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Old 01-08-2013, 11:47 PM   #29
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I am finishing it clear. With new VOC regulations going into effect in California, the finish has varied from one section to the next. We've been working on the interior for about two and a half years. Every time I go to work on a new wall, vanity, dinette or whatever project, the formulation I used the previous time seems to be unavailable. So now I have some gloss spar varnish - the only oil based varnish I could find in November and I'm using that as a base so that I can do a finish coat with the last of my last quart of oil based Varathane which is apparently no longer being sold here. That way, the final finishes will sort of match, I hope.
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Old 01-08-2013, 11:49 PM   #30
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Here's one more picture of the kitchen counter, with nearly all the birch veneer in place.

Click image for larger version

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Old 01-09-2013, 01:12 AM   #31
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The finished will come together with age. Color differences between panels will even out. Usually in a few months, not years.

It's gonna be great!

Inspired me. I just ordered some veneer samples.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:11 AM   #32
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Barbie...nice job! I am about to start in on interior restoration of our "74" Tradewind. When we did our "78" we left the dated dark fake wood. This time around we are thinking of going light. On your galley bulkhead wall, are you replacing the entire wall or covering it with veneer? What holds the walls into the extrusion? Thanks...love the pictures...

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Old 01-09-2013, 11:18 AM   #33
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Bob - last question first:

The walls are held into the extrusions by u-shaped spring clips that fit inside the channel and grab the wood with little inward facing barbs. It is possible to slide the wood sideways out of the channel but takes a surprising amount of force to pull it straight out of the channel.

Yes, we're replacing the entire galley bulkhead wall. The original is too chewed up to cover and the plywood looks better and is stronger. It's worth the work of dismantling everything, IMO.

When my husband cut the replacement walls for the bathroom, he pulled the original walls out and used them as a pattern. When I made the front dinette, I scribed the wood to fit the wall. With the closet side and kitchen bulkhead, I'm doing something different - scribing to fit the inside edge of the wall channel. I just don't have enough space working indoors in winter to work on large pieces of plywood inside a disassembled trailer interior.

We'll know within a couple of weeks whether my technique works or requires sanding and sailor's vocabulary in order to get it to fit. Stay tuned.
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Old 01-09-2013, 01:17 PM   #34
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Oops?

I could filter what I put on this thread and probably convince some people that I'm an experienced woodworker who knows what she's doing. But I think it's probably more helpful, not to mention more real, to show that this is really possible without knowing it all in advance.

Today's lesson is about wood veneer and wood color.

I didn't know squat about birch before we started working on the trailer. Then, looking at some other people's threads about projects, it looked like an available option for lightening up the inside of the trailer. Somebody mentioned that there was white birch and red birch and that the latter had some interesting figuring. That, my friends, was the extent of my research about birch.

Since then, I've discovered that some "white" birch is really pale, more like maple, which is lighter than I want as an overall effect in the trailer. I may or may not replace that upper kitchen cabinet end cap that glares whitely at me.

So when I went to order more veneer for the trim strips in the cabinet faces I was given the choice between "white birch" veneer and "red birch." I was at the lumber store and I din't have my record of what I ordered last time. I know I like the figuring on the wall next to our back dinette and that was "red birch" 1/8" plywood. So I ordered the "red birch" veneer.

It is red, very red. It is the color of the figuring that accents maybe 5% of the "red birch" ply, but it is "red" all over. It looks like cherry. It is not what I expected.

I could roll it back up and try to convince the lumber store to take it back. The problem with that is that I love the color. I don't want to let it out of my sight. Cherry is one of my very most favorite wood colors. My favorite loom is solid cherry. I love that warm auburn color. Birch that reminds me of cherry isn't going to go out of my life.

So now I am in the process of figuring out how to make "red" strips look like they belong in the trailer. Fortunately, I have enough of the "white" veneer left (which is apparently the color I ordered last time) to finish the horizontal trim to match what is already there. The vertical trim in the back room will be a "red" accent that will hopefully highlight the red figuring in the walls and cabinet doors.

If it really doesn't work, I'll redo it in "white" birch and use the rest of the red birch to make Christmas presents or something.

And when you see the inside of the Tin Pickle, or some other trailer sporting birch with darker areas, you can stroke your chin wisely and say "Hmm, red birch."
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:54 PM   #35
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are you gluing the veneer in place while the walls are standing? I ask because in my 66 I need on wall redone in ash veneer, that was leak damaged. I really don't want to take the wall out to redo the covering. Can I do it that way? What glue...contact cement brushed on?
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Old 01-18-2013, 03:41 PM   #36
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Did you have trouble finding the birch in the right thickness to fit in the existing aluminum wall moulding?

Perry
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:41 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
are you gluing the veneer in place while the walls are standing? I ask because in my 66 I need on wall redone in ash veneer, that was leak damaged. I really don't want to take the wall out to redo the covering. Can I do it that way? What glue...contact cement brushed on?
Webspinner is removing the walls and replacing the plastic covered particle board with Real Wood (TM).

If the veneer is not loose or rotting, you can repair stains w/o removal.

- Bart
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Old 01-18-2013, 04:52 PM   #38
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Did you have trouble finding the birch in the right thickness to fit in the existing aluminum wall moulding?

Perry
The stuff webspinner is using is .230 rather than .250; this seems work fine in the clips. It's hard to find .250 plywood these days... esp. if you need it w/ two good faces.

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Old 01-18-2013, 05:21 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by ALANSD View Post
are you gluing the veneer in place while the walls are standing? I ask because in my 66 I need on wall redone in ash veneer, that was leak damaged. I really don't want to take the wall out to redo the covering. Can I do it that way? What glue...contact cement brushed on?
Our veneer isn't going on the walls. It is only being used to replace the strips of trim in the aluminum framing. Since those aluminum framing extrusions have channels on each side to hold the original laminate trim strips, the veneer strips just slide into place.

For the walls, we are removing the old walls completely, matching the curve by tracing the old wall or scribing the curve inside the trailer, and then putting the new, real wood walls in place of the old ones.

ALANSD - what kind of damage did the your veneer get? Is it discolored or is it bubbling away from the underlayment? Can you tell if the core is actual wood or is it pressboard/masonite type of stuff?
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:39 PM   #40
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I'm guessing alansd means a bulkhead rather than an exterior wall.
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Old 01-18-2013, 05:43 PM   #41
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I'm guessing alansd means a bulkhead rather than an exterior wall.
That's what I meant, too. For any of those posts about plywood, insert "bulkhead" instead of "wall." I'm replacing the room dividers, not the inner skin of the trailer.
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Old 01-18-2013, 06:03 PM   #42
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Not to highjack this post but I might be able to add a little bit about the veneer and plywood. I am new to the forum but live in Oregon and work in sales for the 2nd largest hardwood plywood manufacturer in the States.
There are a number of companies that sell "raw" veneer in mainly 4 x 8 sheets that have a paper back glued to the wood. This is to make it flexible and also so it will not tear. I will speak with some friends in the business and see if they have any interest in selling (maybe listing their specie availability, etc) for the group. They normally roll the veneer in cardboard tubes and then UPS them to the customers. This is usually veneer that is about 1/42" thick before adding the paper back. As far as plywood, at most retail stores like HD, Lowe's and Menards in the US, the 1/4" (nominal) plywood is usually only stocked in a good 1 side. It can be made in any configuration and in specialty wholesalers is frequently stocked. Because of the size, it would be very difficult to figure out a way to sell plywood in this dimension and get it shipped. I will let the group know what I find out.
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