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oglerb · 12-26-2004, 08:53 AM

My headliner started falling/drooping this summer. I tried 3M spray adhesive with no success. Contacted Airstream and they indicated, if spray doesn't work, then replace the ceiling (very expensive) and there is no financial help from Airstream.
Came up with a fix that pleases me and my significant other. I used 3/4 inch # 8 screws with white screw covers every 1-2 feet. The ceiling looks good (l and the drooping is controlled.

Hope this helps others with the problem. I can send a photo, if PMed.

BigAl · 12-26-2004, 09:10 AM

I have one spot that sags slightly. Wondered how to go about getting adhesive behind headliner without doing any damage? How did you try?
I would like to see the photo.

oglerb · 12-26-2004, 09:30 AM

If your liner/ceiling goes like mine, you will go from a small bubble to almost all the ceiling drooping.

I was able to spray adhesive when the liner fell open (at seams). The sagging ceiling was held up by the smke detector, & the ceiling lights. That's why I realized that screws could work. With the screw covers, there is very little sagging and the ceiling looks like leather upholstery.

You could use a syringe to inject a glue, but that won't stop the sagging. That's why I did the screws.

I will post the photos in a few days as we just returned home from a camping trip to Florida and the trailer is in storage...

The design and materials used by Airstream in the mid '90s were just not good for the long run.

maxandgeorgia · 12-26-2004, 10:08 AM

I just lost my reply as I was writing it so I hope this doesn't post as a repeat. Our '94 has the same ceiling problem. Unable to work out a solution, we decided just to live with it. I give it "love pats," putting it all back in place every once in a while, but we'd like a permanent cure. We had considered using screws or white metal strips to secure it, but we didn't know what we would be screwing into (oops, wiring??) or out of (yikes! the roof??). Please give us very specific information if you are able about how you went about this, what you are screwing into to hold it, how you avoided problems, and any other relevant info. We have the droopies in the LR area and in the rear BR area. Did you repair in both sections of the trailer? Hope to hear from you soon. This might be Gypsy's New Year's Eve gift!

oglerb · 12-26-2004, 12:42 PM

I used 3/4" screws and did not worry about hitting vitals. I eyeballed locations to make both sides look even (1-2 feet apart). I believe the screws were anchored into the backing of the insullation. I unscrewed a few of the existing screws (those holding up the smoke detector) to make sure I wasn't going too deep. I did not screw the screws in with much force, just enough to hold up the drooping vinyl. The reason I posted, was to share, because no one had given me advice, other than spraying 3M adhesive (which did not work well). I dreamed up the solution and did the repairs while vacationing in FL. So far the repairs have worked well (that is, the repairs held up in rain cold and heat and my return trip).

As soon as I can get back to the trailer(in storage) I will post a photo or 2.

The replacement of the liner would cost thousands. I couldn't relax seeing the ceiling falling in. So I took a risk.

I did the fix in the living room area, a few screwsin the kitchen near the edges (4 inches from the edge) of the panel, and 6 or 8 in the bedroom area. A 1/2 or 3/4 inch screw should not pierce anything vital, but I did this at my own risk. If drooping bothers you, as it did me, then you might be ready to try the fix too. I found the screw covers at Home Depot and used the medium sized white covers....

quality parts · 12-26-2004, 07:23 PM

Ours is a 2001 Excella. I know this fix may not be for everyone but I just pulled the vinyl liner off and painted the aluminum ceiling with latex paint. It was not drooping but the vinyl smell was making my wife sick so I just removed all I could and rollered on a coat of primer and off-white wall paint. The vinyl smell is gone and we like the clean slightly textured look of the surface. It worked for me

maxandgeorgia · 12-27-2004, 06:08 PM

Does anyone on the forum have comments or suggestions about screwing the cushioned ceiling as described above? I know we don't have to worry about plumbing up high, but what about wiring runs? Advice, please, before I have a big "oops" mess!

thenewkid64 · 12-28-2004, 06:41 AM

The majority of the wires run in the center of the roof. There are drops to the outlets and 12 VDC fixtures, but the chance of hitting one of those is minimal. Figure you have a 3 inch space on either side of the roof vent running the length of the trailer that is a no screw zone and you should be fine. Also use VERY short screws. 1/2 inch or less. Then if you do hit a wire you should just push it out of the way. One other thing to remember is that the coach is wired before they install the insulation. This means most of the wires are nearer the exterior skin, not the interior.

j54mark · 12-28-2004, 07:14 AM

To clarify the above, the main wiring bundle runs the length of the coach, close to the street side edge of the roof vents.

I'd use pop rivets. A screw may well push aside a wire or two but there are a few small bundles branching off the main harness that a screw might just bite into. Even if the wiring insulation is not penetrated a screw has sharp edges that may well eat into the insulation over time and miles. You could still use screw caps with the rivets but you will likely need a small washer.

