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Old 03-23-2014, 08:46 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beckybillrae View Post
This thread reminds me of my adventures with my underside of my previous trailer (1986 Sovereign) in this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f476...pan-58333.html

The best part is when you're finished, and the worst part is that no one will ever see or appreciate all that work you put in to the underside of your trailer! Keep up the great work!
And I read that whole thread a while back when we were first getting started. So I had a good idea of what is involved, but it always takes 3x as long to get it done then you initially anticipate. Cabinet making and interior remodeling is always fun and everybody loves to see it all look new and different, but without the ugly work on the underside its all lipstick on a pig. Thanks for your kind words.
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Old 03-30-2014, 07:00 AM   #16
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Go Bob GO!! I am about ready to start putting things back to together on my 72 Overlander. This is inspirational!
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:31 PM   #17
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Weather is getting nicer and I am making progress on putting it all back together. The lower wraps are back on and the belly pan is back on to the front axle. I have always liked to the look of the dark grey on the lower wraps on the later models and decided to replicate that on this trailer.

The lower wraps and banana wraps were sanded with a sanding sponge to rough up the surface and were sprayed with self etching primer. I then used graphite color mag wheel paint and then sprayed a clear finish on top. I think it does a good job of covering up the less than perfect lower sheet metal and gives the old girl a bit more of a modern look. And the better half likes it too, so that's all that matters. Here are some more pix:

Taped off:











Primed:




Reflectors sprayed:



Done:


Just LOVE the new wheels <points up >




Just about ready to start work on the inside. Will be resizing the corian sink top to fit the kitchen and starting on the cabinetry this next week. Finally the fun stuff...
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Old 04-05-2014, 09:48 AM   #18
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Paint job looks nice! I'm waiting for the 10" snow fall from yesterday to melt off and it to get warm enough to paint our lower blue stripe. I see yours is blue, ours was never as far as we can tell.
Your top is white? We are going to paint ours this summer (on the list and we have the paint, anyway). Do you like it?


Kay
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:25 PM   #19
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Paint job looks nice! I'm waiting for the 10" snow fall from yesterday to melt off and it to get warm enough to paint our lower blue stripe. I see yours is blue, ours was never as far as we can tell.
Your top is white? We are going to paint ours this summer (on the list and we have the paint, anyway). Do you like it?


Kay
The top was done last year. It is the ceramiflex coating and I'm very happy with it. It completely seals up the roof and it dramatically reduces the temp of the metal on a hot sunny day. When we replaced the roof AC last year you couldn't put your hand on the uncoated aluminum, but the coated surface was just warm to the touch. That job was documented here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f478...lex-98479.html


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Old 04-07-2014, 07:38 PM   #20
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I hadn't planned on it but over the weekend we found a used Dometic RV fridge on the local CL. It's about the same size as the original unit but is about 25 years newer. Was in pretty good shape and it seems to run well. So today I set about pulling out the old unit to make way to putting this one in.

Didn't really have much to go on on how the old fridge would come out, So I started removing screws and prying the wood panels back to see what else would be holding it in. As it turns out, most of the support was on the outside edge in the form of two sheetmetal brackets, one at the top on the side and one at the bottom. I had to pull out the end panel to expose the brackets and then it was easy enough to remove the screws. The top and left side had some plywood attached to the unit that had wood screws going through the cabinetry to hold it in. And of course the parquet flooring the PO put in didnt help as it was another lip I had to drag the carcass up and over to move it out of the way. And since we all like pix, here are a few more:

New(er) unit in front, old behind.



Not sure why the plastic discolored.




Sitting next to the dirty hole the old one came out of. You can see the sheet metal bracket toward the top of the hole:

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Old 04-19-2014, 07:46 AM   #21
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Starting on the new sink and cooktop cabinet

Finally I'm to the point in the project I like the most, constructing the new cabinet that will house the sink and the cooktop. Last year while cruising through one of the local Habitat ReStores I came across a corian countertop with a single sink built in for 90 bucks. It was quite long which was a plus since that would give me extra material to work with. It came home and sat out on the back deck for many months till this last week when I put it on sawhorses and started to cut it down to size.

Using the dish rack to figure out where to make the cuts. I didnt want the oven door to be too close or too far.


