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Old 04-23-2010, 02:53 PM   #71
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Lookin' Good!

Hi Steve,

Nice work!!!

Have you tried carefully wet sanding before the polish?

The guys at the VAP told me that wet sanding with aluminum oxide sandpaper was OK. I tried it on my street side and the polishing went SO MUCH faster than the curb side that I did without sanding. We had severe filiform corrosion that the Nuvite would not touch. We started with 600 and finished with 1000 grit before polishing.

Our trailer is an ’84 and had the “brushed” look to the aluminum. Yours is different and you might have the Alclad (sp) coated aluminum. (You'd have to research that.)

I’m no expert, but I thought that I might throw out the wetsanding suggestion. It worked for us.

Cheers,
Chris
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Old 04-23-2010, 03:48 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by 84Sovereign View Post
Hi Steve,

Nice work!!!

Have you tried carefully wet sanding before the polish?

The guys at the VAP told me that wet sanding with aluminum oxide sandpaper was OK. I tried it on my street side and the polishing went SO MUCH faster than the curb side that I did without sanding. We had severe filiform corrosion that the Nuvite would not touch. We started with 600 and finished with 1000 grit before polishing.

Our trailer is an ’84 and had the “brushed” look to the aluminum. Yours is different and you might have the Alclad (sp) coated aluminum. (You'd have to research that.)

I’m no expert, but I thought that I might throw out the wetsanding suggestion. It worked for us.

Cheers,
Chris
I did do a little wet sanding on corrosion under emblems and belt line but decided the alclad was not something I wanted to take a chance on with the panels.
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Old 04-24-2010, 02:02 AM   #73
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Talking

thank you...i got brave today and pulled up the couch,i saw the copper pipe,however i didnt see fresh water tank,,,i think its just not there
but thnks for a quick respond AND PIC! for this newbie
"arms r buff,and stream is shiny"
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Old 04-24-2010, 09:32 AM   #74
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Lookin' great, Steve! Keep up the good work. I'm about halfway through the polishing phase. Definitely a pain, but well worth it.
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Old 05-26-2010, 09:59 PM   #75
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Lookin' great, Steve! Keep up the good work. I'm about halfway through the polishing phase. Definitely a pain, but well worth it.
Since you're half way through I guess I am on the right time frame.Just seems like it's taking forever,but really worth it.Hope to see you in ABQ at the resto rally.
Decided to just polish for awhile,get Fantastic fans in and anything else on the outside so I can seal it up.Did use Sealmate on the interior seams.
I did get the rear done and the license plate detail.It took 3 mo.to find that plate.Traded in current plate and it cost $15 additional a year to use it.
I thought I would wait on the final decision on tanks until after ABQ.It's not like I don't have other stuff to finish!
Uwe will be there,and he suggested a couple of 25 gallon tanks.They hang down a bit so some belly mods are in order.Did you come up with a suitable modification for the 64?
Just thinking about having my 17 yr. old son and about 5 of his friends come work on detail like the window frames.How much should I pay them?I have to cut the deal BEFORE they figure out how hard a job they accepted.Moving on!
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:26 PM   #76
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progress

I am waiting on my tanks.I have sealed the interior seams and continued with the polishing to keep busy since I am only out the price of the bars.I am also glassing the tail lights since they were pretty torn up.The little stuff is time consuming,but I either do it now or later.Here are a few shots.I am finished with the tripoli cut on all the lower sections and some of the end caps.The plan is to finish the exterior with emblems,paint where needed,new marker lights etc.then work on the windows and sealing overall.
HF was blowing out this nifty little scaffold for $23!!!!
A couple of tears by the door and a nice gash in the back(you should have seen it before I started working on it)PO patched the refer vent.I found the reducer and I am restoring the vent.
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:59 AM   #77
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Back at the resto

