Removing Trim in Bathroom

[kneal]

Are there any secrets or easy ways to remove the trim around the bathroom cabinets and shower? They have all yellowed and I am doing the epoxy treatment on the area soon and want to remove the trim. Thanks in Advance...

Kevin

[CanoeStream]

The aluminum strip had to be riveted in place and then the plastic middle "insert nosing" slid in from a free end. Maybe a cabinet was later installed to block that end or can you see a way to slide out the insert nosing? It is available ... Inland or Oasis. (Airstream Parts Sale Inland RV Center, Inc. (951) 734-8130 -- part #71411) It will be brittle and you can feel okay about destroying it. There'll be rivets behind to remove, then the aluminum trim strip comes off. You'll still need to create a way to slide the insert nosing in after you re-rivet the strip.

[CanoeStream]

The backside of new insert nosing may have to be lightly sanded to make it thin enough to go into your aluminum trim. Some oil-free silicone (LPS-1) will help slide it in but you may still need to thin the insert nosing slightly.

[Lumatic]

I was told by Inland RV last week the "insert nosing" is the U or V shaped flexible plastic that goes over the edge of the counter where it fits into the U groove at the top of the aluminum piece which supports the counter edge. This sounds like a different part than what was described above. There is a illustration of the part on the Inland website.

[CanoeStream]

The way I interpret Kevin's post is that he wants to remove the trim strip circled in red:

I've used Inland's insert nosing and it is the part in the middle so labeled. Insert nosing is flat. I've got a digital pic of my coil on the computer somewhere -- cuz I sold the remainder to another forums member.

Kevin -- help us out here.

[davidz71]

My insert nosing was yellowed and cracking. I just grabbed one end with a pair of pliers where it was cracked and started pulling. New nosing was inserted in the edge of the bottom track, slightly bent and then inserted into the top track. You just keep feeding it in bottom then top as you go. Do not insert and expect to push it through the end of the track toward the other end.

[sequoiacoast]

I have a '68, so mine may be different... but I just pulled the top piece off. It was stuck on by pressure, but with needle-nose pliers, it just came off. The piece underneath was riveted on. I saved each piece, thinking I'd re-use it, but ended up stepping on one piece.. so...

I looked everywhere for a replacement, even Inland RV, and nothing was what I had before- besides, after repainting, the colors wouldn't have matched up. So, I used aluminum trim found in the flooring section of the local hardware store. It's pre-drilled, so I just cut and riveted. Easy!!

[ticki2]

Originally Posted by davidz71

My insert nosing was yellowed and cracking. I just grabbed one end with a pair of pliers where it was cracked and started pulling. New nosing was inserted in the edge of the bottom track, slightly bent and then inserted into the top track. You just keep feeding it in bottom then top as you go. Do not insert and expect to push it through the end of the track toward the other end.

This is also how I inserted the blue stipping on the outside moulding .

[Lumatic]

I have 3 types of what could be described as "trim" on my bathroom sink. Hopefully, my photos will come through. If anyone can give me a better idea of what they are called and where to get them it will be appreciated:
1. rubbery flexible trim that folds over the bottom flange of the sink counter and inserts in aluminum channel.
2 and 3 insert nosing? covers top flange of sink where it is is riveted to the trailer wall. This is what looks most like what is called "insert nosing" on the Inland RV wbsite part#71411. It has a lip on each side and so is not completely flat.
4. formica like flat trim that covers the aluminum facing on the front of the sink cabinet just under the counter. This is flat and attached with double sided foam tape

[CanoeStream]

Originally Posted by Marshall

2 and 3 insert nosing? covers top flange of sink where it is is riveted to the trailer wall. This is what looks most like what is called "insert nosing" on the Inland RV wbsite part#71411. It has a lip on each side and so is not completely flat.

Right -- not completely flat. I'd say that the closeup picture with the black background looks like Inland's part 71411 to me. And Kevin -- they don't come with a hole in it like Marshall's pic.

[davidz71]

When I called Inland RV and described this insert in my rear bath '77 they immediately knew it was insert nosing and sent the amount I requested. I ended up with just 4" extra so I got just the right amount.

[kneal]

I am looking to take both the insert and the aluminum trim off. I guess from what I am reading I will need to remove the insert and then drill out the rivets? Am I reading this right?

Thanks,
Kevin

[CanoeStream]

Right.

[Lumatic]

Originally Posted by kneal

I am looking to take both the insert and the aluminum trim off. I guess from what I am reading I will need to remove the insert and then drill out the rivets? Am I reading this right?

We may be comparing apples and oranges, bit on my Trade Wind the "aluminum trim" is an integral part of the sink/counter support structure.
See my photo above.

[davidz71]

Originally Posted by kneal

I am looking to take both the insert and the aluminum trim off. I guess from what I am reading I will need to remove the insert and then drill out the rivets? Am I reading this right?

Thanks,
Kevin

Sorry, I had to go back and re-read your post. The aluminum trim is riveted to the counter and yes, you will have to drill the rivets out to remove the trim. Stupid question but are you doing the epoxy treatment to resurface your counter? My '77 had some kind of panel surface which was buckling up and had to be glued back down.

[PizzaChop]

Kevin,

Just follow Craig's advice: grab it with pliers and pull it out. You won't save it, it will break apart and isn't worth reusing anyway.

Rather than replacing it with more of the same (kinda pricey), I just cut strips of linoleum and slid them in. The trim now matches the floor and looks nice.

As to your question regarding rivets, yes the trim hides the rivets on the aluminum trim. Once you remove the aluminum trim, you'll find there are still some more rivets behind that. Be careful drilling those out as they tend to spin.

[kneal]

Great. Thanks for your input. I removed the insert today and did a few other things to prep for the epoxy process. Thanks again for your help!

[alumibum]

We just removed brittle nosing in our 74 Argosy....used a piece of wide, vinyl vertical blinds (leftovers) trimmed them to size....very pliable, easy to trim and cut to size, easy to insert.

[PizzaChop]

Kevin,

Just remember that it takes two coats with the epoxy. The first coat won't look great and I tended to over apply (which creates runs). Follow instructions to the letter and you'll be very pleased with the results.

[Lumatic]

I'm just about ready to paint using the epoxy. Do you have any recomendations re:
1. final sanding- how fine?
2. surface prep- the instructions say use (a)muriatic acid x3 or (b) TSP scrubbed with "Rhoades American" 000 steel wool x3

Do you think the brand of steel wool matters?