Once the top was cut down to about 64" long, I made a cut to decrease the depth down to 28" from its existing 32" dimension. It's not that I wouldn't love to have it that deep, but we are talking Airstreams and they are fairly narrow so I had to make some adjustments for that. I will use the cutoff for part of the backsplash.

This counter had a 3 layer edge, so I took two strips of cutoff corian and glued it up to the raw edge nearest the door. I then cut it straight with the tracksaw and routed a new edge. I also trimmed the front edge about 1/4" and routed that as well as there were some dings from moving it around. If I didn't mention it, corian is pretty heavy and this counter was pretty large before cutting.

Inside the trailer, I decided to construct a support for the top that would be independent of the cabinet. I learned from working the bathroom last year that you cant build a cabinet whole and then bring it inside and sit it down like you would in a house. Not enough room and nothing is square and too many "things" to build around. In this case, I have to work around the heater, the water connections and the inner wheel fender.

The original counter was at 36" high so that is where this one is as well. I am using some scrap 3/4" ply that is tied to the back wall with aluminum tabs riveted in and screwed to the bottom of the wood. It is also supported with two vertical members screwed down to the subfloor. The existing partition that the oven sits in supports the right side and it will be supported in the front on each corner and in the middle.


See what I mean, lots of "crap" to work around:






We will be mounting a new microwave underneath the counter, right above the heater and below the cooktop. I understand that heat could be an issue if the furnace is in use, but I doubt that we will be doing much camping in really cold weather and at some point you have to make design considerations due to existing space. In other words, there's no other place to put it and have some storage for pots and pans. So the next step will be to create an inner platform for the oven as well as wire in an outlet under the cabinet. I'll also create a floor above the heating duct on the right side for storage and to keep it all neat.

I wasn't sure what to make the outside of the cabinet with, I had thought of using some sort of birch veneer ply. I'm pretty much over rotary cut red oak which is what you see in most of the big box stores. So last week I went to the local lumber yard, Yukon Lumber in Norfolk to see what they had. As it turns out, they had two sheets of 1/2" straight cut cherry veneer ply sitting in the shed that I fell in love with. For those folks that are unfamiliar with how plywood is made, rotary sliced veneer is similar to how a pencil sharpener cuts, the log is rolled and a thin continuous veneer is sliced off. Unfortunately, the grain doesn't look like solid stock, the grain is exaggerated, it looks like plywood. Plain sawn or straight cut slices are like cutting a piece of cheese, each narrow slice is then glued together to make the veneer. Looks much more natural as if you glued several boards together to make a panel.

Of course the downside to falling in love with something is money. Both sheets set me back about 90 each. But rather than just make the one cabinet the plan is now to remake all the surrounding cabinetry with the cherry panels. And fortunately, I have a good amount of solid cherry lumber sitting in my wood rack collecting dust for a project that never got off the ground several years ago. So I got to work and started planning out how to cut this expensive stock so I would maximize each panel. As it turns out, I was able to download a free cutlist program that allowed me to take my measurements for each part and place them on the board so that they all fit. Again, the track saw is the go to tool here, it makes cuts as nice or better than a table saw so that very little finish cutting is needed if you plan well.

First board laid out ready to cut:





Gotta have some place to put the cutting diagram:



Probably the worst pollen day of the year to be outside:



Making the long cuts. Hard to see, but this wood is really pretty stuff.




The rest of the day was spent planing down the rough cherry stock and starting to cut out parts for a face frame as well as rails and stiles for the doors. I also ordered a faucet off amazon as well as a new cooktop in stainless. I had tried to resurrect the old 4 burner cooktop, but it became apparent that it would never look all that great and I hated the thought of doing all this work just to put back an old appliance that would look shabby in comparison. Here is a shot of the new parts posing for a picture on the counter top:





Next week I will be cutting the side panel and making the face frame for the front once the inner cabinet work is done. I am also planning on using a single piece of .032 aluminum for the backsplash, so that should help neaten things up as well. This is a plan as you go project, which means its very easy for mistakes to be made, but there is really no other way to do it.