Mark

oglerb · 12-28-2004, 06:01 PM

It sure is good to have people who really know the Airstreams like the last 2 people. I attached three photos of the ceiling after the screws. It is hard to get a good shot as everything is white...

jasper2222 · 12-28-2004, 08:04 PM

I to, am in the same boat as the rest of you. I have 1996 25 ft excella. Just my 2 cents, but I would think that if you used pop rivits you would have to pull them so tight that you would get more of a quilted look (might be what one wants). Also you have to drill the holes for the rivets and you can hit something there.

I made a temporary fix by running some battens between the plastic retaining strips, but believe I will try the screws.

Obviously Airstream has created a problem for us consumers and are not doing much to remedy the situation. Advising us to use spray adhesive or replace is not much of a solution. With there expertise and engineers, one would think they could come up with a solution that would not require individuals to take the above steps, which certainly could be detrimental to their trailer and investment.

Anyway, that is just my thoughts.

thenewkid64 · 12-28-2004, 08:10 PM

I do remember when they started to do the padded ceilings. I felt that it was a bad design then and now there is proof. The reasoning they used was it allowed them to do a better job attaching the interior skin, and use more rivets, etc. It also was suppose to offer better insulating properties, I would say that at this point they either did not use the proper materials, or they needed to do an original installation that allowed for a lower cost R&R.

j54mark · 12-28-2004, 08:16 PM

Use of short screws will probably do no harm; as pointed out above, the wiring is generally above the insulation (except in the main bundle where it pretty much takes up the entire space). However, a drill bit need only just penetrate the skin. Even if it goes farther an 1/8th inch bit is not as likely to bite into wiring insulation as a screw would in the same place.

Has anyone ever taken theirs to an auto trim shop where they do headliners and upholstery? I should think they could do a replacement for considerably less than the factory.

Mark

thenewkid64 · 12-28-2004, 08:28 PM

The biggest issue is that the factory lines the ceiling before any of the interior is installed. The liner goes form the top of the windows to the top of the windows. This places it behind and above almost all of the upper and wall cabinets. To replace it completely requires removal of most of the interior.

oglerb · 12-29-2004, 08:39 AM

thenewkid64 is correct about having to remove the cabinets and all. That is why I went for what appears to be an acceptable & easier repair. I even used a couple of screws in the bedroom closets ceiling material to hold up the liner inside the cabinets (which was also drooping). By the way, be aware that after the drooping started one of my bedroom cabinets fell. I contacted Airstream for help with the ceiling and the cabinet. I got good advice on the cabinets (screw sizes #8 self tapping). I added 2 extra screws to each side cabinet. You would not believe how little holds the cabinet up (6 small screws)!

LeeC · 12-29-2004, 12:28 PM

Had the same problem in the bedroom of our 98 Excella. Tried the spray with same results as you. Dealer recommended contact cement. I pulled down a trim strip and with some effort was able to apply the glue with a long handle brush as per the directions on the can. Ceiling was still up when we traded rigs two years later.

Lee/5474

zoom240 · 01-22-2005, 07:18 AM

Oglerb,

I do appreciate you starting this thread. I've been fighting this sagging ceiling since last summer. The previous owner had some success using a white electric tape - but I can't seem to find the same quality tape.

I've tried the 3M spray adhesive. The 3M glue is good stuff - I used it for a head liner in my Datsun, but the foam liner just separates again and it's useless here. I haven't tried the contact cement yet - it's messy & I figured since the 3M is essentially contact cement, that it wouldn't work either, but perhaps it's worth a shot.

If all else fails, I'll use your covered screws idea.

Thanks,

Dave

Inland RV Center, In · 01-22-2005, 10:09 AM

Adding any type adhesive to the original is a waste of time.

It's like painting. If the base coat is bad, then anything you put on top of it, will also fail.

The same is true in this case.

The original adhesive has failed. Adding a different adhesive to the top of the old, is a very short term fix, as the neqw adhesive will separate from the old, returning the ceiling coverings back to their droop.

The only correct fix, is to remove the coverings, remove all the old adhesive, and start all over again.

Do not use the old coverings as they have the old failed adhesive coating on them.

Not what anyone wants to hear, but we must us the age old repair method, namely "KISS."

Or, as someone has done, you can use screws or batten strips.

Andy

basecamp · 01-22-2005, 12:45 PM

I have a 96 Classic 30', same problem. I was told by the service dept to use 3M Super Tack, is this what people have used? Not all adhesives are the same and some could actually ruin the headliner. I won't be able to try this until the warm weather comes but from what I'm reading, it doesn't sound promissing.

Inland RV Center, In · 01-22-2005, 12:55 PM

Unless "ALL" of the old adhesive has been removed from the metal and foam on the back side of the vinyl, nothing will permanently correct the problem.

The problem was the original adhesive. Therefore until it is "ALL" removed, the problem will come back and haunt you.

Ask those that were non-believers, and tried it.

They learned that they wasted some money, and time, but didn't solve the problem.

Andy