Hot summer!! Just now getting back to 8hr.days on the AS.I am posting the taillight redo.It took a couple of weeks of resin,sand resin,but they look new.Got the tanks in and covered with insulation.Did the plumbing with Valterra valve.Ran the umbilical cord through conduit to send varmints to the dentist.POR'ed the mounting brackets and installed a new strip of 14 ga. to rivet BP and wrap to.I now have the rear trim off and will install a piece of aluminum up under the skin making a 90 sitting on the frame to help keep water coming in from the bumper lid.Floor goes in this weekend.Used West System epoxy to seal the edges.Everything in now a huge amount of fun that things are moving faster.With the floor in insulation next so I can work inside the coach when it starts getting cold.
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Old 10-19-2010, 11:07 AM   #78
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There's some really good looking work there, Steve. Good to see you getting into the fun stuff now.

cheers,
steve
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Old 10-19-2010, 12:03 PM   #79
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It is looking great Steve. Keep it up and you'll be camping in no time.

Rich the Viking
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:43 PM   #80
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Really looking good. The tail lights, the polish, it is really coming together. I agree, it is nice to be cooling down. I know I felt a lot better when the floor went in. Keep up the great work!

Russ
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:59 PM   #81
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The tail light Guru

Quote:
Originally Posted by JSTOTT View Post
Really looking good. The tail lights, the polish, it is really coming together. I agree, it is nice to be cooling down. I know I felt a lot better when the floor went in. Keep up the great work!

Russ
Thanks Russ! Thanks for the primer on restoring the tail housings.I think they might look as good as yours!With this under my belt working on the bath area will be a breeze. Steve
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Old 10-29-2010, 08:52 PM   #82
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Movingalong!

Making really good progress.I did the floor alone with my trusty red jack,so it is a one man job if need be.The tail light pic is for JStott(thanks Russ) I plumbed the tanks,did some insulation,and almost finished with the floor(Please God don't ever make me do that again)I did notice the shell was not moving around the door and descovered 4 skin rivets on either side of the step I had not removed.
I am securing all the floor with the appropriate bolts and screws. The Prodex comes Monday.I also fashioned a water dam in the rear by running some .032 between the rear skin.Hopefully this angle will channel the standing bumper water off the sides.The serrated edges will be covered by the new bumper lid and piano hinge to open.Found some great stranded wire with a deal for cash.
I can only say going to Airforums U. has been invaluable.So many who have been there and done that have helped prevent costly mistakes,and given many great original ideas for making my Airstream better than new.Thanks to all !
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Old 10-30-2010, 03:11 PM   #83
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Steve, you're making great progress. Doesn't it feel wonderful when the floor goes down!
I didn't see a picture of the reinforcements you made to the rear, other than the bracket you welded on from the frame to the short outrigger. Did you add bolts through the frame rails, floor and c-channel where they intersect at either side of the rear access door? Mine was not originally bolted through there so I drilled through it all and put a 5/16" stainless bolt with fender washers and lock washers through both frame rails to add beef to the connection. If you don't have bolts there I recommend considering it before the insulation starts going in back there. With all of the rear end issues we hear about it just seems like a simple way to help prevent it from starting.
Where did you end up getting your tanks from?

Lookin' good!

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Old 10-30-2010, 08:38 PM   #84
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Got my tanks from Ronco and they were great people to work with.Uwe suggested them and together we found a model off the shelf,both 27 gallons.They have a substantial lip all around so I was able to drop them in home made angle bracket that can be unbolted in I ever need to get the tank out.It did feel great getting the floor in.Bolts all go in next week.I did have the strap going between the frame in the rear.In addition to the 2 angles I welded in for the back side corners,I also think that aluminum L under the rear skin will help.Andy posted a pic of a curved piece of steel that follows the back curve dropped in the c channel and bolted through to hold the floor and skin tight.
Must do all I can at this stripped stage to improve the design to fight the possible sag and water problems.I love my little red jack!
It will be fun to start working on rewire and plumbing.The heavy lifting is over.
I considered putting my fresh water tank under the floor after I saw Uwe's installation at the restoration rally in ABQ in June but am going in stock position.Will get that tank from Ronco also.Where is your blog with all your work?I have not been able to locate it.Thanks Viking!
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