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Old 07-21-2015, 06:24 PM   #1
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2002 25' Classic
Chelsea , Vermont
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Question Headliner droop and repair

Hi -- we purchased a 2002 Classic 25' last summer, and the headliner is starting to separate from the ceiling in several places - actually this was already happening when we purchased the trailer. We'd like to fix what is already drooping and be proactive by securing the whole ceiling - it is starting to separate in other places although not really noticeable.

I've been reading about how to tackle this problem on the forum and like the recommendation found on a previous post that opts for screwing the headliner in place using self-tapping screws. A previous post with pictures showed doing this in a pattern that ultimately looked planned and gave a quilted look.

Question: I'm trying to find information as to how the ceiling is constructed. Is there a double-wall - how much room is there between interior and exterior walls and what is in between. We purchased some self-drilling screws - 5/8" and some screw covers. I'm wondering what we have to be concerned about hitting, if anything, with the screws.

Thanks very much for any help!!

Lynn
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:34 PM   #2
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Inner skin throughout padded area. 1.5" between skins, filled with fiberglass insulation. But wiring is helter skelter and somewhat in unpredictable locations. Depending how thick your caps are and if they are trapped between the screw head and vinyl, I wouldn't use more than 3/8" screws. The shorter the better.
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Old 07-21-2015, 06:58 PM   #3
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Thanks - appreciate the info. We thought we were being conservative with the 5/8" screw -- so good to know your thoughts. Kind of figured the wiring was unpredictable - good to have the confirmation.

Have a great night!!
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Old 07-21-2015, 07:16 PM   #4
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I don't have this problem (yet!) on our 2005, maybe it is just a matter of time, although I thought I had read it was mainly with earlier trailers (nineties?) when a water-based glue had been used.

Does it happen to all years?

In any event, I will follow this thread to learn in case one day I need to do it!


Do you not need to measure from the rivet lines outside on the roof and transfer the dimensions to the inside to ensure that self tappers you put in correspond to roof trusses or frames?

Maybe this is not important?

Brian.
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Old 07-21-2015, 08:16 PM   #5
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So far, knock on wood, mine hasn't shown any sign of drooping yet. There is a bubble by the door where they just didn't get any glue. Always been there and hasn't grown.
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Old 07-22-2015, 01:45 PM   #6
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2000 30' Excella
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My 2000 Excella had the same problem.
You know that plastic strip the holds the two headers on either side of to the ceiling, well in my case one of the headers pull away from the strip because it had been cut too short. I was lucky because in gutting much of the interior I had an extra piece of that strip.

On the back side of the strip is a strip of plastic that goes into a metal slot that holds it and the headers to the ceiling. Using a dremel I cut that piece off and was able to tuck it under the existing strip which added about a half inch to the width of the existing strip and now it holds the sagging header up.

BTW I painted both strips white (previously painted the entire ceiling headers white) and you wouldn't notice it unless I pointed it out, which I won't do.
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Old 07-22-2015, 03:47 PM   #7
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The liners on AS from 94 or 95 up to somewhere around 2000 seem to have this problem. Based on previous threads on this problem, the issue was the factory changing to water-based adhesive that does not hold up well in heat. (legislated change not the fault of AS)
The best solution so far seems to have been developed by a couple in one of the AS parks in the Carolina's I think...Some one jump in here because I couldn't locate the original thread of a few months ago.... They screw the foam backed liner to the interior aluminum sheet and cover the heads with buttons that mount on the screw head to achieve a pin cushion upholstery effect.

I tried using 3M adhesive...it worked for about a month and then fell off again...the button look is the only way to solve this problem based on some very extensive coverage on this forum. You do not have to hit the ribs. Just lay out a neat pattern that looks good. I found that the vinyl needed to be stretched to lay under the "T" strips along the joints. Don't hammer too hard when refitting the "T" strips ...they are brittle and will crack.
JCW
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Old 07-22-2015, 05:03 PM   #8
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2010 27' FB Classic
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headliner droop

I had this problem in a 1995 Excella. After several failers trying to glue it back I bought several 1 or 1.5 inch wide wood trim strips at Home Depot. I painted them white and screwed them into the inner liner then painted the screw heads white. It gave a nice finished look and was still holding 2 years later when I sold it. They looked very much like the trim used between the original plastic used to cover the seems.
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Old 07-22-2015, 07:27 PM   #9
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Thanks for all the help - we are a little more confident now that we can solve this problem!!
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Old 07-23-2015, 09:30 AM   #10
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We bought a new '97 Safari 25' and had one section of headliner replaced under warranty. Eventually, it all started sagging. After a couple years we bought a box of screws and the little white vinyl snap-on covers and did the 'quilted' fix. Until this thread, I didn't know anyone else had ever done it. (Only just recently started looking at forum.)

If you plan to do it I recommend getting a package of the little adhesive paper circles used for garage sales. They are about the size of a penny. Stick these all over the ceiling where you plan to put the screws. We put the screws about 8 or 10 inches apart as I remember. See what distance will work out evenly and come to the sides ok. Then lay down on the floor and look at the ceiling, especially the corners with the compound curves, to see if they look right. You may not care but I am a little OCD about details. The screws will be a little closer in the curves like the longitude lines on a globe.

Someone who saw it said it makes the ceiling look like the lid of a coffin. Talk about cozy! We loved it. The fix worked well and was doing fine when we traded the trailer for our classic in '08.

RH
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Old 07-24-2015, 08:55 AM   #11
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Thank you RH. I'm now facing this challenge and wondered how easy or hard it was going to be.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:01 PM   #12
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Not too hard. Take your time. Fwiw I didn't use self tapping screws but drilled small pilot holes. Shouldn't make much difference.
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Old 07-24-2015, 12:32 PM   #13
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I have often wondered if my laser leveler, which projects a line would be an accurate way of creating the location lines for these buttons. If it were exactly vertical, perpendicular to the floor, I think it would be a great guide. They don't cost much.
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Old 07-26-2015, 07:54 PM   #14
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This has been a great response - glad to know about all the options. And I think others have also benefited from this inquiry
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