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Old 03-22-2014, 06:48 PM   #15
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1962 19' Globetrotter
Winchester , Ontario
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Did the '69's have a switch for the air compressor to pressurize the water tank? My '62 has the old steel tank with the compressor and switch, and it is in this location (well, between the front window and the door). The 12v one sure looks like the TV and antenna socket.
Don't ya love a mystery?
Leonie
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Old 03-23-2014, 01:20 PM   #16
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1969 25' Tradewind
Cypress , Texas
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I've without question figured out the forward most switch, the 12v outlet and dual socket is definitely the TV antenna I got on top to fix a leak and find out how much of the antenna was still there to be removed. Found quite the sculpture, lol,
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So I just patched it up, the blue is just a bit of silicone to ensure the rivets don't cause an issue.
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Old 03-23-2014, 02:39 PM   #17
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1976 27' Overlander
Tampa , Florida
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You mean "sealant" or "silicone".... you do know Silicone is a big no-no, right?

Did you use pop rivets on that patch?
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Old 03-27-2014, 11:45 AM   #18
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1969 25' Tradewind
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixter View Post
You mean "sealant" or "silicone".... you do know Silicone is a big no-no, right?

Did you use pop rivets on that patch?
Pop rivets are all I've got, so I filled the center tube of the rivet with RTV. I was under the belief that the newer RTV formulas only contain enough acetic acid to etch the aluminum whereas the older formulas contained too much free acid and would cause an electrolysis issue that I am all too familiar with from my experience with aluminum Coast Guard boats. Admittedly I switched all the possible uses for Silicone over to 3M 5200 on the boats but I don't think it'll hurt. However I will drill the rivets if there's a more effective route and if I'm dead wrong about the lower acid levels I'll scrape the RTV as well. This is my first Airstream as an adult I want to do a good job on it, the 1971 Airstream I bought at 17yrs old I'm sure I botched everything on.
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:47 PM   #19
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1976 27' Overlander
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Check out vintagetrailersupply.com and look at their sealant and rivet selection.

For sealant, I think you'll find an overwhelming majority opposition to using anything other than a polyurethane sealant, and more specifically vulkem, sikaflex or equivalent. I think most are using Vulkem, or a current version of it. It is a commercial grade of polyurethane sealant, so I found an equivalent I like at a local contractors sealant and adhesive supply store near me. VTS sells the vulkem/ trempro. There are also other favorites such as sikaflex. Then there is sealant designed for the "small" seams like parbond or Acryl-R. That said, I use my polyurethane sealant for everything.

For Rivets: Most people are using the Olympic rivets if there is no access to the back side. They are water tight pop- style/ blind rivets that match the original rivets when shaved. You can shave them with a dremel in lieu of the matching shaver tool.

That said, using solid rivets is a factory fix. Its not that hard, and can be used in many areas as things get fixed and/ or replaced. This requires access to the back side, which means you many have to take apart a few things on the inside, but its a nice way to go if it is reasonable. To do solid rivets you'll need a riveting hammer and a bucking bar and a helper. I bought my riveting hammer from Harbor Freight for around $60 with coupon. Not sure if they still offer it- last I looked I didnt see it. You can also try ebay to pick up a used "pro" gun for less than $100. Official bucking bar is around $15 I think. But a nice heavy piece of iron works just fine.

Have fun and keep us posted.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:00 PM   #20
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1969 25' Tradewind
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Great info, harbor Freight is right down the road I'll look into the rivets. As for the Sealant I've got some more work to do around the base and on the front of the unit I'll definitely look to something like what you're talking about. This is a fun project that I look forward to camping with. Thanks again for your insight and help.
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