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Old 02-08-2015, 06:51 PM   #15
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OMG, tackled one of my ceiling panels today...hoping it would be easier since it was flat and not so corroded. First had to sand all the corruption of the back...On the front, the Zolatone didn't come up quite as easy but there wasn't nearly as much "white worm" corrosion to deal with under the Zolatone. Made 2 passes with the plastic razor blades, and as I did the second pass I scrubbed with 0000 wool and the Jasco residue.

I need a massage.
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Old 02-08-2015, 07:15 PM   #16
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It's tough

Believe you me, I know. I tried everything you mentioned, including Kleen Strip Aircraft stripper with Methylene Chloride ( super bad stuff), and either required oxygen or a super windy day for you avoid breathing the fumes. I tried the later outside and it still smelled through the P100 mask. I gave up on that, as it was just too much, and it burns when it touches the skin.
Eventually I went with Citristrip, 2-3 applications, leaving on for 20-30 minutes, and then re-applying while it was still wet. After about an hour per panel, I would then try and strip with plastic bondo scrapers. To finish I used those plastic dish washing scrubbers dipped in Mineral Spirits, they didn't gum up as fast as scotch brite did, so you won't have to rinse them as much. That seem to do the trick.

I think that lower panel looks good, and should polish up just fine. The filliform corrosion (worm like marks) should polish out as well.
Start with a black or brown bar for the first cut of polishing/compounding. I went to Caswell and got a 12" polishing wheel, put it on a 7 1/2" grinder (check out perfect polish for the proper technique) and I think it will take it to the level you want. After that you can get crazy with a cyclo and some nuvite.

After All I've done, (still haven't re-installed) I think I am going to do a couple of things. First I think when I polish, I'm going to re-install, as it will be better so I don't have to clamp or hold the panel while polishing.
Also, I think I will either make wood endcaps for the interior, or a wood one and get ahold of Colin H for the rear, as I too will have just a bed in the back.

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Old 02-11-2015, 08:22 AM   #17
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Thanks Redsled. I hadn't seen those 'black and brown bars' before is that compound material? How do you use it? Also, if you've stripped and polished your end caps why are you considering making wood ones or going to Colin?

I finished another 4X12 ceiling panel last night. I used about a 1/2 gallon of Jasco and it took me ~6 hours. Some things I picked up:

2 passes with the plastic blades, then a 3rd pass with 0000 steel wool and using the Jasco like a soap, then a final with steel wool and water.

Need to replace plastic blades often as they dull quickly
Heat really helps, now dropping can of Jasco into a bucket of hot tap water to warm it up and keep it warm. No more big gelatinous clumps.
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Old 02-11-2015, 08:57 AM   #18
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I am so lazy....and impatient

Polished 5052, with a clear protective sheeting, 4 x 8. It is 35.00 a sheet. I lay the flat pieces on,copy them, and install. It is all done in less than a day and "cheaper" than stripper, tools, time.
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:03 AM   #19
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I just finished stripping zolatone off all four walls of my bathroom and now thinking about doing the forward end cap. I used Citristip due to the enclosed space. First applied a thick layer and let it work for 15-20 minutes. Scraped that off with a rigid plastic scraper. Second layer sits for another 10-15 minuted followed by scraper/plastic razor blades (only for tight spaces, dull very fast). Third step was a wet scotch brite sponge which got off 95% of the goo if you rinse it often. Next step was damp green scotch brite pad which got off the rest (rinse or replace often). Wiping liquid off with a rag before it dried helped a lot. A damp rag removes any residue since Citristrip is water based.
Final step will be scotch brite pad mounted on random orbit sander to give a swirled/brushed finish (preferable to fun house mirror finish, at least in the bathroom).
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:05 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Melody Ranch View Post
Polished 5052, with a clear protective sheeting, 4 x 8. It is 35.00 a sheet. I lay the flat pieces on,copy them, and install. It is all done in less than a day and "cheaper" than stripper, tools, time.
How hard is it to remove and reinstall those type of rivets? I do not have the proper rivet gun...
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:28 AM   #21
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According to another post I read the interior panels are just pop riveted. If so, I can remove and reinstall panels but where did you find polished 5052 for that price? What thickness?
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Old 02-11-2015, 09:33 AM   #22
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Zolatone end cap

