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Old 08-25-2013, 07:03 PM   #1
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Silverbee's Avatar
2015 28' Flying Cloud
2012 25' Flying Cloud
2007 20' Safari SE
Fuquay Varina , North Carolina
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Posts: 334
My Closet Shelving Solution

Wanted to add shelving to my closet-2012 Flying Cloud 25 ft. rear bedroom. The side walls are too thin to put screws through the shelving holders. Saw lots of posts with the shelves installed in the hanging closet but no real details on just how they did it. This closet will waste a lot of space with just the hanging rod. Deb has the larger closet beside the shower(as it should be, of course). Here is how I did it(with pictures).

1. Purchase two 2ft. x 4 ft. sections of 1/8" White Board(got mine at HD)
2. Purchase an adequate supply of 1"x2" pine - preferably pre-painted white.
3. Determine the depth of wire shelving you need and purchase that(got mine from Lowe's). I used 20" deep and 16" deep.
4. Take a sheet of newspaper-you will need to tape two sheets together to cover the length of the closet.
5. Tape the newspaper to one sidewall of the closet-butting the straight edge up against the front side of the wall and positioning the top edge whereever you choose to have the top of your template to reach. I went to just under the bottom of the hangar as I chose not to remove it.
6. With your fingernail, or a razor knife, follow the back edge of the curved closet wall. This will cut the paper to the exact shape of the wall you need to duplicate.
7. Remove the newspaper and lay the cut template on your first piece of white board with the white side facing up. Trace the outline of the template on the whiteboard.
8. With a sabre saw, cut out the whiteboard following the outline.
9. When the first side is cut, flip it over and place it on top of the other piece of whiteboard, trace the outline on to the whiteboard This will create a mirror image for the opposite sidewall of the closet.
10. Cut this piece out with the sabre saw.
11. Determine the vertical position you desire for your shelves and pencil in a line using a square to ensure that they will be level.
12. Measure the length required for your shelf supports(the 1"x2" pine) and subtract at least 3/4" so that the lip of your wire shelves will fit down over the supports in the front.
13. Cut the shelf supports. Line them up under your pencil lines, glue and clamp them to the whiteboard.
14. Turn the whiteboard over after allowing drying time. Glue and screw 3/4" flat head screws from the back into the shelf supports.
15. Position the whiteboards into the sides of your closet.
16. Cut your wire shelving to fit with a bolt cutter. Install plastic protectors on the cut wire rods.
17. Using some angled positioning, install the shelves. You may need to position and hold the top shelf in place prior to placing the sides in the closet.
You then have customized, totally secure shelving in your closet without the need to drill through the sidewalls.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:10 PM   #2
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2011 25' FB Flying Cloud
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Nice but why didn't you remove the rod? Haven't put shelves in mine but I did remove the worthless rod.

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Old 08-25-2013, 07:18 PM   #3
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2015 28' Flying Cloud
2012 25' Flying Cloud
2007 20' Safari SE
Fuquay Varina , North Carolina
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Actually I found the rod good for hanging shoes upside down over the rod keeping them out of the way. I believe I can remove it any time in the future and may do so later. Thanks.
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Old 08-25-2013, 07:36 PM   #4
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Berlin , Maryland
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Thanks for the detail description on hou you did your selves.
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Old 08-25-2013, 08:55 PM   #5
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2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
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Virginia Beach , Virginia
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Posts: 5,678
Nice work

Now just a thought. If you do more shelving - especially if it's not going to go all the way to the front of a cabinet door - turn the shelf lip UP. Than way your stuff won't cascade forward off the shelf due to vibration when underway. I've been wanting to put in a cup shelf in cabinet over the sink in my new EB. Was planning to us the same shelving you did, but lip up - and let the cup lie on their sides with the handles between the rungs on the shelving. When underway, a bungee cord through the handles would keep them ON the shelf. I'll have to cut the shelving width down, so I'll have to check if the center brace on the shelf will be the right length and still let the sliding doors operate freely.

The inside "sidewalls" of all the cabinets are made out of 1/8 whiteboard already. One had screw holes but no screws (a place where the P.O. hid his weed?) So I know I can remove them and screw & glue the braces on. This cabinet is about 50 inches long. I'll need some kind of center brace. Might just make one from 1/2 inch plywood & snip the shelving to attach it to each side.

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Old 09-17-2014, 10:18 AM   #6
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Hemingford , Nebraska
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Old 09-26-2015, 01:50 PM   #7
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Park City , Utah
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Old 09-28-2015, 09:40 AM   #8
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Hemingford , Nebraska
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I didn't read this carefully the first time and planned this setup for the large wardrobe, as well. My concern would be accessing the water pump under that wardrobe. Has anyone else tried this and found a workaround? Would it just mean no shelves (or removable shelves) in the last two feet at the bottom?
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:02 AM   #9
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Thanks for the info Silverbee! This is how I will do my shelves when my closets go back in

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