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Old 01-30-2010, 09:37 PM   #29
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65CV,
I think the AMBASSADOR insignia IS potmetal with a plastic chrome.
Looking into plating.Yes, all five attaching pins leak and I am sure is the source or the floor rot underneath it.

Wabbiteer,My wheel wells are fiberglass (plastic?) in pretty good shape with only a few repairable cracks.
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:01 PM   #30
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65CV: I also restored my emblem, nameplates, and pull handle rather than buy replicas. Ironically, it's one of the first things I did to my Caravel thinking that putting them back on would be an appropriate finishing touch. That's not going to happen though because I want to buck rivet them back in place before I put the interior skins back on.
I was very nervous handing over my irreplaceable pot metal emblem to a guy that said "plating this stuff is tricky, it's very soft and could disintegrate". Luckily it turn out great with one plate of copper, one plate of nickel, and just the right touch of gold.

Sheridan
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Old 01-30-2010, 10:37 PM   #31
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Gold plating

bwaysteve-

See what Sheridan did to the insignia? Do it to the trailer. It'll be even better than Wally's personal trailer.

Sheridan - that's sweet.

John
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Old 01-31-2010, 09:11 AM   #32
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outstanding

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Originally Posted by Sheridan View Post
65CV: I also restored my emblem, nameplates, and pull handle rather than buy replicas. Ironically, it's one of the first things I did to my Caravel thinking that putting them back on would be an appropriate finishing touch. That's not going to happen though because I want to buck rivet them back in place before I put the interior skins back on.
I was very nervous handing over my irreplaceable pot metal emblem to a guy that said "plating this stuff is tricky, it's very soft and could disintegrate". Luckily it turn out great with one plate of copper, one plate of nickel, and just the right touch of gold.

Sheridan
Sheridan,
Those look incredible!
So basically you plated all those pieces then repainted?Steve
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Old 01-31-2010, 10:32 AM   #33
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Thanks guys, I kinda enjoy detail work.

65CV: I follow your thread thread with great enthusiasm, excellent detail. I would love to duplicate many of your ideas and techniques as I go along. I'm currently at the insulation/wiring stage.

bwaysteve: I talked a retired metal plating artist into re-plating my pull handle and script emblem. The gold color is achieved by knowing just how long to leave the pot metal in a nickel solution and then mixing in a little brass. I think he did a great job
but that's not to say that other experienced plating companies couldn't do the same.

Sheridan
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Old 01-31-2010, 11:04 AM   #34
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Steve, please pardon me for stepping on your thread, but I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding the nameplate. I don't know if there are any examples of a dark blue int'l land yacht with a light blue background. I don't know if this was original to the '64s but the dark blue lettering has got to be from the factory (the P.O. could never have done that good a job). I like the light blue background and would want to find the proper color. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:21 PM   #35
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Moving along

This gutting is a slow process!! Rivets and more rivets.This is where I am so far.I have found more floor rot around the perimeter and about 3 window leaks and one vent leak.I want to remove the HW heater and the furnace but the screws on the heat vents are corroded.I really hate to drill through skin rivets if I can avoid it but my luck with an easy out has not been good.Any suggestions.
The insulation looked really good(no bugs or mice trails).The flange on the B tank is as pictured.Is this a simple replacement?
What can I use this anttena pole for (dish?)
I also noticed in many areas of the outside skin many of the rivets have a slight dimple that might be Olympic rivets.They are different.It does not appear that panels have been replaced.Why the diff?
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:26 PM   #36
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Marque

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Steve, please pardon me for stepping on your thread, but I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding the nameplate. I don't know if there are any examples of a dark blue int'l land yacht with a light blue background. I don't know if this was original to the '64s but the dark blue lettering has got to be from the factory (the P.O. could never have done that good a job). I like the light blue background and would want to find the proper color. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Dar,I think it must be as unique as the brass surrounds on mine.From what I gather on the threads people were able to customize some things at the factory although I haven't seen one like this either.Either way from the past threads one should get a case of beer and a few movies to restore.The bicycle looks like the tedious part.
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Old 02-08-2010, 04:37 PM   #37
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Some light percussion parallel with the body or trim panel walking around 'the clock' on outside fasteners edge can break free the corrosion weld effect - OR - grind a clean square edged slot using dremel or roto-zip tool - OR - latch on with the pliers in the picture and wiggle it gently until you've got some movement then repeat the above...

I seem to recall having the heads fall off many of the screws and ended up worrying them out; the threads had rusted enough a little movement broke up the friction points and hauling heater etc out with screw shanks still attached?


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Old 02-08-2010, 05:02 PM   #38
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Smile

Thanks Steve. Your w/h door looks a lot better than mine did. I tend to agree with Wabbiteer (until you twist the heads off). You might try clamping the screws from the inside and working bass ackwards. In either case, I've found that no two screws are comparative regarding the PITA factor.

The antenna might be better put to use as a flagpole support.http://www.airforums.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif I've got the same one. You're doing a great job (how do you keep everything so tidy???)

As my Dad always told me, ''Keep your head down, son, and muddle your way through it.''
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:01 PM   #39
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Dar ,
I have to clean as I go just to keep my spirits up and not lose any tools.
Probably the best thing I bought was a blind rivet remover tool at Aircraft Tool Supply.
Great bits and a little serrated edge that stops the head from spinning.I guess I will polish up the antenna and use it for a "Don't Mess With Texas" Flag!
Are there any bolts on the HW and furnace other than outside panels?I removed rivets from the duct work and disconnected water lines so far.
I sent Prescision Temp an email to see how I could use those heat vents.I think the piano hinge is the best idea.
I was really amazed at how good the insulation looked and other than a few rusty bolts the channel is excellent.
How is your progress?
I really liked the insulation method you chose for the interior skins on the Ambie 64 redo thread.
You should need no air or heat with R20(well you live in Phoenix don't you!Maybe air at least) Post more soon!
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:03 PM   #40
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Where do I get PL Gutter Seal?
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:20 PM   #41
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bwaysteve -

Hang in there -- it's much more fun when you get to the rebuild stage.

Gutter Seal? Check this page:
Caulks & Sealants
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Old 02-08-2010, 06:44 PM   #42
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Hi Steve,
You had asked about the removal of the ceiling panels earlier. The ones in my '64 were buck-riveted together along the seam, where yours has the 2" vinyl strip. I am not certain if yours will be the same though. It should be apparent by looking at them closely. You might need to drop one of the ceiling vent trims down so you can see how these panels come together. If there is just a simple overlapped seam and a single row of bucked rivets down the center of the ceiling you have the same thing I did. I dropped my ceiling in one piece but could not maneuver it out of the Safari by myself, so I drilled out the bucked rivets and removed each piece seperately. If you can possibly get help with this you can get it out in one piece, which would be preferable. If there are no bucked rivets in your ceiling it must be two seperate pieces anyway, in which case you just drill away and hope it doesn't hit you on the head when it finally comes down. You will need to support the ceiling in some fashion to keep it from getting bent and creased as it comes down. I worked from the street side towards the center, and then from the curb side towards the center, leaving the middle for last. Then I made a support out of a couple of vertical 2x4s and a piece of 1" pipe across the top of them, placed tightly against the ceiling. After drilling out the last rivets I went to one end of the support and removed the vertical 2x4 and lowered the end of the pipe, along with the ceiling panels, to the floor, then went to the other end and did the same. Viola: ceiling is now on the floor. Wipe the sweat off your forehead.
Have a beer. Have another beer. You did good! Keep it up.
Rich the Viking
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