These do not look like pop rivets to me...
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Old 02-11-2015, 10:46 PM   #23
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Check out "polishing airstream with 12" insisel wheel" on you tube, he has a method, which I use, where you use a 7 1/2" variable speed angle grinder at 3000 rpm with the black or brown compound bar for the first cut or compound. You just deburr the wheel every once in a while. I've got about 60 hours on my roof so far... had to do it while I had scaffolding available. I went to Caswell to get everything. First I use the black... haven't even bothered with brown bar, and then used a white bar, and then to Nuvite F7 I believe on the cyclo. Came out great. I would recommend just a 4" wheel on maybe a drill for the inside, as it's a more tighter spot.
The reason I'm going this route is I have fiberglass endcaps, but I'll be polishing the other areas that look ok, if Not I'm going with Melody on this and using 5052, for the pieces that are bad, and/or maybe the rear section or something.
I've done so much work, I think I may have just been better off to replace. Many say it looks nicer, and was much easier. But I'm cheap.
Even if they don't come out perfect, I can still use them behind cabinets and what not. Still don't have final interior design figured out.

Bambi Tex - Those don't look like pop rivets, and I'm not sure what they did on a '64.
I have a '65 and it has fiberglass interior endcaps. You could always drill a couple out and see if they have a shank I guess. If I had aluminum endcaps I'd just try and strip them. I have a feeling rebuilding aluminum endcaps is going to be a little tricky.

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Old 02-12-2015, 07:46 AM   #24
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The pic is of my 54/55 Flying Cloud end cap. Sold the Bambi.
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Old 02-12-2015, 09:59 AM   #25
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Melody, so funny, I was just thinking last night as I was staring at my stripped ceiling panels how much easier it would have been to refab them. But not sure where to find 4'X12' sheets. I definitely will look at replacing some of the smaller panel...especially the heavily corroded ones. Still thinking I may leave the Zolatone where it will be hidden by cabinetry etc.

Bambi, my aluminum end cap in the back had all pop rivets except for 2 rows in the middle which had bucks. Random...think they just ran short of pop rivets in the factory that day and I plan to use all pops to put them back together (holes are the same). All the rivets in the middle just hold the panels to each other so you don't have to remove them to remove the end cap. I took mine apart to make them easier to strip and so I wouldn't have to clean the old rivets. But the end cap panels did not lay flat and I think they would be very tricky to refab.

And if you haven't tried 0000 steel wool instead of the scotchbrite you might give it a try...I guess you're going for a cloudy finish anyway but the 0000 cleans better I think.
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Old 02-12-2015, 05:18 PM   #26
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Bambi Tex- on a 55 those could definetly be buck rivets.

Tim
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Old 03-01-2015, 01:30 PM   #27
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Just got my end caps and two big ceiling panels back in. You can see from the pic that I only polished the areas of the end cap that would have had me polishing upside-down after install.

I did the same process on it all. After getting all the paint and residue off, I did 2 passes coarse, and medium polish with the rotating polisher and 2 passes with Grade S with the Cyclo. Areas of the end cap came out stunning. The ceiling panels look good, but not as stunning. The only thing I did different was some wet sanding on the end cap panels. Maybe the ceiling panel didn't have the alclad?

Anyway, I am really going to try and avoid any more Zolatone stripping. Most of my panels are too corrupted to look that good after restoring and it's just too much work.

Also not going to polish in the garage anymore...despite tarps etc....the black oxidation got everywhere and even with a 'no shoes in the house' policy, somehow the black found it's way in leading to some serious wife-rage.
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Old 03-01-2015, 04:59 PM   #28
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Looking sweet, I hope my portions that will be polished come out that nice.
I have yet to "Finish" them. Stripping done, but not polished.
I understand on the "Black" stuff.... everywhere I tell you, everywhere.
I ended up getting a cloth head covering, otherwise I had it all over my face.

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