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Old 12-29-2004, 09:39 AM   #15
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thenewkid64 is correct about having to remove the cabinets and all. That is why I went for what appears to be an acceptable & easier repair. I even used a couple of screws in the bedroom closets ceiling material to hold up the liner inside the cabinets (which was also drooping). By the way, be aware that after the drooping started one of my bedroom cabinets fell. I contacted Airstream for help with the ceiling and the cabinet. I got good advice on the cabinets (screw sizes #8 self tapping). I added 2 extra screws to each side cabinet. You would not believe how little holds the cabinet up (6 small screws)!
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Old 12-29-2004, 01:28 PM   #16
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Had the same problem in the bedroom of our 98 Excella. Tried the spray with same results as you. Dealer recommended contact cement. I pulled down a trim strip and with some effort was able to apply the glue with a long handle brush as per the directions on the can. Ceiling was still up when we traded rigs two years later.

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Old 01-22-2005, 08:18 AM   #17
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Appreciate the tip on using covered screws

Oglerb,

I do appreciate you starting this thread. I've been fighting this sagging ceiling since last summer. The previous owner had some success using a white electric tape - but I can't seem to find the same quality tape.

I've tried the 3M spray adhesive. The 3M glue is good stuff - I used it for a head liner in my Datsun, but the foam liner just separates again and it's useless here. I haven't tried the contact cement yet - it's messy & I figured since the 3M is essentially contact cement, that it wouldn't work either, but perhaps it's worth a shot.

If all else fails, I'll use your covered screws idea.

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 01-22-2005, 11:09 AM   #18
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Ceiling and wall covering failure

Adding any type adhesive to the original is a waste of time.

It's like painting. If the base coat is bad, then anything you put on top of it, will also fail.

The same is true in this case.

The original adhesive has failed. Adding a different adhesive to the top of the old, is a very short term fix, as the neqw adhesive will separate from the old, returning the ceiling coverings back to their droop.

The only correct fix, is to remove the coverings, remove all the old adhesive, and start all over again.

Do not use the old coverings as they have the old failed adhesive coating on them.

Not what anyone wants to hear, but we must us the age old repair method, namely "KISS."

Or, as someone has done, you can use screws or batten strips.

Andy
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Old 01-22-2005, 01:45 PM   #19
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I have a 96 Classic 30', same problem. I was told by the service dept to use 3M Super Tack, is this what people have used? Not all adhesives are the same and some could actually ruin the headliner. I won't be able to try this until the warm weather comes but from what I'm reading, it doesn't sound promissing.
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Old 01-22-2005, 01:55 PM   #20
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Unless "ALL" of the old adhesive has been removed from the metal and foam on the back side of the vinyl, nothing will permanently correct the problem.

The problem was the original adhesive. Therefore until it is "ALL" removed, the problem will come back and haunt you.

Ask those that were non-believers, and tried it.

They learned that they wasted some money, and time, but didn't solve the problem.

Andy
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Old 01-22-2005, 02:58 PM   #21
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Listen to Andy's advice on the spray adhesives. I used 3 cans without permanent success. The glue did stay on my fingers longer than the vinyl stayed up. I still like my scewed up celing
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Old 01-22-2005, 07:25 PM   #22
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Roof Bows ??

Take a look at the headliner in a 55, 56 or 57 Chevrolet Coupe (Bel Air). Sure looks pretty cool there! How about sprung polished stainless strips, fastened only at the ends?
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Old 01-22-2005, 08:24 PM   #23
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how does the aluminum underneath look?

I have this same headliner in our Limited, which fortunately has not failed yet after more than 10 years. Regarding what thenewkid64 said about Airstream's poor decision, if they use additional rivets, are there just more of them, or are they just installed "willy-nilly"? And if you're like me who would have something like 350 square feet of drooping vinyl headliner, at this point you're going to have to remove remaining glue and dilapidated foam regardless, as Andy pointed out. If the underlying aluminum is in good shape, it would be easiest to just remove the old glue and foam, and leave it clean.

Also regarding rivets, one of the things I don't like about the headliner is that if you've popped rivets underneath it, you won't know until you've popped a whole lot of them, and then you potentially have what's become a major structural integrity issue. That would not be cool.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:21 AM   #24
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Andy is right on target. The headliner in my truck was drooping and I did all of the above tricks. Finally took it to my local upholstery shop. They said it had to be replaced. I wanted to know if they couldn't just put some glue on it and push it back in place. She looked at me and said "haven't you already tried that". Of course I sheepishly replied yes. Next question was "did it work for you", well no it didn't. Then why do you think I would work for us. $60 bucks and a days wait for a new non sagging headliner.
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Old 01-23-2005, 10:25 AM   #25
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Has anyone had any luck in removing the "black stains" on the walls of the 94-98 models? It looks like oxidation has bleed through or maybe its just the glue. I have tried everything that I can think of to remove the stains but so far nothing has done the job.
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Old 02-06-2005, 06:41 PM   #26
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Post Repair Ceiling '94 Excella

I have been thru the adhesive trials on my '95 Excella, and while it may work for a short time, it will come down again because of the rotten foam insulation.
I have a temporary (maybe permanent fix) in place. I bought a sheet of the acrilic CLEAR plastic from Lowes and had them cut into 1 1/2" wide strips. Drilled holes in it and then predrilled holes thru the aluminum headliner backing and used Aluminum screws to attach to the ceiling and hold in place. The acrilic strips are somewhat flexible and conform to the round ceiling shape, and do a good job of holding things up. Because the strips are clear you dont notice them as the white ceiling shows thru.

To replace the headliner, Airstream uses new insulated headliner glued to new aluminum backing sheets to make like new. The problem is that it will happen to the new headliner just like the one I have after a few years.

I have talked to a trim shop in Florida that has done a lot of work on motorhomes and trailers. They trim the existing headliner very close to cabinets, etc, and remove glue and residue and glue hi grade material to the aluminum sheet- Material seems to be similar to the stuff on the side walls.

Cost is about $50/foot. Thinking of doing this and end problem once and for all
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Old 02-07-2005, 07:24 AM   #27
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To date my ceiling in my 94 is in great shape. It has been kept under shelter for much of its life. Those of you that are having problems do you know if your unit has been subjected to high heat from sitting out in the sun unventilated? I am curious as to why some fail and others do not. My jeep just lost its headliner after sitting outside for a month. Up to that time it had always been garaged.
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Old 02-07-2005, 06:10 PM   #28
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Ours had been garaged most of its life, and it has the droopy ceiling. Sadly, we do not have covered shelter for her now, so her life is a little rougher than it used to be. One priority as we search for a retirement property is a big shed for her. I don't know if the droop is worsening with her outdoors, but the problem began and developed with protected storage.
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