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Old 05-08-2014, 08:49 AM   #29
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Great documentation and great handiwork.


Blessings to you for your motivation to others.


This is a great thread to follow for those thinking about personalizing an Airstream. The time, effort and money certainly worked out for me on the '78 Sovereign. The Sovereign has been used for traveling, living, and as a guest house. In the very near future Mary and I will be concentrating on the "traveling" portion big time.


Might I suggest, as a guide to those who will follow your impetus, some indication of an order of magnitude for the time and monies you have invested so far? Your documentation is great, and I think that a basic idea of the total investment (especially time) would benefit those who will be following your encouraging example.


Hope to meet up with you at a campground or rally.


Inspirational thread!

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Old 05-08-2014, 11:07 AM   #30
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Great documentation and great handiwork.


Blessings to you for your motivation to others.


This is a great thread to follow for those thinking about personalizing an Airstream. The time, effort and money certainly worked out for me on the '78 Sovereign. The Sovereign has been used for traveling, living, and as a guest house. In the very near future Mary and I will be concentrating on the "traveling" portion big time.
Thanks for the very kind words. I do hope the pictures give folks an idea of what is involved, I know I get more out of seeing what people have done than by reading descriptions.


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Might I suggest, as a guide to those who will follow your impetus, some indication of an order of magnitude for the time and monies you have invested so far? Your documentation is great, and I think that a basic idea of the total investment (especially time) would benefit those who will be following your encouraging example.
Inspirational thread!

I can do better with some of the costs than I can with the time. I really don't try to track how many hours I have put in but it is quite a bit, probably well over 100 just on this phase, maybe even more than 150, really am not sure. I get about 2-3 days during the week that I can work on it, and that equates to about 6 hours actual work time per day. There is also lots of time spent running around for parts and supplies. Hard to judge exactly what you need till you need it. And of course, nothing ever goes according to plan and there is lots of trial and error which slows progress down too.

On this phase, I started around January and here we are in May and I still have I hope a couple more weeks to get the main cabinet back together and get her on the road. Weather didn't cooperate as much during the Winter, so progress was slower. I get very envious when I see folks that have an inside space to work on their trailers, to me that would make it so much easier.

On the parts and supplies, I can give a partial rundown on some of what I bought, but I doubt it is complete, there are lots of incidentals you just tend to forget about. On this phase:

Fridge: 325
Corian top: 90
Faucet: 25
Atwood stove: 140
Copper tubing for gas: 25
Flaring tool and bending tools: 60
Cherry plywood 2 sheets: 185
1/2 "blond" plywood: 30
Cherry lumber: had it around, usually goes for around 6 a bd ft.
Drawer slides: 30
Microwave: 100
TV with DVD: 190
TV wall mount: 35
Jack digital roof antenna: 105
Aluminum for backsplash and mounting plate for water fill: 75
Marine water fill tube 16, marine vent 12, fill hose 11
Rivet shaver 80, shaver bits 8 Sealant 8
Aluminum for underbelly: 70
Four aluminum wheels with tires: 200 gas to get them and tolls: 85, lug nuts: 50
Paint and varnish: maybe 100
Various screws and bolts: 50

Probably more I cant remember, but hope this gives you an idea
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Old 05-22-2014, 05:28 PM   #31
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Work has continued on the kitchen base cabinet as well as the panels for the New(er) fridge. I also replaced the end bulkhead panel with a piece of the 1/2" cherry ply and trimmed it out. Here are some more pix to tell the story.

Fitting all the pieces together.





With the finish coat of poly. I still need to get a piece of aluminum cut to fit to act as the back of the toe kick. I'm also going to do something with the original walnut finish on the oven bulkhead, but haven't quite figured that one out yet. I may pick up some cherry veneer and try to apply it or it may just get painted.



End panel with vent. You probably cant see it, but there is 1/2 " cherry quarter round molding that took me a good two hours to make. I tried to get it to bend around the bulkhead by the tv and fridge, but it kept on breaking. I'll have to find something else that is much more flexible to fit the curve of the ceiling.



Corian top, still needs some sanding to clean it up:



New Atwood cooktop:



GE microwave now permanently mounted below the stove and above the furnace. The panel below the furnace has an aluminum grate to allow heat to dissipate if the furnace is running and can snap in and out without any tools for access.




Three drawers done. The top most one was meant to be a pullout cutting board but the undermount slide is giving me fits and I dont want to pull everything apart to get it out. I may just use the end drawer cover permanently fixed over the opening.




Undercounter access to pluming.




New panels for the fridge:



Fridge and the new flatscreen on its swing mount:





New mount for the thermostat for the AC and the new Jack antenna terminal:




I put a new JACK rotating antenna up on the roof and ran the antenna wire back down through the fridge vent and into the back of this antenna terminal. There is also 12v access that allows power to the base of the antenna to power the signal strength meter.




And the little wing antenna up on the roof. The antenna can rotate about 350 degrees and the signal meter will show the strongest level of signal. This antenna is designed solely for digital signals, analog need not apply. When I first powered up the flatscreen on the antenna it found about 20 channels, many of which I didn't even know existed.







