Gutting the '65

[goransons]

It gets fun for me when the demo is done and reconstruction is far enough along that it looks better than it did the day it came home... which sometimes takes awhile. It goes way uphill for me after the rotten wood, and the associated smells and "discoveries" go away too.

[3Ms75Argosy]

I'm still staring at my frame.. wondering how to proceed with the rust repair...
THEN fun should start in my opinion.. Nice work!
Marc

[65CV]

Scotts' right. The fun is in the building. Definitely plan well -- it will help minimize frustration. Nothing worse than changing something that's been installed already.

Take good care of that mahogany. Four quarter genuine honduran is $13.00 per board foot. You can't buy mahogany plywood anymore -- it's all sapele.

That '65 mahogany interior is one of the sweetest that Airstream made, IMHO.

Good thread.

John

[bwaysteve]

Got all the old tile up swept dirt to see what I have.Next is removing the Bowen hw tank and the furnace.Does anyone know what is invlved in these two items? Can they be removed without drilling out exterior rivets?
I also found where my bad floor rotter leak by the front door is.The Ambassador emblem is attached with 5 pins and speed clips(all leaking).I want to restore this emblem,what is the material(looks like plastic with a chrome overlay) not sure.
Will post more pics as panels come off.Steve

[ts8501]

Originally Posted by bwaysteve

Next is removing the Bowen hw tank and the furnace.Does anyone know what is invlved in these two items? Can they be removed without drilling out exterior rivets?

Steve:

My Bowen came out by unscrewing all the exterior screws, removing the shroud, and with the water and gas lines disconnected, it slides right out to the outside. It was really easy.

[bwaysteve]

Got the bath surround out.Door filiform. Pics of windows.Does all this vulkem need come out and be resealed? What is this seam in the side skin?
Nice PO rear floor repair!

[Wabbiteer]

I envy your metal wheel wells... My 73 has flexy vinyl that are sagging, cracked and nearing their molecular disintegration.

Those lap joints you pictured - somewhere deep in there is still soft vulkem, using ingenuity w/ standard vulkem caulk or one of the near-liquid seam sealers to wick sealant in the voids is all that is required.

Going after ANY old caulk with standard tools will leave marks on the aluminum - if you can protect the glass a heat gun will vastly ease removing it, and solvents and brass or plastic tools can get it looking fresh and clean. I used a thin brass wheel brush in a Dremel rotary tool to clean ALL the panel and window frame seam edges, getting the overlap joint bright and then used Alcoa seal to run a quick bead across it... I have not tried the Sikaflex, the Alcoa seal you get once chance to lay the 1/8" wide bead in as it skims over immediately and you need to wait for it to completely dry before patching voids, drop-outs, bubbles etc...

[65CV]

"I want to restore this emblem,what is the material(looks like plastic with a chrome overlay) not sure."

I'm not sure about the Overlander emblem, but our '65 Caravel insignia was pot metal. I brought it to a local guy that does Chrome plating and restoration for cars. He replated it and it looks great. Not cheap, but worth it.

BTW- every hole behind it leaked.

[bwaysteve]

65CV,
I think the AMBASSADOR insignia IS potmetal with a plastic chrome.
Looking into plating.Yes, all five attaching pins leak and I am sure is the source or the floor rot underneath it.

Wabbiteer,My wheel wells are fiberglass (plastic?) in pretty good shape with only a few repairable cracks.

[Sheridan]

65CV: I also restored my emblem, nameplates, and pull handle rather than buy replicas. Ironically, it's one of the first things I did to my Caravel thinking that putting them back on would be an appropriate finishing touch. That's not going to happen though because I want to buck rivet them back in place before I put the interior skins back on.
I was very nervous handing over my irreplaceable pot metal emblem to a guy that said "plating this stuff is tricky, it's very soft and could disintegrate". Luckily it turn out great with one plate of copper, one plate of nickel, and just the right touch of gold.

Sheridan

[65CV]

bwaysteve-

See what Sheridan did to the insignia? Do it to the trailer. It'll be even better than Wally's personal trailer.

Sheridan - that's sweet.

John

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by Sheridan

65CV: I also restored my emblem, nameplates, and pull handle rather than buy replicas. Ironically, it's one of the first things I did to my Caravel thinking that putting them back on would be an appropriate finishing touch. That's not going to happen though because I want to buck rivet them back in place before I put the interior skins back on.
I was very nervous handing over my irreplaceable pot metal emblem to a guy that said "plating this stuff is tricky, it's very soft and could disintegrate". Luckily it turn out great with one plate of copper, one plate of nickel, and just the right touch of gold.

