removing interior walls: bad idea?

[pinkflamingoes]

Whoever cut the wires to the previous appliances cut them so close to the interior walls that we can't splice to them to put in new appliances, not to mention that we can't tell which is which...hubby wants to remove all interior walls down to the wiring, and replace walls with aluminum or copper sheeting, or some other stuff...

is this a bad idea? positives? negatives? he's doing it right now and I'm getting nervous...what can we replace it with? Once he gets started there's no stopping him.

Set my mind at ease, please...he can do it, but...what kind of trouble are we headed for?

ingrid/aka/worry wart wife

[greg176]

I'm doing the same project on my '61. I'll be pulling out the old interior panels and replacing wiring and insulation.I will be trying to salvage as many interior panels as possible as aluminum is quite expensive.Some of the interior panels are badly dented and will have to be replaced.It's not a good idea to replace the interior panels with anything but the same aluminum as the interior panels are part of the strength of the trailer.

[74Argosy24MH]

Tell him to look at all the openings in a panel. Each must be duplicated in exactly the same location; lots of lay out time involved, lots of chances for mistakes. I would try very hard to splice wiring, even if it meant patching some areas especially if they are out of sight.

[j54mark]

The interior panels are structural, they should not be left out nor replaced with something that cannot be stressed in like manner. The coach must be supported solidly end to end if the interior panels are removed or the shell itself will droop.

You can, of course, replace with new aluminum - or copper if your gold mine is producing well. Some of the shapes will be a pain to recreate. There are threads on these forums by people who have installed aluminum overlays, as well as copper.

Good luck,

Mark

[pinkflamingoes]

Originally Posted by greg176

I'm doing the same project on my '61. I'll be pulling out the old interior panels and replacing wiring and insulation.I will be trying to salvage as many interior panels as possible as aluminum is quite expensive.Some of the interior panels are badly dented and will have to be replaced.It's not a good idea to replace the interior panels with anything but the same aluminum as the interior panels are part of the strength of the trailer.

The problem is we've now opened some of it; not so much that it's a problem, but enough to see the wiring and that it's awful; some of the wire coating or even the wire itself is so old and corroded that it's falling apart and is a fire hazard. So we really need to replace the wires and while we're there, the insulation, just like you are.

How are you pulling off the interior walls so that they don't get damaged?

Are you doing it one panel at a time, and then putting it back on or replacing it?

What aluminum are you replacing it with, thickness etc.?

Do you have any pictures to share?

[BobbyW]

Your interior panels are removable.

Just gently drill out the rivets, remove the panels, label them, make the necessary wiring repairs/splices and rivet it back up. Replace insulation as needed.

I have had most of mine off when I replaced the floor. Some look better than before as the rivets had pulled through due to lack of floor support.

[pinkflamingoes]

Originally Posted by BobbyW

Your interior panels are removable.

Just gently drill out the rivets, remove the panels, label them, make the necessary wiring repairs/splices and rivet it back up. Replace insulation as needed.

I have had most of mine off when I replaced the floor. Some look better than before as the rivets had pulled through due to lack of floor support.

How much do we worry about the interior being structural support? Just remove a few at a time and don't worry about it too much? We're having a semi-heated argument about this...! I'd hate to tweak the trailer and he's getting a little "enthusiastic".

i.

[j54mark]

Originally Posted by pinkflamingoes

How much do we worry about the interior being structural support?
i.

I don't really know, but I DO know that when I have removed just a single panel without supporting the frame that the rivet holes would not line up when re-installing. This certainly suggests that there was some movement involved somewhere.

Mark

[pinkflamingoes]

Originally Posted by j54mark

I don't really know, but I DO know that when I have removed just a single panel without supporting the frame that the rivet holes would not line up when re-installing. This certainly suggests that there was some movement involved somewhere.

Mark

Since we've done nothing else (belly pan, floor, everything still intact) we will probably be OK. I'm so glad I posted; he would have had the entire interior gutted and something would have gone wrong...it might still even now, but I got him to listen to reason and slow down, do it in a semi-orderly fashion. This could save us a lot of money too; we want to do the interior in the aluminum veneer style, at least part of it.

i.

[flyfshr]

My recommendation would be to only remove up to the windows. Most of the wiring for the outlets can be accessed this way. You can probobly 'fish' any new wires that you're planning on putting in by connecting it to the old and pulling it through. Before too long, I would provide numerous supports for the frame to the ground to keep the trailer from flexing while any of the interior skins are out.

Just my $.02 worth.

