Hi everyone-
I am trying to paint the endcaps of my 1971 TradeWind. The rear is fiberglass and the front is plastic. I washed them, and sanded them with 120 girt sand paper, then I washed them again.
I primed them both with Kilz premium primer (water based). The fiber glass looks great. The paint did not stick to the plastic in the front. It just scratched right off!
Did I not sand the front well enough? Did I use the wrong Kilz product???
Joshua,
The endcap that the paint didn't stick to is probably ABS the only thing that is going to stick will be something like Krylon Fusion paint. You will have to get all of the Kilz off of there first, before using the Krylon.
Good Luck
Aaron
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You will have to get all of the Kilz off of there first...
Thanks Aaron-
I was afraid you'd say that
I spent the better part of this afternoon sanding off all the kilz. So I guess I will stop by the paint shop tommorow and pick up the krylon primer. Can I paint latex over the krylon?
Also, would you happen to know if I can use the krylon to prime bare Al? I stripped all the vynil off my walls, and I would like to paint them too.
1994 30' Excella
Currently Looking...
Milwaukee
, Wisconsin
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,935
Krylon Fusion is a spray paint formulated for plastic. You do not want to use this for a primer. Check in at a local Sherwin-Williams or any other large commercial paint store. Tell them what you want to cover and get their suggestion as to which primer you are to use. There is a primer which will stick to ABS plastic but I can not remember its name. Stay way from the Home depots and other large box stores when doing this type of painting, go to an expert.
Good luck to you.
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Chaplain Kent
Forest River Forester 2501TS
I painted the entire interior on my MH. As a plastics finishing technical sales rep I did a great deal of testing with various coatings. For safety I wanted to use a 100% water reducible system. I would caution anyone from using alkyd (oil) based primers as they tend to dry out over time. The system I finally used was from Sherwin Williams. The products are not available from the house paint stores but from the Chemical Coatings division and must be sprayed. I tried many types of cleaners but found the only way to remove the stickiness was to use a strong solvent. Laquer thinner. Stubborn areas were hit with some acetone. Alcohol might also work. Use many rags so not to contaminate clean areas. I then used a scotch brite pad to knock the sheen off the woodgrain vinyl clad aluminum. This vinyl clad presented the greatest adhesion challenge. I then applied by spray a coat of bonding primer for plastics.(only to the wood grain vinyl clad aluminum) Areas that need filling were coated with a coat of water reducible sprayfil and sanded. I allowed that to dry for an hour then applied a coat of Polane 700T. This is a texturable single component water based urethane designed for the plastics and electronics industry. It also, has to be sprayed. I like the look of the light texture so I then textured over the top. I will have pictures up shortly for those who are interested to review. I took my time testing and did many sample areas using various potential systems and found the best results were with the aforementioned system. I had painted the headliner a couple of years ago and have no signs of failure. This finish is hard and stain resistant. I can post technical data pages on the products to those who are interested. Alot of work but does it ever look good. No more bedroom dungeon from that hidious fake brown vinyl. I have many pictures posted.
So, I met with the paint people at Kelly Moore Paint in Boulder. They recommended that I prime everything with BIN primer. I tested a small patch and it seemed to work nicely. I primed it yesterday and painted it this afternoon. It looks good...I hope it is sticking this time...
Hey all, I'm reading your thread and need help with two subjects that are discussed. First, how can I be sure I have ABS end caps? I have a 1983, 31' Sovereign. There are some cracks in the end caps that I was going to stop with a drilled hole and a fix with a two part epoxie. Then I want to paint them. I've seen Bin but thought it was the same thing as Kilz. What did you use after the Bin primer?
Second, I want to paint the wood grain vinyl walls but mine are wood panel type. Will Kilz work oon these?
Hey all,
Last year I painted the front end cap in my '74 with satin Krylon Fusion (Dover White). It turned out great and has held up well for over a year. I used Scotch Brite pads to rough it up initially put on 3-4 coats, then lightly sanded the finished product slightly with fine Scotch Brite (I didn't want any gloss at all). I'll post some pics soon...
The photos look great. I did use Krylon for the entertainment center and the molded interior of the medicine cabinet, both of which which I removed. They look very nice, but the overspray was no fun. We want to paint the yellowed endcaps, overhead storage, tambours, and other yellowed ABS, but I do not want to remove them. On the other hand, There may be no way to do this without using spray.
Has anyone used a brush or roll on technique that is acceptable?
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1983 Classic 310 Motorhome.
AIR 15765
I am new to all of this. We just bought a 77 Excella and need to redo it. Am I reading this correctly, should the ABS end caps, walls and the wood looking like interior be painted with the Krylon Fusion as well? I assume the Krylon Fusion is available as a primer and a paint?? Any advice would be appreciated.
Please share how to remove the vinyl off the walls
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshuaTonbo
Thanks Aaron-
I was afraid you'd say that
I spent the better part of this afternoon sanding off all the kilz. So I guess I will stop by the paint shop tommorow and pick up the krylon primer. Can I paint latex over the krylon?
Also, would you happen to know if I can use the krylon to prime bare Al? I stripped all the vynil off my walls, and I would like to paint them too.
Thank you for your help
Joshua
Hi, can you please tell me what method you used to remove the vinyl from the interior? Thanks bunches.
I just finished painting the interior of our Sovereign with two new products from Sherwin Williams. Everything turned out amazing. We did some tests and no scratching, bubbling, or peeling. Although we no longer have our end caps, I did paint our vista shade housings using a cabinet roller and the paint stayed on and turned out nice too. However they cracked upon re-installation and I ended up going another direction. The primer and paint are low voc.
Momo- nice endcap upgrade. Not to hijack this thread..... but which method did you use for the interior segmented endcap installation? Do you have more pics and details?
Momo- nice endcap upgrade. Not to hijack this thread..... but which method did you use for the interior segmented endcap installation? Do you have more pics and details?
This may help,there is a DIY airstream on YouTube and they are fully restoring a 70's airstream trailer. I think episode3-1 is painting the bathroom and 4-1 is painting the walls. It helped me out and he rolled the paint on. I hope this helps you.
Awesome stuff. I spent a little while going through your remodel pics. I'm doing the exact same thing to '76 27 ft Overlander. At about the same stage too. Great job- I'll be watching!
Mic
Hi Jennifer. I had a quick look at your blog. Looks like you are well on the way! The SW primer you used looks like a great product. I used their Corothane-mioaluminum as a primer, but it is an industrial product and not for the faint of heart! It worked great however. Glad to see there is a latex product now available.
I'm curious on the foil insulation you chose. Is it the double layer reflectix? I'm using that on a Wells Cargo trailer that I'm doing for a client, but not sure on R value for use in my current Airstream project. What product are you using, and what is its R value? I'll also second the question on the end caps... Did you use Larry B's technique? That's my plan...
redthies: We used one layer of reflective and one layer of recycle jean material.
The reflective is taped on the sides so there air pockets between it and the shell. Then we used 3m spray glue to attach the recycled jean to the reflective. Our R-Value is 13. Our trailer sits directly in the sun here in Georgia and with all the windows open we noticed that the trailer stays cool.
I am not sure who Larry B is here on the Airforum. However, I did read a lot of techniques posted here and pictures on google.
I will look into the denim. I've seen it before but never priced it out. R13 is very good given the space we have to work with. A standard 2x4 wall using fibreglass pink only sees R12.
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