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Old 01-28-2005, 12:06 PM   #15
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1973 Argosy 20
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I'm definitly looking for the 'design on a dime' solution. Malconium's peel-and-stick stuff is very expensive and way out of my budget. I like the raw aluminum route...I've ordered it from "Aircraft Spruce" before. Just order exactly what you need. I think that their shipping was resonable:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/me/index.html

You should be able to use a spray contact adhesive(after a good cleaning) or simply brush it on and get a great hold. I bet that a construction or panel adhesive would work well too but you would have to let it dry under pressure. I'm more concerned with getting the aluminum to fit under the edges of a overhead doors edging. Has anybody experimented with taking the door apart and laminating the 1/4" panels? What thickness have you tried? I thought maybe I would have to belt sand the panel a little thinner to make it work, no? I don't mind having to polish raw aluminum, or put a brushed finish on it and spay it with a clear matt (or satin) finish.

I'll probably mix the diamond plate and plain aluminum in different areas. I might like the "quilted" aluminum look behind the stove too. By the way Outwater has a ton of stuff in the catalog that I don't see on the website, but like has been said that's top dollar and their shipping isn't cheap.

After having seen the .024 tread plate I might test it on a step but I'm not too confident that it would hold up half as well as the next (solid) thicker size. Doesn't the ebay guy have a .040 size? My 2 folding steps fold up really snug together so I'd have to test first if they would still work with added plates on top.

Steve
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:56 PM   #16
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I received samples of the Chemetal laminates, and I can say they are awesome. The price might be too high for my use in a major way, but the aluminum finishes are fabulous, and would look really good on my countertops, and instead of the wood grain wall trimmed areas. However, most of my interior is in such good shape, a major redo is uneccesary. I hope to do the entry door, and some other trim work.
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Old 01-28-2005, 01:58 PM   #17
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ebay guy got back to me. Can't get .025 in plain sheets or coils. He can get mill and mirror finish in .040 with or without the diamond plate. Unforetunately this would be way to expensive for my little project.

I do like his products for things like stair treads and other areas of the interior.

Looks like it's back to figuring out how to adhere .010 flashing to the walls. At least it's cheap!
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Old 01-28-2005, 02:20 PM   #18
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Aluminum Prices

Quote:
Originally Posted by swebster
ebay guy got back to me. Can't get .025 in plain sheets or coils. Looks like it's back to figuring out how to adhere .010 flashing to the walls. At least it's cheap!

Just got home after picking up some Aluminum sheeting - they rolled a 4' X 12' sheet of 2024 T3 .025 Alclad up into a coil about 10" in diameter for transport in the van, I am certain it could be easily mailed. Total weight of the sheet of .025 was 17.487 lbs, at $7.50 per lb - a bit over $130.

I also picked up a couple of 4X4 and 4X6 sheets of .032 and .040 - same grade - the "drops" each had a few scratches on one side, price on them was $5.00 per lb.

Might be an alternative.
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Old 01-28-2005, 04:07 PM   #19
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Some thoughts...

Aluminum:

I took a look at the Aircraft Spruce site and found some interesting information. I already knew that they had a good explaination of the different types of aluminum which can be viewed at the following location:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...s/aluminfo.php

One thing that I found in looking at the pricing for the various types of sheet was that you can buy grade 3003H-14 sheet 0.020 thick in a 4' x 12' sheet for only $39.80. I am including the description of 3003 from the above page here for reference:

3003 This is the most widely used of all aluminum alloys. It is essentially commercially pure aluminum with the addition of manganese which increases the strength some 20% over the 1100 grade. Thus, it has all the excellent characteristics of 1100 with higher strength. It has excellent corrosion resistance. It has excellent workability and it may be deep drawn or spun, welded or brazed. It is non heat treatable. Applications: cooking utensils, decorative trim, awnings, siding, storage tanks, chemical equipment.

This stuff sounds like it would be just fine for interior use doesn't it?

Glue:

I would guess that contact cement of the type used with plastic laminate counter tops would work with aluminum. The trick would be that you would only have one chance to get the positioning right. The new type, while more expensive, also no longer has the totally obnoxious oder that the older stuff had. I redid my kitchen counter tops (in my house not my AS) relatively recently and used some and was very plesently surprised about the oder. I bought a gallon of it from Lowes for something like $25 if I recall correctly. It took about 10 to 15 minutes to dry to the point of being ready to assemble and realy grabs.

Another alternative that I know would hold to aluminum is Polyurethane glue. I was trying to get stick-on wire clamp brackets to attach to the inside of my outer skin. The skin was damp and cold. The adhesive on the stick-on tabs was not sticking. I already knew that the Polyurethane glue required moisture to set so it occurred to me to try using some on the wire attachments. It does indeed stick to wet/cold aluminum. Of course this means the surface would have to be lightly misted if it was not wet. The trick is that it takes a few hours to set up. In the case of my wire tabs as long as I did not attach the wire bundles until the glue set all was well. The tabs were light enough and the glue had enough suction to stick in place - even on the ceiling - while the glue set up.

So the big question would be how to hold a sheet in place long enough for the glue to set up. That of course assumes that the new sheets would be held on only with the glue. In general most of the aluminum sheets have to be flexed to fit the curve of the inner panels where they are going to be attached. My guess is that as long as the alumuminum is stiff enough that it could be held in place at a couple of places near their mid points and the springyness of the metal would hold it in place elsewhere. Maybe a simple brace from the opposite surface (floor or wall) would work. How about something like the adjustable work support that Harbor Freight carries:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=34897

Malcolm
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