FF

[pinkflamingoes]

Well we removed a panel right next to the door as you are looking out of the trailer, on the right side, and it went up to the ceiling. The wires are SO bad; the coating just flaked right off and some wires just broke from being so brittle. We're going to do it one at a time and replace wires. Better to risk it than a fire.

ingrid

[greg176]

As the first thing in my trailer was to replace the floor I removed all the lower interior panels.That is necessary to get at the "U" chanels that hold the body to the floor.As you are also doing the floor that would be a good place to start. Leave all the upper panels in for now to help keep the shape of the trailer.

[swebster]

Ingrid,
Glad to hear you found the electrical issues before they found you! Since you are going for the "aluminum veneer" look you might consider stripping the panels when they are removed. Getting the panels out of the shell and onto a work table in the well ventilated area would allow you to use Aircraft Stripper to your hearts content. Then when they go back in they are already clean and shiney.

[Lee Pace]

After reading these posts, I had never thought about old wiring. This is a scary thought. We have a 69 Overlander and had never thought about checking the condition of the wiring. Is there a way to check this without totally disassembling the walls?

Don Pace
69 Overlander
WBCCI 7287

[pinkflamingoes]

Originally Posted by Don Pace

After reading these posts, I had never thought about old wiring. This is a scary thought. We have a 69 Overlander and had never thought about checking the condition of the wiring. Is there a way to check this without totally disassembling the walls?

Don Pace
69 Overlander
WBCCI 7287

If you figure that out, let us know...but in the meantime I'll keep you in mind while we do this part, and I'll take a lot of pictures.

ingrid

[pinkflamingoes]

Originally Posted by swebster@myrvadvanta

Ingrid,
you might consider stripping the panels when they are removed. Getting the panels out of the shell and onto a work table in the well ventilated area would allow you to use Aircraft Stripper to your hearts content.

And save us money! Except; there's also a coat of paint...will that make it worth even doing? I have one panel off and I can try it on that. Off to a stripping thread....

i.

[Tin Hut]

Assuming your fixtures and appliances all work and you're not blowing fuses you're probably ok on the wiring. Your trailer may be like mine (1967) where aluminum wiring is used. Over time there is a possibility of corrosion on the wires where they are spliced to the fixture or copper wire. This corrosion builds resistance which builds heat. You can take off the light or outlet, unscrew the wire nut and check. Mine were all fine but I did clean them with fine grit paper, put on some dielectric goop (home depot) and then put a new wire nut on. Do a google on aluminum wiring and you'll find instructions on how to do an aluminum to copper pigtail for your fixtures and outlets. Easy to do.

Originally Posted by Don Pace

After reading these posts, I had never thought about old wiring. This is a scary thought. We have a 69 Overlander and had never thought about checking the condition of the wiring. Is there a way to check this without totally disassembling the walls?

Don Pace
69 Overlander
WBCCI 7287

[TomW]

Originally Posted by Don Pace

After reading these posts, I had never thought about old wiring. This is a scary thought. We have a 69 Overlander and had never thought about checking the condition of the wiring. Is there a way to check this without totally disassembling the walls?

No.

If you want a good indication of the general condition of the wires inside your walls, take a look at the wiring where it goes into the breaker box. Bend it & see if the outer insulation cracks. I will bet you will find it to be in good shape. If you want to exercise reasonable preventive maintenance, you may want replace your breakers - time does not always treat them well.

IMO, the only reason the wire inside your walls would go bad is if the factory did a poor job in installing the wire. The original owner would probably discover that within the first couple of years. The wiring itself can take the heat of its environment, but sharp edges are another thing.

But, let's say the plastic chafing insert the wire is usually run through breaks away. Over time the wire's insulation will be gnawed by the aluminum support. And let's say the hot wire is gnawed first. More than likely, it will pop the breaker. You know you have a problem because you replace the breaker, and the new one pops too.

But let's say it is just a tiny nick through the two sets of wire insulation, just enough for a slow sizzle. What is going to burn? Aluminum skins and fiberglas insulation will not burn in a fire that small. Within seconds, the small sizzle will melt enough insulation to become a bonafide short, and the breaker, assuming time has treated it well, will pop.

By no means am I telling anyone to NOT inspect their wiring. My intent is just to remind you of the wiring's environment.

Tom

[Ken J]

Tom

Great info - on my 58, the wiring covering - kinda like a cloth material that encases the wires looks really bad - but when I took the skin off, the wiring looks perfect.

I was surprised to see wire just put together with wire nuts - the crimped perment kind and not put in any boxes - and the outlets are not in boxes either - guess all that stuff was not very important back in 1958

So in my case, I'm not going to rewire anything, just get some of that plastic covering to put over the wires where they come out of the skin to protect them from nicking.

Ken

[swebster]

And save us money! Except; there's also a coat of paint...will that make it worth even doing? I have one panel off and I can try it on that. Off to a stripping thread...

The Aircraft Stripper should go though both the paint and vinyl. Pretty mean stuff. Post pics!