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Old 01-18-2013, 06:17 PM   #43
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I spoke with a couple of companies. They are not really set up to sell to individuals Here is a list of companies that will sell the sheet veneers with the paper backing;


NameLinkPhone Number Cabinetparts.com
www.cabinetparts.com800 857 8721Capital City Lumber
www.capitalcitylumber.com800 244 6492Constantines
www.constantines.com800 443 9667Custom Service Hardware
www.cshardware.com800 882 0009Homecraft Veneer
www.homecraftveneer.com800 796 6348Outwater Industries
www.outwater.com800 631 8375Rockler
www.rockler.com800 279 4441VeneerSupplies.com
www.veneersupplies.com
888 598 3633Woodcraft Supply
www.woodcraft.com800 225 1153Woodworkers Supply
www.woodworker.com800 645 9292I am not endorsing any of them, just a list I found that might help.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:19 PM   #44
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We've had good luck with the birch ply we buy at the local independent hardware store as far as fitting into the original channel. I used to be able to buy two sided birch, but that place went out of business. Now I special order the two sided birch with only a few days' delay.
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Old 01-19-2013, 07:48 AM   #45
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ALANSD - what kind of damage did the your veneer get? Is it discolored or is it bubbling away from the underlayment? Can you tell if the core is actual wood or is it pressboard/masonite type of stuff?
There is plywood beneath the veneer. The venner layer is cracking and pulled away from the plywood due the water leaking from above. It is restricted to one area that could be replaced with veneer about 2X2 feet or so. The box that covers the vent pipe that leaked, also needs it.

I have fixed the leak and bought a new mushroom type cap to go on the outside over the pipe.

I would have to pull out the overhead cabinet that runs from the bedroom thru into the bathroom, the wall behind the kitchen and more to repair this small area. I will post a picture.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:17 AM   #46
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I'd love to see a picture. Without seeing it, I wonder if it would be possible to inject some glue behind where it has pulled away and re-stick it to the wall. It would still need sanding and refinishing, but the wood would match.
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Old 01-20-2013, 12:34 AM   #47
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I've been making steady progress, mostly sanding, varnishing, sanding, varnishing, so not much to show. I did treat myself to a really nice, natural bristle brush. It's much smoother to use than the Chinese ones that come in a bag, and it sheds almost no hairs. Yay!

Clean air standards seem to have changed recently in California, so the formulas for finishes that I got when we started redoing the trailer aren't the same as the ones now. Sometimes the one I want can be hard to find. And sometimes I just plain grab the wrong can.

So I've read up and learned about traditional varnishes and urethanes, gloss and satin. Traditional spar varnishes (one "wrong" can I grabbed), are meant to go on sailboat spars that bend. Such varnishes are more flexible and less likely to crack in a collision with something hard. But they need renewal more frequently than the synthetic urethanes. The traditional varnishes apparently bond better with bare wood than the urethanes.

Satin finishes are more forgiving of imperfect surfaces. When you are doing your finishing inside an Airstream that is under construction, you don't have an entirely dust free environment. I think I'm keeping most of the dust off, but in any case, I'm far happier with the way the satin finish looks. I also learned that satin finishes are not glossy because of something added to the varnish. Regular stirring during the varnishing process keeps these evenly mixed. That would explain why the can of urethane I tried to use from last summer that had developed a dull crust produced glossy finish instead of the satin it was supposed to be. That can got retired.

I'm left with a can of traditional spar varnish (all I could find while the urethanes were being reformulated or something - the hardware store shelves were nearly bare) in a gloss (total oops on my part) and I have a can of urethane satin.

Rather than let the spar varnish go to waste, I'm using it as a base coat. That way I get the benefit of the deeper wood penetration and flexibility at a deep level. It also means that any dust it gathers during its interminable 24 hour drying time (even with the heater on out there) will be sanded away and smoothed over by later coats. Then I top coat with two or three coats of urethane satin clear (I think Helmsman is what they had in stock). It looks really nice when I don't miss any spots.

