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Old 06-20-2008, 06:48 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
The inner dome is not attached to the outer dome, except at the rib where the straight shell meets the end caps. What's more, the plastic inside end caps are not very rigid--I don't think they provide significant strutural strength and you can do without them.

On the other hand, the interior skins, riveted to the ribs, do provide added structural stiffness. Not half, by any means, but it's significant. I don't think you'd want to routinely tow an Airstream without interior skins. The exception would be a gutted Airstream--very light, so you wouldn't need the added strength from the interior skin. A few members have used their gutted Airstreams as aluminum "tents" and have not reported any trouble.

Zep
Thanks for the info. We would put the inner skins all back in, except for the two end dome pieces (that would include the bathroom) after replacing the insulation. So it seems (if it wouldn't hurt anything structurally) it might be possible to just cover the dome area's with the Denny Foil or even make something like a paper mache dome ourselves. I know it sounds funny but with MCS you have to rig with the materials that your body does well with, even if its something others wouldn't think of using. Right now I have Denny Foil in place of carpet over the plywood sub floor in my bedroom. I have laid a beautiful quilt over it for a little protection and it is working great! Doesn't make me sick and seals the plywood.

Is there a link for anywhere to know what the order of steps would be and the how to's to totally gut our Airstream down to the studs? It sounds like drilling out the rivets of the inside skins and removing them is first, then the plywood floor? Everything else is already out. We also want to remove all the tanks. I guess you would say we want to go beyond just gutting and strip it down to just the outside shell. Thanks
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:34 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pilgrimsouth View Post
...Is there a link for anywhere to know what the order of steps would be and the how to's to totally gut our Airstream down to the studs? It sounds like drilling out the rivets of the inside skins and removing them is first, then the plywood floor? Everything else is already out. We also want to remove all the tanks. I guess you would say we want to go beyond just gutting and strip it down to just the outside shell. Thanks
I don't think anyone has posted a checklist on a method for orderly gutting an Airstream. Once all the cabinetry is out, just start taking skins out by drilling out the pop rivets with a 1/8" bit (or #30 to be precise, which is slightly larger). Getting the center skin along the ceiling out is a little tricky. If you're going to remove all the skins anyway, you can remove one of the rails that run along the edge of this skin after you take down the lower skins--makes it much easier.

I replaced my plastic end caps completely. You can see details on this thread, starting at post #64 on page 5.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f421...ion-37609.html
I don't recommend this method, way too complicated and required a tool to slightly shrink the edges of the panels. It is, however, a way to completely replace the plastic and get a very strong dome at the same time. You can use this example as an idea of how to cut panels to fit. 62Overlander used one additional panel on each side, I believe, and got a nice fit without having to curve the edges.

Zep
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Old 06-20-2008, 08:42 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post

I replaced my plastic end caps completely. You can see details on this thread, starting at post #64 on page 5.
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f421...ion-37609.html
I don't recommend this method, way too complicated and required a tool to slightly shrink the edges of the panels. It is, however, a way to completely replace the plastic and get a very strong dome at the same time. You can use this example as an idea of how to cut panels to fit. 62Overlander used one additional panel on each side, I believe, and got a nice fit without having to curve the edges.

Zep
Zep, thanks for a nice summery of replacing end caps and the relevant links. I'm considering doing this too and the hints and pointers here is most helpful.
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:01 AM   #18
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... Everything else is already out. We also want to remove all the tanks. ...
BTW, save the tanks--others might be able to use them if they are in good shape.

I forgot to remark on removing the flooring. The shell is tied tightly to the outriggers through the flooring, so you have to remove all the bolts in the "C" channel. If you try to take the floor out one sheet at a time, you'll find that the shell is extremely stiff--you can take out all the bolts forward of the wheel wells and still only move the shell about 1/8"! At least that was my experience with my '77 Safari. You'll also have to remove quite a few rivets from the steel holdown plates fore and aft (I believe your '66 has these). I inadvertently left one partially drilled out rivet in place and couldnt figure out for hours why I couldn't budge the shell. One rivet!

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Old 06-21-2008, 10:27 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
BTW, save the tanks--others might be able to use them if they are in good shape.

I forgot to remark on removing the flooring. The shell is tied tightly to the outriggers through the flooring, so you have to remove all the bolts in the "C" channel. If you try to take the floor out one sheet at a time, you'll find that the shell is extremely stiff--you can take out all the bolts forward of the wheel wells and still only move the shell about 1/8"! At least that was my experience with my '77 Safari. You'll also have to remove quite a few rivets from the steel holdown plates fore and aft (I believe your '66 has these). I inadvertently left one partially drilled out rivet in place and couldnt figure out for hours why I couldn't budge the shell. One rivet!

