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Old 03-18-2012, 07:24 PM   #15
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1964 17' Bambi II
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Schererville , Indiana
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Or, my favorite:

TremPro 635

I know your sick feeling. (been there, done that!) You'll get through it, though! I prefer the hose method. It gives you some kind of idea where the water is coming from so you aren't in a crazy frenzy sealing everything on your trailer. Try to find your leak & then seal the rest of the trailer at your leisure. It's a big job that is tedious, so have your patience lined up too!


1964 Bambi II
1988 Avion 32S
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:26 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Mrs.Mod View Post
Thank you for the prompt response and your expertise. I'm kinda freaking out right now. (do you remember me talking about my dry trailer with 270win? Geesh.)
So, I probably shouldn't nit pick about where the leak is, right? I'd rather seal up as many possible spots as I can. I'm guessing I should have the window reinstalled with new gaskets/seals, right? Then what about the smaller possibities? Should I caulk?
Or do you think I should get out the garden hose and really see where the water is coming from?
It's rare that I freak out over things like this. I'm a handy girl (10 years in the motorcycle biz and an avid home improvement DIYer) I can usually figure out how to fix things. But this one is making my head spin because I don't know where to start. I'm not too proud to pay someone to fix things either, but I fear that this will mean we need to take the interior apart which is my nightmare.
Cara you don't need to remove the windows to reseal them. Just clean off all the old sealant and apply new.
Parbond is what you want to use for seams and around windows.

Inland RV Center Inc.

The gasket for the windows is made from a rare material called unobtainium. A phrase you will soon become very familiar with by the way.
To seal around the glass to frame just cut back the old gasket and apply sealant.
Like others said reseal every thing then use the garden hose to leak test the area.

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Old 03-18-2012, 07:28 PM   #17
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I used Vulkem 116 grey from Home Depot or Lowes
Click on the link to see a picture of the Sioux River falls near my home.
Eastern South Dakota is very pretty with hills, rivers, and trees.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:30 PM   #18
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The Sea Ranch , California
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Hey, yeah don't freak out! It can leak for a while without causing terrible damage, and you can get it fixed. I didn't read every post, but it is also possible that it is coming in a skylight and traveling down the inner shell. I speak from experience. Someone gave me invaluable, simple advice: start low on the body, and shoot a hose at it. If nothing, shoot it higher on the body. You may see something coming out inside, or it may take a while. I also tried ink, to see where it came out inside.. non permanent. That actually worked and didn't do anything to the zolatone.. it was so diluted by the water. OR, just seal everything.
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Old 03-18-2012, 07:32 PM   #19
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St. Cloud , Minnesota
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Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS View Post
Put some duct tape around the lower seal of the window and enjoy your trip.
Duct tape adhesive can be a bugger bear to get off -- worse the longer you leave it on.

You'll probably see rain before you leave, so step up and mask the glass-window frame junction, trying to help it begin to dry out. Take it off if you see a dry stretch coming. I wouldn't use acetone anywhere near clearcoat, plastic extrusions, sheet metal laps or at junction of skin & window frame. I'd use a cloth lightly damp with soap and water right at the frame-window junction. Mineral spirits are pretty kind to the skin-frame areas -- soft cloth on any area with road grit removed -- might take some persistence.

As overlander63 sez -- caulk is a big no can do. Do research and get Sikaflex 721 (my favorite), Parbond or the appropriate Vulkem before you pursue a permanent fix. The factory has pallet loads of 721 for all current assembly - great stuff.

Okay, this may have been the link I tried to find in the first place - Quick Wing Window Fix. Mask the frame & glass for easy cleanup, apply your bead, run a finger along the junction with intent to press it as far into the junction as you can. Certainly work with the area cleaned and dried (air compressor? nice stretch of weather?) as much as you can before doing this!

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Old 03-23-2012, 12:24 PM   #20
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I had some problems in that area where the seal between the glass and the metal frame was bad. I cut the gray plastic stuff flush with the metal frame and caulked it will Trempro 635. There are seams in the window frame on the inside and the outside that leak water when the frame channel fills up with water. Other places will be the frame to skin joint and any places like marker lights or porch lights. I still have my front interior skins off fixing leaks and replacing battery boxes. Check that area to the right of the door as well. Here is a good thread on water leaks in that area.

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Old 03-24-2012, 07:34 PM   #21
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RE: Vulkem 116- I have used this on my trailer to seal exterior items, which subsequently were removed. I was impressed with how difficult it was to remove the Vulkem.
Wherever you go, there you are
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Old 03-24-2012, 08:09 PM   #22
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Ottawa , ON
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Originally Posted by Globie64 View Post
RE: Vulkem 116- I have used this on my trailer to seal exterior items
TremPro 635 is the modern low-VOC version of Vulkem polyurethane sealant.
If it's to be, it's up to me.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:12 PM   #23
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Completely off topic: nice new avatar you have there, Aage.
"If you can't be a good example, then you'll just have to be a horrible warning." - Catherine Aird

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Old 04-08-2012, 11:30 AM   #24
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1990 29' Land Yacht
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Americus , Also Valrico, Fl
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leak below window

[Probably window seal failure....Common happening. A litttle bit of the right caulk, properly installed ( not to be obvious ) goes a long way. I have removed pounds of caulk installed by PO's and replace it with very small amounts of caulk and fixed a tiny leak. NO WORRY...

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