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Old 07-30-2010, 01:31 PM   #1
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1967 22' Safari
Baldwin City , Kansas
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how to repair the bathroom fiberglass?

I have been searching the forums and internet for help on this, but am coming up with nothing.

The only repair I cannot figure out how to do is in the bathroom. We have the International package for our Safari... the bathroom is lovely "Tiffany Box" blue and green. The fiberglass has some substantial cracking in some places. I am not sure how to tackle this. I want to keep the interior, yet the cracks are quite unattractive.

Has anyone tackled repairing the bathroom in their AS?
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Old 07-30-2010, 01:46 PM   #2
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Some pics of what you are trying to fix would help but I had done a lot of repair on bathroom parts in my 68. Be aware, that after repair the fiberglass parts will need to be painted. For fiberglass parts and for the plastic parts I used West System Epoxy resin ( available from aircraftspruce.com) and fiberglass cloth. The resin is used extensively in the boating world as well as for composite homebuilt aircraft. It remains somewhat flexible as opposed to the polyester resin in the fiberglass kits you can buy at Home Depot. I used this for broken pieces and severe cracks. For shallow surface cracks, you can just use bondo ( depends on the part and location). With any repair you will have to paint the piece you fixed. I used a 2 part epoxy paint designed for bathtubs and sprayed it. Some folks who have the equipment use automotive type paint which is very durable but expensive. Also requires expertise to properly spray.
Post some pics of the specific parts and you will get a lot more comments on the best way to handle them.

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Old 07-30-2010, 10:24 PM   #3
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Here... this rather scary looking bathroom is the biggest project. I am interested in trying to fix the cracking... It seems rather daunting!

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Old 07-31-2010, 04:24 PM   #4
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I had a fiberglass tub crack (in a rental house) repaired by a guy who came out and fixed for me. Can't even see where he fixed it. He took a 6" wide area down a couple layers with an angle grinder, used epoxy, mesh, fiberglass, and something like Bondo at the end. He sanded it flush and painted it to match. He mixed the paint for his aerosol paint sprayer right on the job. I was impressed.

I bet there's a U-Tube video on how to do it. It only takes 10 years of doing it every day to get good at it.
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Old 07-31-2010, 04:55 PM   #5
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The tub and surround toilet area in my 68 looks just like that. The part that is cracked is not fiberglass but plastic. I had several cracks in the bottom edge of mine and actually had about a 14 inch piece of the bottom that was gone. First you need to remove the part. There are screws that hold it to the floor that can be reached from the back. And there are lots of rivets to drill out. After you get it out and clean you can begin. First thing is to rough up the back along either side of the crack to give the epoxy resin something to bit. Go to the West System web site or youtube and you can see how all about fiberglassing using the epoxy resin. They have lots of videos and you can download instructions PDF files. After fixing the crack you will have to paint the piece. I tried several things the new Krylon Fusion for plastic works great. I would not use the Krylon for the tub. It won't old up. For that you need an automotive urethane or a two part epoxy for durability.
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Old 07-31-2010, 05:02 PM   #6
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Paint won't bridge gap of crack unless you thicken with something like thickening agent for fiberglass work, as long as you are using epoxy paint on surface and back has been reinforced to stop any flexing that caused the crack in the first place.
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Old 07-31-2010, 07:35 PM   #7
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I will definitely look around for ideas... We are thinking of running a little chrome strip down the crack along the edge there. Not sure what to do with the crack that runs down to the floor yet.

Splitrock -- yeah... I bet someone could come out and fix it. Any guess-timates on how much something like that might run?
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:10 PM   #8
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Splitrock -- yeah... I bet someone could come out and fix it. Any guess-timates on how much something like that might run?
I think I paid him $250. He told me he usually gets $400 . . . but bought him an eight pound taco.
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:37 PM   #9
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hmmm... i am fresh out of 8 lb. tacos. i went to a place lately that made an 8 lb burrito, and it comes with 1 lb. of rice and 1 lb. of beans. It's called the 10 lb. challenge. The "aftermath" hardly seems to be worth it.

(i am vegetarian, for the record.)

but that seems reasonable. maybe i will try getting some estimates.
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:18 PM   #10
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I have heard of people using POR 15 products including a two part apoxy for repainting bathroom sinks and tubs. Anyone else heard about this or used the products. They are fantastic for finishing metal. I have painted the entire frame of my 68 Safari with great results but I am afraid to try something new when a failure could be costly. Looking for comments,
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:56 AM   #11
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I used a two part epoxy bath and tile paint I purchased at Sherwin Williams ( XIM product all Tile Doc). Instructions said you could brush it and I tried on the back on the sink. Poor results. I don't have a good small size spray gun so I then went to NAPA and bought a Prevail spray kit. You fill up the glass bottle and then screw on a power head for your own "rattle can" type spray. For any of the sprayer make sure you have mixed the two parts in a third vessel and thinned it and then pour it through a strainer into the bottle. You can get the disposable strainers at anyplace that sells auto body paint. First attempt wasn't real good on a test board. I thinned the mixture and it worked great. Work in very light coats or you can get a run. If you do get a run, let it dry a couple of days, then with 400 carbide paper you can wet sand the runs and repaint. Again, light coats about an hour apart are the best way.
CAUTION: The fumes from the epoxy paint are bad. You really need to buy a mask rated for volatile organics ( HD has a 3M model for around $30). Overspray can be a problem as well, if it is close by and you don't want paint on it cover it up.
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:19 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by 68 TWind View Post
I used a two part epoxy bath and tile paint I purchased at Sherwin Williams ( XIM product all Tile Doc). Instructions said you could brush it and I tried on the back on the sink. Poor results. I don't have a good small size spray gun so I then went to NAPA and bought a Prevail spray kit. You fill up the glass bottle and then screw on a power head for your own "rattle can" type spray. For any of the sprayer make sure you have mixed the two parts in a third vessel and thinned it and then pour it through a strainer into the bottle. You can get the disposable strainers at anyplace that sells auto body paint. First attempt wasn't real good on a test board. I thinned the mixture and it worked great. Work in very light coats or you can get a run. If you do get a run, let it dry a couple of days, then with 400 carbide paper you can wet sand the runs and repaint. Again, light coats about an hour apart are the best way.
CAUTION: The fumes from the epoxy paint are bad. You really need to buy a mask rated for volatile organics ( HD has a 3M model for around $30). Overspray can be a problem as well, if it is close by and you don't want paint on it cover it up.
Twind what did you thin it out with and what was your mix ratio I might get same spray system you have and it would save time if I knew what you had for mixture .
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:07 AM   #13
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Two part epoxy and spray guns sounds like "professional grade" skills needed. Has anyone hired a professional re-bath co. to do the job and how were the results. I don't want to have to take my bath apart to avoid overspray etc. I have learned that once I take something apart I find more that needs to be done and the job grows to something unmanagable. Thanx for the input though. I have a sherwin-williams right down the street. JIM
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Old 10-05-2010, 12:05 AM   #14
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DIY Classic rides on youtube...key word use "Airstream DIY". Shows complete remodel of 1970 Airstream. Good stuff... Plus a friend of mind repairs fiberglass shower units, he got a free shower unit that had a forklift hole in it, from JW Woods. Repaired it and we put it in a house I built in the 90's at Lake Shasta. You couldn't see where he did the repair. Trex
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