Zep
Well, this is where you will see our ignorance at pure Airstream terms

We really want to do this right so want to ask the following questions:

1. By "shell" are you meaning what we are calling outside skin?

2. What are "outriggers" and what do they do and where are they?

3. What is the C Channel and where is it?

4. Is there some sort of schematic for an Airstream?

5. What does that mean that the shell is stiff? And, that it will only move 1/8"? Are you meaning that if all the bolts were taken out forward of the wheel well that the Airstream shell would still stay in place but for a 1/8" shift?

Please forgive our total ignorance with this, we did not take our other two Airstream's (15 years ago-and no longer have them) down to the studs or take out the bathroom. This is going to be another world from what we did before, but it will be much healthier when we are finished. We hope to begin the project in the next few weeks after we get settled a bit from our recent move. We want to have as clear of an understanding of what to do "before" we start. We appreciate all the help and welcome more!!!
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Old 06-21-2008, 10:32 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Zeppelinium View Post
BTW, save the tanks--others might be able to use them if they are in good shape.

I forgot to remark on removing the flooring......

Zep
I just realized you were from Colorado! We just moved from Colorado Springs to Greenville, SC!!!!
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:22 AM   #21
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When replacing flooring do we have to lift the frame?

Thanks for all the links to see how things are done. In looking at the floor removal posts on other threads it seems they are lifting the frame up to put new floor in. Is that the "only" way to replace the plywood?
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:43 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the links to see how things are done. In looking at the floor removal posts on other threads it seems they are lifting the frame up to put new floor in. Is that the "only" way to replace the plywood?
You won't need to lift the frame. You will need to detach the shell either all at once or in sections.

Basically, there are two schools or methods of practice on floor replacement: shell-on and shell-off. You should be able to find examples of both techniques in the threads. Shell-off floor replacement involves lifting the shell slightly off the frame but just enough to replace the floor. This way the floor can usually be replaced in whole sections minimizing seams.

The shell-on method on the other hand is usually done section by section. Of course the shell still has to be detached at the floor channel but this is done in steps rather than all at once. For example some have found it is possible to replace the end sections in whole sheets by sliding the sheets into place from the outside inward. In the middle section the plywood is usually replaced working from the interior in sections and requires a splice.
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Old 06-21-2008, 11:58 AM   #23
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This is definitely not my specialist field but have you already found the company that does this work as their main business? The name escapes me at the moment but I found their site when I was searching for custom airstream bathroom reno ideas. They seemed to have a pretty good handle on the materials and design aspect, I thought I'd bookmarked a picture of one of their projects but just can't find it; it was all stainless steel showerpans and the like. Maybe they could give you some ideas for flooring alternatives etc..
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Old 06-21-2008, 12:25 PM   #24
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This may be a dumb quesion but...

Can you get the belly pan off from the botom?
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Old 06-21-2008, 07:05 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by pilgrimsouth View Post
Can you get the belly pan off from the botom?
that's the only way to get it off--drill out the rivets from below. Some models have pans/frames that hold up the tanks--they are bolted, so you may have to remove bolts, also.

You'll find it much easier if you raise the trailer 10" or so and block it up (safely).

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Old 06-21-2008, 09:09 PM   #26
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Well I Googled to find that MCS = Multiple Chemical Sensitivity.
I wish you well, seems like an enormous task, but I guess it is absolutely necessary.

In my days here a few years back I recall a woman who was trying to make her Airstream likewise to what you are doing. Not sure of her ailment/s but I think her name was Silver Suzy or silversuz etc. As I recall she just disappeared from the forums never revealing the outcome. You might search for her posts.

Best of luck of course.
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Old 06-21-2008, 09:30 PM   #27
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Explore this..

I really feel for those with these sensitivity problems.
You all may be trying to reinvent the wheel in your efforts to sanitize you Airstream and search for info. These mods have been done many times already. I have watched my friends at North Dallas RV do several of these complete modifications. Very complete and professional. One lady...I don't know her name ...has had a couple of rare Vintage Airstreams done. A very spartan looking living space when completed, but it provides a safe space to be in.
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:13 PM   #28
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OK, I have to ask. With MCS how will you deal with all that you will be exposed to during your renovation project? I would think it would make you deathly ill. Also I hope I'm not being too forward but, what happens in a campground when ther are campfires galore burning all through the place? I can't imagine the smoke wouldn't bother you.
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