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Kristara7 · 05-20-2008, 05:17 PM

Hello, we just bought a 1965 26' landyacht something for $800 today, it is completely gutted, with the exception of the fridge which is new anyway. We're not sure what to do or how to design it, all we know is we want the bedroom in the back with a full size bed. Is there anything we need to check for? Anything that would create a problem in the floorplan? Any help, suggestions, opinions or advise would be excelent and greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tara

Phil and/or Sue · 05-20-2008, 05:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristara7

Hello, we just bought a 1965 26' landyacht something for $800 today, it is completely gutted, with the exception of the fridge which is new anyway. We're not sure what to do or how to design it, all we know is we want the bedroom in the back with a full size bed. Is there anything we need to check for? Anything that would create a problem in the floorplan? Any help, suggestions, opinions or advise would be excelent and greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Tara

Cool! Welcome, by the way. Please take time to read lots of stuff, and use the search feature.

Post pics when you can, that helps identify what you really have.

How much work do you plan to do yourself? There are plenty of threads on this forum that document all kinds of work done on various years and sizes of Airstreams.

There is is fact too much to take in at one time, so you might just subscribe to some that you want to remember, and then go back to them periodically to refresh your understanding. To subscribe to a thread (that you are viewing), just click on "Thread Tools" tab, then choose "Subscribe to this Thread". Then in your User Control Panel ("User CP" button), all subscribed threads are available. And anytime you reply, you are subscribed too, I think.

Please keep us up to date with your work, with pics whenever possible to help others too.

Phil

Aerowood · 05-20-2008, 05:45 PM

First thing to check is if the floor is sound with no soft spots or rot

Kristara7 · 05-22-2008, 08:06 AM

well, the guy had been using it as a "mobile bait and tackle" shop lol. It was strange, to say the least,but I put up a few pics. the floor seems to be great, except by the door which we will re-do and the a/c works, thats all the biggies I know to look for. We plan to do all the work ourself, it's going to be our project. One major question though, it has 12v and 210 wiring, which is better? or does there need to be a little of both? As of right now, we have taken everything out but the fridge, part of the tub frame and front area where theres a radio.

I think if you click on the picture it opens the slideshow

byamcaravanner · 05-22-2008, 09:22 AM

Interesting purchase.

Are you planning to include a bathroom in you plans? If so, the original was in the rear, but could be added at the side if you want a rear bedroom.

Check HERE for some info on what your trailer looked like originally.

BTW, that fridge is likely worth more than you paid for the whole trailer.

Good Luck!

vhord · 05-22-2008, 09:37 AM

Something smells fishy about this one!

I'm sorry I could not resist that one.

Good luck with you project. You have certainly come to the right place.

utee94 · 05-22-2008, 10:09 AM

Those bait prices look a little high to me, maybe that's why they had to sell the trailer!

The link that byamcaravanner provided should give you a good idea of the original layout of your trailer, and as he pointed out yours originally had a rear bath.

But with the gutted state that it's in, you could certainly locate the bath on a side, and put a bedroom in the rear. One thing to keep in mind if you do so, is that the black tank associated with the bathroom will be in a different location than it was designed for, which could affect the balance and weight distribution with respect to towing. And if you choose to add a gray tank (your trailer was not originally equipped with one), then that will also be a weight consideration for you. It's not a huge deal, a lot of people have successfully added tanks to their trailers or relocated existing ones, and searching through the forum will show you plenty of success stories along those lines. It's just something to consider.

Good luck on the restoration, and if you are willing to take the time to document your progress on a thread here on the Forums and/or in a web blog, there are a lot of people who would love to follow your renovation.

-Marcus

Inland RV Center, In · 05-22-2008, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristara7

well, the guy had been using it as a "mobile bait and tackle" shop lol. It was strange, to say the least,but I put up a few pics. the floor seems to be great, except by the door which we will re-do and the a/c works, thats all the biggies I know to look for. We plan to do all the work ourself, it's going to be our project. One major question though, it has 12v and 210 wiring, which is better? or does there need to be a little of both? As of right now, we have taken everything out but the fridge, part of the tub frame and front area where theres a radio.