Still left to do on the base cabinet are the drawer and door handles and the aluminum toe kick. I may have to figure out something to keep the drawers from flying open when we are driving. I've also got the cherry ply to remake all the cabinet doors on the cabinets by the fridge as well as new doors to replace the tambour on both sides of the upper cabinets. I am going to trim out the aluminum with solid cherry stock as well but keep all the original structure of those aluminum cabinets for weight. I also want to sand down the parquet flooring and refinish that too. I just dont know if I will start on that right away or wait till we've had a chance to do come camping first.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:00 PM   #32
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I can't make out the 1/4 round moldings you mentioned having trouble with. Just in case you were not aware cherry will bend nicely if you steam it. You can also dunk it in boiling water to get it hot. I do like your cabinet work. Keep it up and you'll really have something special when done.
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Old 05-22-2014, 07:08 PM   #33
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I can't make out the 1/4 round moldings you mentioned having trouble with. Just in case you were not aware cherry will bend nicely if you steam it. You can also dunk it in boiling water to get it hot. I do like your cabinet work. Keep it up and you'll really have something special when done.

Yeah, they don't show up well in the photo of the end panel but they are there. Problem with steaming them is that I want them finished before they go on the wall and the steam or water will raise the grain. I may go with some sort of thin woodgrain molding from a big box store or maybe go for some contrast and paint it a silver color.

Thanks again for the kind words, its been a lot of work but I like seeing it start to come all together.
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Old 05-23-2014, 08:48 AM   #34
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We borrowed an idea from HiHoAG to use magnets at the back of some of our drawers to keep them in place while traveling. Works like a charm!
You might want to look at what we did with our backsplash in the kitchen for your oven wall: it's a PVC product we saw on "I hate my kitchen" DIY series. Goes up with powergrab and is easy to cut with scissors. Been up a year with no problems. Lots of color choices and looks. I'll look up the info on where to order it online.
Looking very good!

Kay
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Old 05-23-2014, 06:36 PM   #35
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We borrowed an idea from HiHoAG to use magnets at the back of some of our drawers to keep them in place while traveling. Works like a charm!
Where would you put the magnets? The drawers are wood and there is nothing metallic next to them except the slides themselves.

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You might want to look at what we did with our backsplash in the kitchen for your oven wall: it's a PVC product we saw on "I hate my kitchen" DIY series. Goes up with powergrab and is easy to cut with scissors. Been up a year with no problems. Lots of color choices and looks. I'll look up the info on where to order it online.
Looking very good!

Kay
I did find your post on the backsplash, I'll have to show it to my better half and see what she thinks. This is the link: PVC Back Splash Some of those rolls are not that cheap. Do you think any type of vinyl type of wallpaper would stick to the fake brown panel? I really just want to lighten it up and provide some contrast.
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Old 05-23-2014, 07:43 PM   #36
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Great job!
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Old 05-24-2014, 04:25 PM   #37
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Great job!
Thanks Larry.
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Old 05-26-2014, 10:17 AM   #38
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Where would you put the magnets? The drawers are wood and there is nothing metallic next to them except the slides themselves.
I attached the magnet to the back of the drawer, and the plain metal part to the wall. I cut a piece of wood to act as a shim for the metal catch. See pictures below.

Chris


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Old 05-26-2014, 10:25 AM   #39
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I did find your post on the backsplash, I'll have to show it to my better half and see what she thinks. This is the link: PVC Back Splash Some of those rolls are not that cheap. Do you think any type of vinyl type of wallpaper would stick to the fake brown panel? I really just want to lighten it up and provide some contrast.
That's the correct web site. Looks like they changed how they sell stuff from when we bought it 2 years ago. We're both pretty sure we bought it by the foot, not by a 10 foot roll.

With the proper prep, I think vinyl wallpaper would stick ok. Clean the wall really, really well, perhaps even giving it a light sanding.

Kay
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Old 05-26-2014, 11:58 AM   #40
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I attached the magnet to the back of the drawer, and the plain metal part to the wall. I cut a piece of wood to act as a shim for the metal catch. See pictures below.

Chris
OK, that makes a bit more sense. Was thinking maybe get a magnetic catch and position it at the bottom of the opening of the face frame and put the other part on the drawer face on the inside. There is a bit of space there to play with.

Did make a bit of progress with the doors for the cabinet wall. Got them glued up and test fit into the openings. Going to try and use the existing piano hinges that the old doors used. Interestingly, I found that my new doors are actually lighter in weight than the old doors which are a combination of aluminum, melamine and something like a cardboard or fiberboard sandwich in the middle. Would have thought the plywood would be heavier, but its only 1/2" and the moldings surrounding the door aren't that heavy either. I also made a bit of sawdust cutting out and milling the cherry to cover the aluminum in the center of the old extrusions, where it was originally filled with the fake walnut Formica.









Milled cherry stock for inserts:

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Old 05-26-2014, 03:25 PM   #41
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Those doors look really nice!!!

I have table saw envy now too...

Chris
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Old 05-27-2014, 05:46 PM   #42
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Those doors look really nice!!!

I have table saw envy now too...

Chris
Thanks. The saw tends to be more of a catchall lately, I've got so much stuff all over the place from this ongoing work that every surface is used for some storage. This is it in a rare state of clean:

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