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Old 11-06-2005, 06:02 PM   #1
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Question Paint

I was wondering:
Since someone had at some point in time decided to brush on this lovely shade of blue or green (I am not sure which) The tan is the original color. What are my options now? There are a ton of brush marks and drips. I was thinking of sanding the entire interior down and painting the interior with some sort of paint. I do not wish to use the Zolatone for the reason it is expensive and a pain in the hinny! Any suggestion from some-one else who has had encountered the same problem?
Thanks
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Old 11-11-2005, 05:58 PM   #2
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BB55 I'm glad you brought this up I'm in the same position you are, My thoughts were to have it bead Plasted , My intierior is removed,So I figured the window frames and everything else could be blasted with Plastic bead or Baking soda , I've seen it done to a lot of stuff , it dosen't hurt the glass . I have not priced it yet but I figure it would take it down to square one, and then do it back up the way I want it , the paint I have is about three layers and done with a cement trowel , I did think about sanding it , I'm sure this would be cheeper , but I like the Idea of getting in all the nooks and crannys around the window frames, anybody out there ever done this , or have any other Ideas. Thanks for your time
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Old 11-11-2005, 06:32 PM   #3
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Warp danger -- use on sample first!

Look at post 7 here: http://www.airforums.com/forum...oval-6285.html

And post 25 here: http://www.airforums.com/forum...m-14144-2.html

My experiment with walnut shells produced the warping. My experiment did not overheat the surface. It seems like the warp comes from a burnishing type of effect. The above thread references seem to include plastic beads and baking soda. I'd grab some cheap aluminum flashing at a building supply outlet and let your blasting source prove whether it will warp or not.

Cruise the forums long enough and you will see people that chemically stripped the zolatone -- a lot of work it is! The interior skin does not have a sealant issue like the outer skin joints.
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:29 PM   #4
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What I have leared thus far

I have talked to several paint supply stores and have spent countless hours reading up on the forums here. I have learned that sanding is fine for the removal and beautification of the interior paint. As a matter of fact sanding has been the preferred method of several posts I have read. I am in the processes of removing all of the windows and door openings, that way I can get it real good! So sand with a heavy grid sand paper, about a 50-60 grit. Be careful not to over heat the metal as the previous post mentions. All you have to do is smooth the finish to the quality that you desire, but do not remove all of the original Zolatone, that has the same properties as a base primer. Even though the Zolatone has some properties that a primer has you still need to apply a base coat primmer. Zinnieser and Killz witch one I have heard conflicting reports which is better. So what one is left with is a prepped smooth surface that one can paint a interior HIGH GRADE paint on with a sprayer. The sanding is used to cut the old paint and allow for proper paint bond. So that is what I have learned thus far, any one heard of something different or have done this processes with less than great results let me know!
Thanks all and have a GREAT day!
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Old 11-11-2005, 08:47 PM   #5
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Very good information, thanks. I was hoping to be able to touch up my zolatone, but it doesn't look like that is going to be good enough. I did discover that acetone is a great solvent for 45 year old zolatone.

By high grade paint, were you thinking automotive lacquer? Or just a high priced interior latex.
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Old 11-12-2005, 09:10 AM   #6
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We found a very good range of commercial products at a Sherwin Williams store.
We bought their primer/filler product, and primed the entire interior of our 1963 project. We then sprayed a few coats of a very scrubbable interior paint, similar in composition as the water based zolatone product. It's formualtion specifically made it suitable for painting aluminum surfaces.The results were outstanding.
I found that it is very important to prep the surface properly, and use excellent spray equipment. A cheap spray gun at first caused me quite a bit of extra work. We ended up renting an airless sprayer, and brought he pressure down as low as possible to avoid line streaks where the strokes overlap. A new fluid tip is essential! Do not use an old or worn fluid tip, it will cause drips and problems that drove me to drinking! Later we decided to apply a faux finish with a sea sponge and silver glaze. This is optional, but any texture will almost totally hide skin imperfections and rivets.
I believe the finish in a 1955 was monochromatic, not multi-colored zolatone. I could be mistaken, however.
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:46 PM   #7
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Paint