Sheridan

Sheridan,
Those look incredible!
So basically you plated all those pieces then repainted?Steve

[Sheridan]

Thanks guys, I kinda enjoy detail work.

65CV: I follow your thread thread with great enthusiasm, excellent detail. I would love to duplicate many of your ideas and techniques as I go along. I'm currently at the insulation/wiring stage.

bwaysteve: I talked a retired metal plating artist into re-plating my pull handle and script emblem. The gold color is achieved by knowing just how long to leave the pot metal in a nickel solution and then mixing in a little brass. I think he did a great job
but that's not to say that other experienced plating companies couldn't do the same.

Sheridan

[Ambie '64]

Steve, please pardon me for stepping on your thread, but I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding the nameplate. I don't know if there are any examples of a dark blue int'l land yacht with a light blue background. I don't know if this was original to the '64s but the dark blue lettering has got to be from the factory (the P.O. could never have done that good a job). I like the light blue background and would want to find the proper color. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[bwaysteve]

This gutting is a slow process!! Rivets and more rivets.This is where I am so far.I have found more floor rot around the perimeter and about 3 window leaks and one vent leak.I want to remove the HW heater and the furnace but the screws on the heat vents are corroded.I really hate to drill through skin rivets if I can avoid it but my luck with an easy out has not been good.Any suggestions.
The insulation looked really good(no bugs or mice trails).The flange on the B tank is as pictured.Is this a simple replacement?
What can I use this anttena pole for (dish?)
I also noticed in many areas of the outside skin many of the rivets have a slight dimple that might be Olympic rivets.They are different.It does not appear that panels have been replaced.Why the diff?

[bwaysteve]

Originally Posted by Ambie '64

Steve, please pardon me for stepping on your thread, but I'm in a bit of a quandary regarding the nameplate. I don't know if there are any examples of a dark blue int'l land yacht with a light blue background. I don't know if this was original to the '64s but the dark blue lettering has got to be from the factory (the P.O. could never have done that good a job). I like the light blue background and would want to find the proper color. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dar,I think it must be as unique as the brass surrounds on mine.From what I gather on the threads people were able to customize some things at the factory although I haven't seen one like this either.Either way from the past threads one should get a case of beer and a few movies to restore.The bicycle looks like the tedious part.

[Wabbiteer]

Some light percussion parallel with the body or trim panel walking around 'the clock' on outside fasteners edge can break free the corrosion weld effect - OR - grind a clean square edged slot using dremel or roto-zip tool - OR - latch on with the pliers in the picture and wiggle it gently until you've got some movement then repeat the above...

I seem to recall having the heads fall off many of the screws and ended up worrying them out; the threads had rusted enough a little movement broke up the friction points and hauling heater etc out with screw shanks still attached?

[Ambie '64]

Thanks Steve. Your w/h door looks a lot better than mine did. I tend to agree with Wabbiteer (until you twist the heads off). You might try clamping the screws from the inside and working bass ackwards. In either case, I've found that no two screws are comparative regarding the PITA factor.

The antenna might be better put to use as a flagpole support.http://www.airforums.com/forums/images/smilies/lol.gif I've got the same one. You're doing a great job (how do you keep everything so tidy???)

As my Dad always told me, ''Keep your head down, son, and muddle your way through it.''

[bwaysteve]

Dar ,
I have to clean as I go just to keep my spirits up and not lose any tools.
Probably the best thing I bought was a blind rivet remover tool at Aircraft Tool Supply.
Great bits and a little serrated edge that stops the head from spinning.I guess I will polish up the antenna and use it for a "Don't Mess With Texas" Flag!
Are there any bolts on the HW and furnace other than outside panels?I removed rivets from the duct work and disconnected water lines so far.
I sent Prescision Temp an email to see how I could use those heat vents.I think the piano hinge is the best idea.
I was really amazed at how good the insulation looked and other than a few rusty bolts the channel is excellent.
How is your progress?
I really liked the insulation method you chose for the interior skins on the Ambie 64 redo thread.
You should need no air or heat with R20(well you live in Phoenix don't you!Maybe air at least) Post more soon!

[bwaysteve]

Where do I get PL Gutter Seal?