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Old 09-07-2015, 10:56 AM   #1
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How are Twin Bed Hanging Wardrobes Attached?

We are researching a 25fb queen to twin bed conversion. Next to our queen bed is a shirt closet over two stacked 10" wide drawers and a lower cabinet. The frame of this assembly is supported by the floor. If the drawer frame was cut away from the upper hanging wardrobe how could the the wardrobe be supported from the side? Looking at the attached drawings the queen wardrobe is open on the end against the adjacent wall

I think the factory hanging wardrobes have their own side for support.

For the conversion we'd have the drawers and framing removed from the top wardrobe. Then the top wardrobe would have to be mounted to support the weight loaded during towing.

I guess the easiest solution is leave the wardrobe alone and just have a shorter twin bed. My wife is only 5' 6" but I'm thinking of resale value to have two 78" long twins.


Kelvin
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:35 AM   #2
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I just popped down to the storage unit and looked at the closet. The adjacent wall seems to be veneered plywood. The hanging bar is screwed down to this wall. I suppose a hardwood ledge running the width under the wardrobe could be attached and then use some L brackets around the perimeter inside screwed into this wall.

The wife accompanied me and she laid against the curb wall and her head butts up against the front window too much. Its only 68" long from the front to the wardrobe. With the drawer section removed the length is 80". So we will have the drawer section removed.

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Old 09-07-2015, 03:48 PM   #3
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We removed the hanging wardrobe over the curbside twin in our 2011 25' FB Twin to make the bedroom more open. The wardrobe does not have its own side where it contacts the adjacent wall. It does have a 1x3" frame that lets it keep it shape. There are a series of screws along the bottom and front frame that go through the frame and enter the adjacent wall. There are a few screws that go into the aluminum through the bottom rear frame. Lastly, and maybe most importantly, there is a steel bracket firmly attached to the ceiling, into which the top frame of the wardrobe attaches with screws. Sorry I don't have any pictures. Hope this helps. Joe
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:17 AM   #4
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Thanks for this information. Sounds like the steel bracket is essential. Is the bracket located above the door or more in the center of the wardrobe?

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Old 09-08-2015, 01:12 PM   #5
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Kelvin,
I found one photo the shows the placement of the bracket (I did not remove it when I removed the hanging wardrobe). Hope this helps. Joe

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Old 09-08-2015, 01:25 PM   #6
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Thanks very much. I downloaded the photo and zooming in I can make out the bracket. There must be a rib there for the bracket to screw into. My Classic has the vinyl roof covering. Hopefully my AS has similar structure to screw in a support bracket.

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Old 09-09-2015, 05:10 PM   #7
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I went out to my AS in storage after work and looked in my bedroom closet. There is a L bracket screwed to the ceiling. It may have to be beefed up during the conversion. I'm not sure if the bracket is screwed into a rib. I'll continue investigating.

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Old 09-09-2015, 06:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KJRitchie View Post
I guess the easiest solution is leave the wardrobe alone and just have a shorter twin bed. My wife is only 5' 6" but I'm thinking of resale value to have two 78" long twins.
Kelvin
We began looking at this as a future conversion when buying the Airstream new. She also sized it up and decided she never sleeps completely stretched straight out, so why don't we keep the very, very useful drawers and shirt closet. A slightly wider bed than the other would be helpful and the mattress would be custom cut anyway because of the wall curve at the top.

As for resale value, our Airstreams have both aged past the new and stock equipment period. We don't modify our Airstream for a future buyer either. But if so, most would value the closet and drawers more than a longer bed, if she can fit into it.
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Old 09-10-2015, 10:05 AM   #9
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I've noticed my wife rarely sleeps in a semi fetal position but if there were a physical restraint that would force her. She can lay straight out but her head is right up onto the front window. I thought she might have had a couple inches of headroom before her feet hit the wardrobe. We'll try it again and reevaluate.

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Old 09-11-2015, 05:48 AM   #10
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I converted our queen to twins. I'll post pictures tomorrow. I will look to see if I have any pictures of the closet insides from my conversion. But what I remember is there is a metal bracket just inside and above the door. It's In the previous picture.

There is also a wooden support under the upper shelf that attaches to the metal skin.

The inside laminate white framing that is open screws into the bathroom wall, and the whole assy was screwed to the floor as well.

There are at least three or four other threads on the Forum that have converted from a queen to twins.

Good Luck
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Old 09-11-2015, 03:23 PM   #11
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Did you do the work yourself or contract someone to do it?

We are waiting for a quote from a local RV repair/renovations company here is Nixa. They usually perform renovations during the winter months as they are booked solid for RV repairs currently.

Thanks

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Old 09-12-2015, 08:58 PM   #12
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Kelvin,

I did the work myself. I had reused most of the support framework. I had cut new mattress platforms (base), and had new mattresses made by a local bedding company. My curb side access storage was slightly reduced, but the new bed on the street side gained more useable space. The amount of useable floor space is amazing - it really opens up the trailer.

Good Luck

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Old 09-13-2015, 08:13 AM   #13
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Thanks Drew. Have you had any issues with the cionversion after some use. Is there anything you would've done differently?

I've searched for the twin bed conversion threads and have them bookmarked. I even sent them to the owner of the RV shop we are anticipating using to do the work. They've worked on a few Airstreams.

I would love to see some photos of your interior to compare.

This is our conversion plan.
I plan to use the large drawer at the end of the queen bed for two drawers under the street twin. The draw boxes will be lengthened as the queen drawer is only 12" deep. I'm having the heater vent moved from the shower wall extend to be next to the curb twin next to the nightstand. I'm thinking about moving the batteries to under the street curb twin next to the shower wall. I'm going to have the lower shower wall opened up a bit for better access to the shower drain P trap for servicing. I'll have the converter panel placed behind the water heater. I'll probably have a drawer built for under the curb twin. The nightstand will use the two 10" drawers from the queen bedroom wardrobe with a new wider drawer below. The nite stand top will be Corian to match the kitchen but we my go with a different color for the bedroom. One or two electrical outlets to be set in the Corian top. The wardrobe shirt closet will be retained.
We will have a leak test performed and all roof vents resealed and as long as they are doing that have Maxim skylights to replace the OEM skylights. Any other leaks detected sealed. LVT floor will be installed throughout the trailer.

I've got some broken bolts on my stabilizer jacks so I'm going to have them replace all the stabilizer bolts.
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Old 09-14-2015, 10:12 PM   #14
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Kelvin,

Here are some pictures.
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