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Old 10-22-2007, 09:04 PM   #1
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Refrigerator Door won't shut

...I have a 70 international and everything is in working order and restored properly except for the door to the fridge--which is the kind (dometic) that apparently you have to 'pin' shut as there are no clicking locks...anyway, the thing won't shut completly at the bottom and you just about have to get down on your knees to push it completly to pin it. Is this door suppposed to shut by itself or has some former owner applied new rubber lining around it and it's too big...I run the gas part of it, The freezer is a separate deal on top. I would like to run the electric instead, and if I understand the manual that came with th AS it says the electric part is only for 'holding the cold' once it is 'cold' ..or should the electric option work fully like a regular one? Does anybody have any feed back on their own expeirience?
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:37 PM   #2
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The door should close unless:
- it has been warped or twisted by force
- it has had new seal installed badly
- there is something else blocking it

If best option is the seal, you can try replacing seal, but make sure there are no other obstructions or warping first..

As for power source, freezer and refrigerator are cooled by same ammonia piping and coolant, so if one works the other should, unless there is clog or problem with cooling unit (search above for "cooling unit" and "fridge" or "refrigerator"). Some trailers had 12V electrical system, rather than 110V power for electrical operation. The 12V heater will drain the battery and put out less heat (heating the fluid produces cooling..) than 110V AC powered heater. Propane operation uses 12V only to power the control cuircuit board, and gas flame provides heat for coolant.
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Old 10-22-2007, 09:54 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonybgood
...I have a 70 international and everything is in working order and restored properly except for the door to the fridge--which is the kind (dometic) that apparently you have to 'pin' shut as there are no clicking locks...anyway, the thing won't shut completly at the bottom and you just about have to get down on your knees to push it completly to pin it. Is this door suppposed to shut by itself or has some former owner applied new rubber lining around it and it's too big...I run the gas part of it, The freezer is a separate deal on top. I would like to run the electric instead, and if I understand the manual that came with th AS it says the electric part is only for 'holding the cold' once it is 'cold' ..or should the electric option work fully like a regular one? Does anybody have any feed back on their own expeirience?
Check the bottom of the gasket and edges of the door. There are a couple of devices you can buy to keep a refrigerator door partially open - when the RV is in storage and all the power is off. The idea is to prevent mildew and black mold from forming on the inside of the refrigerator. Could there be something attached to the bottom of the door for this purpose?

Paula
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Old 10-22-2007, 10:32 PM   #4
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refridgerator door guy

...there is a plug in the outside access door to the 'fridge'...not long ago we tested it to see if it was hot and plugged in a blowdryer to see if it was working and it did...but while later trying to run it on just electricity instead of propane it did not seem to work as well, but I will try it again and give it another run, I've had this AS for less than a year and am still getting used to all the gadgets...Thanks for ya'lls input so quickly and I hope to hear from you guys again.
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