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Old 11-24-2005, 12:13 PM   #15
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Are they in two rows down either side of the ceiling? The ceiling panel is too wide to be made from a single sheet, so they joined three strips together with buck (solid) rivets as a single sheet, then took it inside and pop riveted (volcanos) it to the frame.

It is faster and cheaper to make it with buck rivets if you have access to both sides.
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Old 11-24-2005, 12:25 PM   #16
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To some extend an occasional popped rivet is normal, in my opinion.
Black marks indicate that there's movement, either from vibration due to unbalanced running gear, bad suspension, or road vibration.
I doubt that it is caused by expansion/contraction due to heat/cold. The entire structure is aluminum, and would expand/contract at about the same rate.
Constant vibration will make the black marks, a road shock will "finish off" the weakened rivet.
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Old 11-24-2005, 07:48 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Are they in two rows down either side of the ceiling? The ceiling panel is too wide to be made from a single sheet, so they joined three strips together with buck (solid) rivets as a single sheet, then took it inside and pop riveted (volcanos) it to the frame.

It is faster and cheaper to make it with buck rivets if you have access to both sides.
Holy cow. That makes sense. If I'm understanding you correctly you have just saved me several hours of unneccessary work and frustration! What I understand this to mean is that I only need to remove the pop rivets (hereby dubbed "volcanos") in order to remove the interior skin as the buck rivets do not attach to the frame.

Cool...
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:02 PM   #18
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That's right!

What I did was lower the whole thing to the floor, roll it lengthwise and tie it up. When I was done with the wiring and insulating I lifted it back up and 'popped' it back in place.
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:09 PM   #19
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You didn't wind up with creases or flaking zolatone doing that?
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:21 PM   #20
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Nope. You will need help lowering the sheet and lifting it back up. You can't crease it unless you lay on it, and the zolatone will be fine.
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:24 PM   #21
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Awesome! Thanks!
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:36 PM   #22
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There is some risk in doing this. The top sheet is heavy and has sharp corners. Wear heavy gloves. Have at least one competent helper. Be very cautious about your feet, if the sheet slips and falls it could amputate toes, or worse.

I laid 2x4s on the floor so if the sheet slipped it would land on the lumber instead of my toes.
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:38 PM   #23
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A good friend of mine is an aircraft mechanic, trained in the air force and now working in civil aviation. He's agreed to help me, so that's good. Also, thanks for the tips on the gloves. I think I'll wear my steel-toed boots, too
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Old 11-24-2005, 09:51 PM   #24
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If you don't have a few dozen clecoes, borrow some from your friend. They are essential when putting the sheet back in place.
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Old 11-24-2005, 11:47 PM   #25
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End cap 'split' near overhead cabinet....

Hi all -

Happy Turkey Day! Hope that there are a few of you left without Triptofan (sp?) overload.

Was out in SilverToy this afternoon. It was 72 here today, by the way. Envious??! Made grilling the turkey a real pleasure! Of course, they are calling for snow on Saturday, and at 7200 feet, I am sure we will get it! Feast or famine...

While out there I noticed that the fiberglass endcap has a small split/rip right by the end of the overhead cabinet. Anyone else ever noticed anything similar?? Both front and rear. Both on the left side as you face the endcap. Odd since it is only on one side - opposite sides of trailer at opposite ends. Thoughts on the possible cause?

Thanks for any help you all can offer.

Axel
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Old 11-28-2005, 05:49 PM   #26
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If you don't have a few dozen clecoes, borrow some from your friend. They are essential when putting the sheet back in place.
Definitely... and that picture is very helpful, by the way!
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Old 11-28-2005, 05:57 PM   #27
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Axel

My 75 had those cracks - I think its somewhat normal as the fiberglass ages and gets bounced around - what I did was drill a small hole at the end of the crack - they never ran any further.....

Ken
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