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Old 08-20-2012, 12:21 AM   #1
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Long Beach , California
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Insulation replacement?

Couldn't find a sub-forum for this topic...

What would be the recommended insulation replacement? I have seen photos of white foam, pink foam, bubble types (prodex?) of insulation. Although people who have installed the bubble foil type of insulation seem to feel that this was the best choice.

The big box stores don't seem to have the pink foam boards (at least in Calif.) I have a hard time thinking that the thinner bubble foil type provides a better barrier over an installation of the foam board with no air space between the inner and outer skins. What the heck do I know, and the reason I am posting here. ;-)

I should have all the inner walls of my 18' Traveler down except for the end caps.


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1958 Traveler 18'
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Old 08-20-2012, 06:41 AM   #2
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1972 31' Sovereign
Lexington , Minnesota
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We used fiberglass in the walls when we re-did our trailer. It's easy to install, and works very well. Our a/c was able to keep the inside of the trailer comfortable in the 90+ degree temps we've had this summer with the trailer sitting in full sun. We did not insulate the floor as we installed cork flooring which has an inherent insulation value all on it's own.

The biggest issue I could see with foam boards of any type is getting it to bend around all the curves and not leaving air gaps. We opted to not go the prodex or similar route due to cost and how all the seams need to be sealed in order to have it be most effective. We just didn't see the benefit of the extra cost and installation time. Although many have used it and swear by it.


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Old 08-20-2012, 08:44 AM   #3
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1969 21' Globetrotter
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I have rebuilt many campers with round radiuses like the airstream. I use the ridgid foam board.To get it to conform to the radius, just score one side and it will bend with no problem. Unlike fiberglass, foam board will not absorb water.
Just my two cents worth.
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Old 08-22-2012, 12:08 AM   #4
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Long Beach , California
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Cutting kerfs in the rigid foam will allow the panels to conform. I use a sharpened spackling knife to cut or score rigid foam. Works like a champ!

I was at the big box store today, and the R-Tech rigid foam now comes with a reflective metal reflective facer. This is the first time I've seen it. It helps with moisture control. Anyway... back to my dilema...

I noticed the fiberglass batting at 6.5" thickness has an R value of R-13. The rigid foam uses the term "effective R-value". To get close to an R-13, rigid foam needs a thickness approx. 2.5". Trying to figure out if there are any technical advantages of using rigid foam. The fiberglass seems easier to install, other than protecting exposed skin.

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1958 Traveler 18'
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Old 08-22-2012, 07:09 AM   #5
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I used two layers of the 1/2" foam. It has an R-Value of around 6+ with two layers in there. Small air gaps are not a problem. An equal thickness of fiberglass won't insulate as well. You are not going to get R-13 our of 1.5" of fiberglass. The stuff I used was 1/2" RMAX. Like the others have said it is easy to scorr to get it to bend. I used the silver duct sealing tape for the seams. You could probably put a layer of radiation barrier in there as well. RMAX has a reflective layer on one side so it has some reflective properties. Your fiberglass is going to give you and R value of (13/6.5) x 1.5 = R3. Foam is going to be twice that R value for just 1" thick.

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