pop rivet thru the insert, thru the molding and into the cabinet.

It's that or about 12 to 15 hours of work, at least, but then you will be confronted with other problems.

Chose the end that will be least seen.

Andy
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Old 02-15-2010, 01:13 PM   #18
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My trailer is a 1976 with a rear bath. The moulding runs along the sink and counter just under the rear window and then bends for a 2' run toward the front. It abutts the cabinets on both ends. I will have to remove 6 rivits on the long arm (4.5') of the moulding to get it out far enough to insert the plastic trim. My concern is that I might collapse the channels on the moulding when I bend it. If I do get the plastic in place I will only be able to set one rivit on the end if I want it to look like a clean restoration. I could glue the moulding in place but it looks like the rivits play a role in maintaining the structural integrity of the bath area.
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Old 02-15-2010, 02:20 PM   #19
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When I bought my 1976 Sovereign in 2000 the tan insert trim in the front and rear was yellow and dirty and it looked bad. As Andy said over time this stuff gets hard and brittle so taking it out was not a real problem but I could not find any replacement. This was before the Airforum so I was pretty much on my own. We took the trailer on a trip in 2001 and stopped for the night in Tucson AZ. I had heard of Oasis RV so we made at stop there before we left. They had a fairly extensive Airstream parts area and had the blue trim molding for the outside and the tan insert trim molding for the inside. The outside molding is fairly easy to install but the inside is not flexible so one of the service guys at Oasis RV gave me some tips on installing the inside insert trim. Take you time and layout the insert trim to the length you need leaving about a foot or so extra Then starting at one end insert the bottom grove on the insert trim in to the groove on the aluminum molding on the wall.for just a few inches.Leave a couple of inches of the nose trim sticking out past the aluminum molding on the wall. Then with a small screw driver press the groove at the top of the insert trim in to the top grove on the aluminum molding and continue this process around to the other end. It will work but will take some time and patience. One tip leave about and inch of nose trim sticking out of each end for a while after you have the trim installed. This stuff will shrink after it is installed and produce a small space at each end with no trim. I did not remove the aluminum molding from the wall.

As I said this was in 2001, so the type of nose trim available today might not work out the same way.

Don
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Old 02-15-2010, 03:08 PM   #20
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I replaced my insert nosing with vertical blind material, comes in 16 ft stips for about $3 a strip, cut it into 1" wide strips and slipped it into the aluminum channel. It comes in about a hundred colors. I did the whole trailer for less than $10.
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Old 02-16-2010, 03:16 PM   #21
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Installing insert nosing

Thanks for your ideas. I tried to use both a thin 1" scraper and a small screw driver to get the nosing into the channel. I may lack a certain finesse because both of them damaged the edge of the plastic nosing when I tried to insert it into the aluminum moulding channel. The material I got is too rigid. It resists flexing in the middle and if it does flex, it flexes inward defeating my attempts to slip the edge into the channel.

I like the idea of using another kind of material but I have $60 of this stuff and don't want to throw it away. If I find a solution (other than tearing out the cabinets) I will post it for anyone else who attempts to do this.
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Old 02-16-2010, 04:56 PM   #22
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[QUOTE=Eagle & Bear;810308]Thanks for your ideas. I tried to use both a thin 1" scraper and a small screw driver to get the nosing into the channel. I may lack a certain finesse because both of them damaged the edge of the plastic nosing when I tried to insert it into the aluminum moulding channel. The material I got is too rigid. It resists flexing in the middle and if it does flex, it flexes inward defeating my attempts to slip the edge into the channel.

I like the idea of using another kind of material but I have $60 of this stuff and don't want to throw it away. If I find a solution (other than tearing out the cabinets) I will post it for anyone else who attempts to do this.[/QUOTE

That's one reason I like that blind material. Most places you can just slip it into the end of the channel and feed it around, but if you can't get to the end, you just flex it in the middle and pop it in. A little help with a dull paring knife might be needed to help guide it but it goes in pretty easily. And if I decide to change the colors in the trailer, it is very easy and inexpensive to just replace it to match. I even put it in the channel over the locker above the front windows!
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Old 02-16-2010, 05:47 PM   #23
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I wonder if you heat the trim with a hair dryer if it would make it any easier? Just a thought.
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:27 PM   #24
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I was able to feed the 16 foot piece through after shaving the back of the plastic insert and spraying silicon in the chanel. Had to do a push pull but it is now installed. Next is the bath area.
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Old 03-03-2010, 06:15 AM   #25
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Isadora,

Where did you get the mini blind material? That sounds like the best idea that I have hear.

Thanks, Jay.
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:15 AM   #26
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I was able to feed the 16 foot piece through after shaving the back of the plastic insert and spraying silicon in the chanel. Had to do a push pull but it is now installed. Next is the bath area.
Eagle & Bear,

Would you please describe how you "shaved the back"?
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Old 03-03-2010, 10:25 AM   #27
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Isadora,

Where did you get the mini blind material? That sounds like the best idea that I have hear.

Thanks, Jay.
I bought it at a local specialty store, Mr C's, where they sell blinds and window dressings. You can probably buy it anywhere they sell custom vertical blinds, it comes in a 16' strip and is usually sold to custom fit any window size or as replacement strips. I cut it into narrow strips with a pair of scissors after I had carefully marked out the width on the back with a permanent marker.
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Old 07-03-2012, 10:02 AM   #28
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painting bathroom trim

I did paint some of the blue exterior trim with Krylon Fusion in "Buttercream". It fit perfectly, looks great and was bendable for the places you can't slide it in the end.
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