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Old 07-24-2007, 10:50 PM   #1
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1981 31' Excella II
Richmond , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Intermittent 12v elec problem & solution

Hi Folks,
My '81 Excella II developed an intermittent 12v problem 2 days before we were to embark on a 3000 mi vacation.
We thought a ghost had taken up residence. One minute the lights would work, the next minute they were out. LIkewise the entire monitor system.

My battery checked out at 12.83v and we were plugged into house currrent also.

We went an replaced all the fuses...BUT when I fooled with the 50A fuse, the lights flickered.
In 5 minutes I determined that the rivet that holds the bottom clamp for the 50A fuse was loose and not making contact with the metal strip to which all the 15 and 20A fuses are attached.
Not wanting to pound the rived (for fear of breaking something else,) I fabricated a solution work-a-round.
I took a 3" piece of #10 copper wire and wedged it behind the bottom of the 50A fuse and bent it into a 'U" and wedged the other end behind the adjacent 20A. fuse.

Admittedly, this was not the 'official way to do the job, but when you are pressed for time, do what is sufficient, is my motto.

Hopefully, this tidbit will help some other member address a similar problem.

I suppose if I took it to an RV repair shop, I would have been faced wtih a humongous bill for diagnosis, but they would have insisted on replacing the entire Univolt system.

Keep Smiling..

Bob and Gail

1981 Excella II 31'
2001 F-250 crew 8' w/ Pullrite hitch.
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Old 07-24-2007, 10:59 PM   #2
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1986 32' Excella
2014 Interstate Ext. Coach
Citrus Heights , California
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Good Info Bob: thanks.
I'm real interested in your feedback on the Pullrite hitch. Looks like a sweet setup.
Have you tried drilling the rivet out? Sometimes you need to hold the rivet head with a pair of needle nose vise grips to keep it from spinning.
I'm guessing your panel is on the front wall behind the groucho? not the best location for maintainence.
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Old 07-24-2007, 11:21 PM   #3
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1981 31' Excella II
Richmond , Texas
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Loose rivet problem and Pullrite eval

Thanks for the tip ondrilling out the loose rivet. Will attempt after I return home.

I just purchased the F-250 in April and it already had the Pullrite.
For 20 years I have towed closed trailers with my 1937 Packards. It has always been a nightmare with 18wheelers coming up and pushing me around.
Since I have the PUllrite, I am oblivious to the 18 wheelers. Towing now is such a relaxing activity...

EXCEPT......

The fact the the PUllrite pivots directly behind the rear axle, simulating a 5th wheel arrangement. Accordingly, the trailer tracks inside the tow track, so you have to swing much wider....and I still have much practicing to do in backing it up.

There are other plusses and minuses...
You can swing the ball all the way to the drivers side and back right up to the trailer with no help, but then it is a challenge to attach the torsion bars, especially if you are on a down hill slope.

Another GReat Plus is that the drawbar is long and allows full loweringof a truck tail gate to load or unload the bed of the truck.
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Old 07-25-2007, 06:29 AM   #4
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Another good idea for the "aw crap" box is a 2 foot length of #12 (or #10) wire, with a covered alligator clip on each end. It would serve the same purpose as what you did, without the possibility of damaging a fuse holder with the wire. The clips cost about a buck a pair. Just clip 'em on, and bypass the problem area.
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Old 07-29-2007, 11:01 AM   #5
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Univolts and fusebox changeouts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ole81
Hi Folks,
My '81 Excella II developed an intermittent 12v problem 2 days before we were to embark on a 3000 mi vacation...In 5 minutes I determined that the rivet that holds the bottom clamp for the 50A fuse was loose and not making contact with the metal strip to which all the 15 and 20A fuses are attached.
Keep Smiling..

Bob and Gail

1981 Excella II 31'
2001 F-250 crew 8' w/ Pullrite hitch.
Thanks for posting this. That was a great trick to lever the fuse block conection!

I too had the same problem with rivets in the Univolt. I'm replaceing the entire Univolt and have found many people keep the fuse box when installing a new converter. This is a problem waiting to happen. I took one of the univolts apart and found considerable corrosion between the contacting surface built up and causing a high resistance = heat and loss of power. The expedient I used was to spray the rivets with Electromotive motor/contact cleaner and center tap them lightly. Upon my return to base we changed out the whole mess including the fusebox culprit. I've posted a pic with the offending rivets highlighted.
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