Again, thanks for looking and I hope to have this rig back on the road sometime in May, about a month longer that initial estimates.
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Old 04-19-2014, 09:41 AM   #22
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Bob, we put a full RV range and oven on top of our furnace. The key is to make sure you keep the recommended airspace around it and on top. We think our recommended airspace on top was an inch or something like that. We have used our furnace while camping rather a lot without difficulties.
Nice find on the corian counter! Set up looks nice so far! And yes, we built the bathroom and bedroom area in place. Bathroom is about half and half for building in and out of the trailer.
Just so you know, we think planning is over-rated. Nothing ever comes out quite like we thought but still works and looks good to us.


Kay
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:41 AM   #23
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Quote:
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..

While you have the galley out take a close look at the water inlet - it's not sanitary by any means, water sloughing down the shell tries to enter the FW tank. Inspect it for hairline cracks AND BE GENTLE with it, after years of relaxing it wants to jump away from the shell, shattering to hang free.

That FW inlet cover assembly with its double-cut key (that is hard to pick) has value to folks that Joe Somewhen broke into years back, I patched over the entire outside area and sent my cover to Texas, and will use a Marine quality filler inlet when the time comes...
I took a closer look at the inlet and seeing it was plastic, it also had some cracking at the top. But what is really problematic is that it doesnt seem to be a standard 1.5" size, so my new hose wouldnt fit on it. And yes, its not sanitary by any means, there is nothing to stop rainwater or anything else from getting in and going into the tank. My guess is that with all the mildew that was in the tank, that was exactly what was happening for years.

So I ordered a stainless Atwood marine fill today off Amazon Warehouse deals (gotta love the deals they have) for 17 bucks with prime shipping. I'll remove the old door assembly and make a plate to cover it over and secure it with Olympic rivets. This will be my first go around with Olympics so that will be a good small scale test. I'll relocate the tank vent somewhere under the sink, that should be sufficient as long as I mount it higher than the water fill.


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Old 04-25-2014, 06:22 PM   #24
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Water fill upgraded. Documented here: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f443...re-118993.html


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Old 04-25-2014, 06:52 PM   #25
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I really like your new water fill. I have the same original filler on my '82 motorhome. Its brittle and I have "plastered" it with epoxy, but I still have some rain water trickling in. Your solution is what I should do!
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Old 04-26-2014, 08:45 AM   #26
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Quote:
I'll relocate the tank vent somewhere under the sink, that should be sufficient as long as I mount it higher than the water fill.
On the vent - inattentive & well meaning folks have overfilled the FW tank, even to the point of bulging up floor when the stars were aligned... I cringe at the thought of a FW tank vent terminating inside the trailer in a blind location.

If you're familiar with a kitchen dishwasher drain that routes up to under countertop level and back down again to eliminate chances of siphoning standing sink water backwards into the unit... then how about routing the tank vent up to inlet height then back down & through floor to dump onto the person doing the fillings' feet?

Not quite sure how to keep the vent tube opening 110% sanitary, or if such a thing exists for the marine world - thinking maybe a large hose aquarium strainer and/or check valve... ended in a cup penetrating the banana wraps with a screened opening?
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Old 04-26-2014, 04:46 PM   #27
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Yeah, I can understand the worry of that hose just sitting there, In theory, if the end is higher than the fill, excess water has to come out of the fill since it would be lower. I can look into some sort of fitting to put on the end of it. Truthfully though, I doubt we will be using the tank all that much, but I will see if there is any sort of check valve or something that would let air out but stop water.
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Old 05-07-2014, 09:12 PM   #28
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A little bit more progress. I added a vent fitting on the outside of the trailer and got the rivets shaved down with a rivet shaver.



I had to patch in two sections of parquet on the floor that were missing when the PO installed the tiles around the vertical parts of the cabinet. Parquet used to be very popular, but try and go find some today. My brother had done a couple of rooms with it several years ago and as it turns out, still had a bunch left to do one or more rooms. He sent me about 3 sq feet worth and I used it to fill in the bad sections after I removed the old tile and adhesive with an oscillating saw with a flat blade to get underneath each tile. The new tile is darker, but I'm going to sand the whole floor down and re-varnish it so it will all match very soon.





Prepped for the new tiles:





Patched in:





I also got the drawer slides mounted and the face frame test fitted underneath the counter top:






Hopefully will get the face frame sanded and mounted in tomorrow. Thanks for looking.
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