That tool ($60 dollars) from the Aircraft Spruce supply.
Is that the one you have used Lumatic.?
If so what exactly was the problem with it? If another tool could you please be more specific?
It is my advice NEVER to try to drill a rivet that has a closed head (like an Olympic)(or the bucked round heads on our Airstreams) without FIRST dimpling the head. But "head-dimpling" is not always as easy as it may seem.
I try to use a spring loaded Punch that I got at a Harbor Freight store for about $3 dollars. But I also sometimes use a good scratch awl ($4-7 dollars at any good hardware) and have used an ice pick as well. But the awl and the pick are prone to slipping off the rivet head and this can do damage to surrounding aluminum. Plus ice picks are not made to do this and often the pick slips back up into the handle and become dangerous and/or useless for this exercise.
You might also grind an old screwdriver into a point.
A couple of other tips are to chuck the drill bit as far into your drill as possible, giving you the shortest amount of bit exposed possible. I have even considerd shortening the bit (from the non drilling end) but have not yet done so. Remember you are not going to have to drill but a small fraction of an inch.
Also remember that you should keep a little oil handy to wet your bit often if you have many to drill out, and that there is better cutting of metal by a drill bit at lower speeds (rpm) in most all cases. i.e. you don't have to and probably shouldn't run your drill at or even near max speed.
And of course wear eye protection, those aluminum slivers are hard to find and expensive to remove from the eyeball, and they hurt like hell too.
I wonder if the tool linked to above by Doctor Dallas actually a "dimpling jig"?
Oh and here is a great rivet thread & tutorial. DON"T Miss viewing this.
. airforums.com /forums/f381/olympic-rivet-removal-installation-23.html)