One of the other tradeoffs in the traditional varnish vs urethane tug of war is that traditional varnish will slightly dissolve the finished coat below it, no matter how long that coat has dried. This means no sanding between coats and that spot touch ups are possible. But then there's that 24 hour drying time...

Have I mentioned that finishing wood is finicky work?

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Old 01-20-2013, 08:49 AM   #48
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It is hard to beat urathanes for water resistance. Some varnishes are not that great and will stain and peal if exposed to water and sunlight for long periods of time. I think the two part epoxy varnishes are probably best but more of a pain to deal with. The satin does have some solids in it that are responsible for the satin finish. If you don't stir the can you will get glossy. I have never used the water based urathanes and don't plan to.

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Old 01-20-2013, 01:45 PM   #49
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I'm only using oil based finishes. I'm going for durability and ease of use. It's a camping trailer and I want to be able to use it without worrying about the finish.
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Old 01-21-2013, 02:14 AM   #50
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Spent today wrestling apart the upper cabinet above the closet so that I can replace the bottom of it with birch. Had to use a rubber mallet and wood block to get the front frame to slide sideways off the particle board. Those clips inside the channel are tenacious.

I did manage to get the new veneer in the closet trim. You can see that the "red birch" trim is darker than the yellow parts of the "red birch" plywood wall of the bathroom. The grayish brown wood closet doors just don't have the same glow. Don't know what we'll put in those instead - the veneer won't work, unfortunately.

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Old 01-21-2013, 12:20 PM   #51
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not trying to take over this thread but here are two shots, you can see the wood is pretty shot. this is looking up at the bottom of the overhead bin.
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Old 01-21-2013, 04:30 PM   #52
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Alan, I think that original veneer is beyond salvaging. What you do to fix it depends on how much other renovation you're thinking of, if any. It will be tricky to match the aged wood color. You can try to match with stains, but then the color will diverge over the years as the two wood treatments (original and stain) age differently.

The easiest fix would be to clear out the old wood, level the gaps with wood putty, sand and paint. You could try to match the walls or pick a contrasting color that accents the trailer. The next option would be to put on layer of veneer instead of paint. I haven't tried gluing veneer in place, but I believe the hot ticket is contact cement - very evenly applied and very carefully lined up and rolled out with a roller to get rid or air bubbles and lumps. It's a bit finicky, but it would look better than what you have now.

The most thorough solution is to take apart all affected cabinets and replace the damaged wood with new plywood. It might be tricky to track down matching plywood.

I wish you luck! Whatever you decide to do, start a thread about it and let us watch your progress! Meanwhile, I'm happy to share my thread for Q&A about woodworking. We're all learning here.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:19 AM   #53
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Thanks- the other wood is very nice, and I refinished it so its even prettier. I will try the veneer in place with brush on contact cement and see how it goes.Even if I piece it together it will look better than what I now have. Luckily its on a wall that doesn't get much attention anyway.
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Old 01-28-2013, 06:02 AM   #54
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Just a thought about countertop options-this is the route I took last year on my 1971 safari. I used roofing copper that I heat treated to dead soft, then ran over with my truck [ on some gravel, both sides]. to make the surface slightly bumpy. As you can see I too put a few strips of shiney copper in some of the edges. Wanted to do the vertical strips but couldnt figure how to without tearing the bottom apart. Good luck!---jim
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:25 AM   #55
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Just a thought about countertop options-this is the route I took last year on my 1971 safari. I used roofing copper that I heat treated to dead soft, then ran over with my truck [ on some gravel, both sides]. to make the surface slightly bumpy.
That is a really neat effect! What did you use to seal the copper?

A friend of mine just did the floor in his dining room with pennies, said it was cheaper than tile. He, like you, added a few odd items in - Canadian coins, the occasional nickel, etc.

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As you can see I too put a few strips of shiney copper in some of the edges. Wanted to do the vertical strips but couldnt figure how to without tearing the bottom apart. Good luck!---jim
The vertical strips come easily out the top once you take the counter off. The horizontal strips require disconnecting nearly everything.
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Old 01-29-2013, 01:17 AM   #56
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Wow - I love that copper effect - very cool!
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