You brought an important thought! I know that I need to take as much of that blue paint that I have over the original Zolatone as I can with a sander. I am 99.9% certain that the tan color is the original Zolatone because I fund it on most of the original rivets and beneath the window frames. Since I spent a Year in the Coast Guard as a non-rated deck hand, final prep is OH SO important. Once we sanded any surface on went the denatured alcohol by the gallon with rags. I think there are several commercial products available through most paint supply stores that have a more application specific purpose. I will have to look into it. 65GT has a very good point unless I clean the dust and dirt off of the prepped surfaces, the paint will stick to the dirt and dust more that the prepared surfaces causing voids that will let the paint fail rapidly. Plus DO NOT forget the primer before the final coat. I mentioned “high grade paint" in a previous post, that paint should be an oil-based pain to allow some flex with the trailer when towing. Look out for cracks with water based. I was also thinking what about filler? I know that there is some sort of flexible and sand able calk that is on the market anyone have any brand names that they can through out?
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Old 11-14-2005, 09:56 PM   #8
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Uwe,

Do you have part numbers for the primer-surfacer you got at Sherwin Williams?
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Old 10-20-2006, 06:57 PM   #9
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Exclamation Look at what I found

This link will route you to a web site that has a insulated ceramic product that is sprayed on. I was thinking that this could be used as an interior prep that can be painted over. It goes on as thick as a credit card. One idea but I thought I would throw it out there for debate.
Beau
http://www.lizardskin.com/
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Old 10-20-2006, 07:19 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BB 55 Bubble
This link will route you to a web site that has a insulated ceramic product that is sprayed on. I was thinking that this could be used as an interior prep that can be painted over. It goes on as thick as a credit card. One idea but I thought I would throw it out there for debate.
Beau
http://www.lizardskin.com/
I would have two questions, and others may have some as well.
1. Is it flexible enough?
2. How heavy is it? I'm thinking of bedliner type material - I've heard that it adds a lot of weight. I don't know if this is similar??
If those issues aren't a problem, I would say it sounds interesting.
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Old 10-21-2006, 10:30 PM   #11
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Lizard skin update.

I received an info packet from a sales rep and it says that the product is flexible, how much I don’t know. As far as weight I’m not sure either. The product goes on at about .040 in thick and a 2 gallon container covers 46-50 Sq feet. At a cost of $189.00 for the 2 gallon container it might be a little steep in price, I'll have to compare that to Zolotone and some of the other higher grade paints available that I was going to originally use. It says that it is "lightweight". I have an E-mail into the rep requesting some more technical data. The original design for the product is for classic cars so possibly there is enough flex for the AS. We will see ill follow up when the rep does.
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Old 10-22-2006, 08:01 AM   #12
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If 2 gallons of that paint covers 50Sq' that's like 20lbs, do the math now do the cost, that's like $4 a sq', you can do a lot of other things for $4',
just my 2cents

Did you talk to a Sherwin Williams rep, I don't see why you can't prime and spray/roll with an acrylic paint, you're making a simple task complicated.
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Old 10-22-2006, 10:44 AM   #13
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Insulation

The product is a sound/heat insulating product. It might prove in the long run to be a pain in the rump if I need to remove any interior skins but it will smooth the rivets and other metal imperfections, leaving a nice smooth paint-able surface. I know it is high buck but it will add R factor and will quiet the outside a bit plus it seals the interior (not sure if this is good or bad but I can always add small vents for condensation). Plus it has a class A fire rating(makes the trailer into a nice brick oven )
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:07 PM   #14
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Lizard skin on the inside bad idea!

Check out this new thread I started. I think that the application of this product is better suited in a different application.
http://www.airforums.com/forum...kin-27192.html
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