I think if you click on the picture it opens the slideshow

There are many things you can do with that trailer.

Keep in mind, weight and balance is very crucial to good safe towing.

On the towing side, based on your photo's, the axles on that trailer have been shot for years.

If you decide to update the trailer to make it livable, with the present axles, you would destroy all your hard work, if you towed it.

Andy

Kristara7 · 05-23-2008, 10:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In

based on your photo's, the axles on that trailer have been shot for years

What do you mean, and why do you say that?

Kristara7 · 05-23-2008, 11:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by byamcaravanner

BTW, that fridge is likely worth more than you paid for the whole trailer.

What do you think its worth? I know its less than 2 yrs old, and can be power by both gas and electric. I would love to use it but for the floorplan we have designed now it wont fit without covering a window and losing major counter space.

Inland RV Center, In · 05-23-2008, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristara7

What do you mean, and why do you say that?

And what do you guys think the refrigerators worth? I am thinking about selling it, its too large for the plan we designed.

Reading the following article will teach you how to check out the axles yourself.

Dura Torque Axle

Rule of thumb is if you cannot see 2 to 3 inches of the tires, "above" the top of the wheels, then the axles are history.

Towing an Airstream trailer with bad axles, is a quick death sentence for the entire trailer.

Andy

monocoque · 05-23-2008, 11:31 AM

Welcome to the forum. Your trailer has an interesting history. A few of your pictures would make a wonderful contribution to this thread: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f161...res-41836.html
I never imagined that an airstream might have once housed fishy and wormy creatures!

Concerning the floorplan you might check on the Airstream and Vintage Airstream sites to see if owner and service manuals are available for this model. Especially the service manual which is as close as you might get to a blue print of your trailer. Good luck with your restoration and post lots of pictures of your progress!

byamcaravanner · 05-23-2008, 11:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristara7

What do you think its worth? I know its less than 2 yrs old, and can be power by both gas and electric.

I can't say what you could get for it used, but they sell new for $1000 +/-

bedfords · 05-23-2008, 12:17 PM

You definitely have a conversation piece. It sounds like something I would do. Most of us have some kind of story to tell about ours. You will enjoy telling yours.

My 2 cents:
Read like a mad man
Get a plan
make lots of lists
be flexible
celebrate the small things
remember anything is possible
take it slow and do it right
you can always go back and redo it
the best way is your way
if they say you can't it just means they can't
dream
never hesitate to ask

Good luck and have fun at it. I do

vhord · 05-23-2008, 01:00 PM

You might want to check here to see what yours originally looked like. I think there are five different ones shown.

utee94 · 05-23-2008, 02:11 PM

Here's an example of what NOT to do with your clean-slate gutted trailer...

(In my opinion, of course. Opinions may vary, etc, so on and so forth... )

Foiled Again · 05-23-2008, 02:42 PM

Was that white monstrosity the Pamela Anderson trailer? REAL practical in a dusty campground.

OK on to the basics. Use the SEARCH feature here - talking about "The Full Monte" means a frame off restoration. I don't restore (yet), but I admire those who do and follow their threads. I do know that there are two parts to every restoration SAFETY/FUNCTION and COSMETICS. Whatever you do, do the "SAFETY/FUNCTION ones first. If you haven't taken down the belly pan and inspected the frame for rust, damage, broken crossmembers, etc. that is your first thing. Then there are axles and brakes. Inland Andy is telling you the straight truth about your axles... the nice thing about replacing them is you get new bearings & brakes too. The bad news $$$$.

If you did a complete cosmetic repair then found out you had frame damage, you might have to tear everything out and start over so make sure you get the essentials first.

