removing interior walls: bad idea?

[Ken J]

thats what I figured - I moved mine 50 miles with the floor still in, but all the rivets out of the wall panels - just didn't take them out and nothing has moved.

Ken

[upallnight]

Originally Posted by Ken J

thats what I figured - I moved mine 50 miles with the floor still in, but all the rivets out of the wall panels - just didn't take them out and nothing has moved.

Ken

Ken
Have you gotten an air riveter yet? I got a Dayton from ebay, best investment I ever made. Installed all of the panels in about 4 hrs.

[wahoonc]

I would think that the blocking would be more critical when replacing an exterior panel. They are the main part of the structure. Ken IIRC you had a slight bulge at the front of your 58 because the front floor was rotted. I have a similar bulge and a few sheared rivets. If you were to just drill out the rivets replace the floor and slap it back together I believe you might have problems with the rivet holes lining back up. But considering that the factory missed several holes on mine....I don't know how big and issue it would be other than a pain to redrill. If you were to remove a large number of exterior and interior panels I could see there being major alignment problems. Just my observations.

Aaron

[j54mark]

Originally Posted by wahoonc

I would think that the blocking would be more critical when replacing an exterior panel. They are the main part of the structure. Aaron

I think you are quite correct. I also suspect that the effects are greater towards the front and rear ends, and and the magnitude will depend upon the length of the coach.

Mark

[74Argosy24MH]

As long as my body was on the frame it was solid. When lifted it was pretty flimsy especially near the door, it had quite a tendency to twist. I would tie side to side front and rear of the door to help keep the shape of the shell. I used ratcheting tie down straps and it worked fine.

John

[Ken J]

Leonard - yes I've had my eye on one of those - think you just convinced me.

Aaron - I agree the outside panels are more critical. The front buldge did not seem to effect the interior skin - don't know why though - anyway, what I found when I took the interior skin off was the vertical support had popped a couple of rivets so it was just dangling, also there were a couple of rivets that had "missed" the vertical support when the unit was built. I think all of this, combined with some floor rot is what caused the "crushing". I've already fixed the vertical - which seems to have made a differece and am thinking about putting a piece of about a 4 in wide piece of pretty stout aluminum behind the crease - to hopefully pull it back into shape. - what do you think? When I pulled the interior skin off the front it didn't tweak - so it should go back on ok. Also - when I put the interior skin back on, I plan to screw it in several places to line it up - then with Leonards air popper above - it will be bam bam (sorta) done!

Ken