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Old 04-09-2011, 05:27 PM   #1
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Queen to Double bunk conversion

I've got a 28' Safari and want to convert the bedroom area from a queen to double bunks. Has anyone done this out there, if so, please point me to the thread.

I'd like to know the distance from the floor to the bottom of the Airstream Bunk that goes into many of the current models. That will give me an idea of where to place the upper bunk.

Hopefully someone will be looking for a queen bedroom set when I get the conversion finished.
Thanks!
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Old 07-14-2011, 12:19 PM   #2
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Any progress?
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Old 07-15-2011, 09:48 AM   #3
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Should start in August.
I would like to sell the queen set so I don't have to store it, but selling it will probably take a while. I was also hoping that someone has blazed bunk conversion path already, but also no luck.
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Old 07-15-2011, 02:56 PM   #4
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I modified my Classic 28 from crosswise queen to twin beds right here in Austin. I advertised the queen mattress on Craigslist just to get rid of it and found a taker in Marble Falls.

I was able to use most of the queen pedestal as material for the twin beds. I did not do upper bunks since there are just two of us seniors.

There are photos on my 2005 Classic thread, starting at about post 258. Note that I had Airstream install a long storage door on the curb side for access under that bed.

The twins are a great improvement over the original crosswise queen, both in sleeping comfort and in moving-around room.
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Old 07-15-2011, 02:59 PM   #5
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Please note that in the preceding post I changed the starting post number to 258 from 298. Hard to read without my glasses!
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:06 PM   #6
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Thanks John for the link. I'm going to keep the queen set intact as I don't plan to re-use any of the materials. The queen set I have is a lengthwise setup. I plan on completing the twin/storage platform and flooring and then install the bunks.

Did you use cardboard to make patterns for the wood?
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Old 07-17-2011, 09:17 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulAir View Post
Did you use cardboard to make patterns for the wood?
Only for the head end of the twin beds that are in the curve of the rear end of the trailer. I actually used some of the corrugated plastic that is used for signs and the like.

The removed pedestal really has no value, but is a ready-made set of sides for the twins with matching finish. The drawer opening in the pedestal are ready-made to access the under-twin space. I used the front of the drawer and a set of hinges to access under the one twin.
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:06 AM   #8
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It Begins!

After 6 hours of removing things, I'm down to designing the details. Still a few things left to do before anything goes back in...
1) Remove trim pieces and move them to where the ceiling will end at the bedroom threshold.
2) Install new fantastic fan
3) repair all broken rivits and seal the floor holes and seam where the floor meets with AL.
4) remove all contact glue

The whole area will be prepared for painting with Multiceramic paint so the end result will be a sealed bedroom area. Since I've got things apart, I'm looking into replacing the toilet with a Nature's Head composting toilet. That way I can remove the current tank setup and replace with 2 increased capacity fresh and grey water tanks.

I had already removed the bathroom door and now took out the frame. I plan to replace with a similar tracked fabric door like the ones for the hallway divider. I don't have to duck to get in the bathroom now!
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:13 AM   #9
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workmanship

I thought Airstream would pay a bit more attention given the price an all, but the amount of construction trash made me surprised. They could have at least taken a vaccume to the thing before putting down the carpet. When you put up carpet on the walls, you get to hide all the uglyness, so this is a peek under their skirt! They tape the seams!

Other areas where the AL come together, getting the lighting to be the same distance from the wall, trimming the AL around the windows, etc.
It seems they don't have the right tools to do the job right.

After seeing this, I would never buy a new one!
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Old 08-18-2011, 10:15 AM   #10
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Leak questions

I think there is a slight leak on the side trim near the wheel well. I'll probably pull off the exterior trim piece and caulk that seam again.

The other areas look like interior water damage, like putting wet items in the rear storage or in the old cabinets.
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Old 08-30-2011, 10:48 PM   #11
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Dimensions set

This week is getting the height and dimensions of the bunks in place.

Using 32" wide twin mattress dimensions, the bunks rails will sit 31" off the side on the floor. The curvature of the sides will give a 1.25 to 1.5" increase in width, so the mattress width will fit.

The bunk bottoms will be at 14" and 47" off the floor. The mattresses will sit on 1x1 poplar slats (idea from past futon bed designs where the poplar acts as the box springs). The mattress will be around 4.5" thick made of natural latex rubber.

Other dimensions:
New storage area: 30" deep x 94" wide. 16" high at the door and 14" to the sides. A few more square inches is always needed!
Under bed storage: 31" deep x 51" wide on each side. This affords 6 big tubs instead of only 4 with the queen arrangement.
"hallway" : 31"x31" area to walk around.

MultiCeramics paint was ordered (0 VOC) for the interior walls and floor.

Started on removing the contact cement for the carpet and head liner using goof off.

Since the bathroom is affected, Its going to be remodeled as well. I'm starting a separate thread for that work.

Parting work on the 12V light fixtures sitting against the vinyl... makes me think of fire hazzard! I had to pry the fixture off of the vinyl!
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Old 08-31-2011, 01:21 AM   #12
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Hi, I removed one of my light fixtures and saw the same thing; [reflectors stuck to the vinyl] Now I'm afraid to leave a light on when no-one is home. Actually because of this, I only leave my oven vent light on.
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Old 08-31-2011, 09:06 AM   #13
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Your twin bed layout looks much like mine except that I left the carpet in place in mine. I used marker on masking tape stuck to the carpet to do my layout.

It was real fun determining the exact center of the trailer in mine since the bottoms of the two walls are not identical and the doorway is not centered. There is a sort of duct at the base of the wall on the street side in mine. I used the exact center of the rear window to locate center at the rear end. Further forward, I dropped a plumb line from the center of the Fantastic Fan and again from the center of the fan in the bathroom and ran a taut string. There was a slight disagreement between the two fans, so I split the difference and then rechecked from the belt rail to the string and found that it was just about perfect.

Once I had a true center, the rest was easy.
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Old 09-01-2011, 12:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska View Post
It was real fun determining the exact center of the trailer in mine since the bottoms of the two walls are not identical and the doorway is not centered...
Good idea! I'll check centers using the window and fan reference and adjust from there. The plywood has seams that I "assume" are square and was using that to draw my lines. I haven't noticed anything that would make me think that things are not square, but I'm sure that as soon as you rise off the floor, measurements will be all over the place. I want to make sure that the beds have enough room. Since the cargo separator will go straight across, it should be easy to line up the bed rails. I'm assuming around a quarter inch tollerance on the beds.

I'm not a carpet fan, so I was more than happy to rip that stuff out. Natural lanoleum will cover the area and get sealed along the edges and cork floors for the "hallway".

I've separated out the bathroom remodel and that can be caught here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f46/...del-81914.html
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