Do a lot of reading and planning before you start. Never throw anything away until you're absolutely SURE you won't need it (then offer it to other forum members), and measure, measure, measure everything that will eventually have to go back together again. Take detailed pictures too!

Also, remember you CAN camp in an "Aluminum tent" - get the axles, frame, and flooring issues taken care of and make sure you've got enough electrical power to control the signals and brakes, and that there are no active leaks (snicker) - then pile in a portapot and an air mattress and go camping. Going camping while working on the restoration will keep you inspired and moving forward. BTW, check for forum rallies and/or WBCCI rallies near you. Great opportunities to meet other folks who have been there, done that and gotten the T-shirt.

Oh people who don't like the rear bath have their dislike based on "people have to walk past your twin beds to take a tinkle in the middle of the night". Mid bath models tend to give you two living areas - the bedroom and the living room - if you need a 30 minute break from your spouse... priceless! However the rear baths do actually have a "tub"... nice to have a place to soak sometimes!

There are some REALLY beautiful restore/remodel jobs here for you to look at - but also if there's an Airstream dealer near you (100 miles or even longer) GO and take a look at the current plans. Great source of inspiration.

Last piece of unsolicited advice. How YOU want to use the Airstream is how YOU should remodel it. I look at my 25 FB SE and wonder why they didn't use a 2 burner stove instead of a 3 burner model - I've never had more than two in use at one time. I also prefer a "lobster bowl" sink as opposed to two tiny conventional sinks - because you can get a big plate or skillet INTO the big single bowl, the standard RV is too shallow and too small. I want more counter space for a Microwave darnit.

Post your plans - even if hand drawn on a napkin here - lots of great advice and suggestions will come flowing in.

See? Good luck and see you down the road! Paula

monocoque · 05-23-2008, 03:04 PM

Unfortunately, the service manual for your model isn't available from either the Vintage Airstream Club or from the main Airstream website.

Frequently Asked Questions

https://store.airstream.com/index.php?cPath=32

The first owners manuals were published in 1964. A service manual with instructions for performing service operations did not exist until 1972. You can get photocopies of owners manual (1964+) and service manuals (1972-1986) from either the Airstream website or:

Helen Davis Secretarial Services
PO Box 484 Sidney, OH 45365
(937)492-8885

malconium · 05-23-2008, 08:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kristara7

One major question though, it has 12v and 210 wiring, which is better? or does there need to be a little of both?

Did you pehaps mean 110 wiring? RV's typically have a mix of 110v and 12v wiring and Airstreams are no exception. The 110v is used when you are plugged into shore power such as at an RV park. The 12v wiring would be all you could use when you are not plugged in. When the 110v is plugged in it powers the charger/converter that provides 12v power and charges your 12v battery while it is at it. An AC unit will be 110v only. Battery power is just not enough to run an AC unit. Typically lower power or essential things like lighting are run on 12v so they will work either with or without the shore power. Your water pump would also be 12v so that you can have water at the tap even without the 110v.

I hope this gives you a head start on the wiring.

Malcolm

malconium · 05-23-2008, 08:55 PM

One thing that turns out to be fairly significant in thinking about floor plan changes is the placement of the windows. While technically it would be possible to change them it would be a lot of work. I have been gradually working on what started as a largely gutten 1973 31' unit. I have considered all sorts of layouts. I do have a model that had the bath in the middle to start with so it is pretty easy to stay with the bedroom in the rear.

I suggest that you draw up a to scale outline of the basic floor area including noting where the wheel wells, windows and door is located. They use tracing paper overlays to sketch various options on top of the base drawing. Or you can make many copies of the base plan for sketching too. Of course if you are CAD literate and have CAD software available you can do a lot of our sketches on your computer.

Other factors that can play a significant roll in the planning are:

1.) Location of the frame members and cross-members under the floor. You will have to locate your holding tank(s) somewhere and get plumbing to them.

2.) I have already mentioned wheel wells but they do really get in the way of a lot of possible floor plans.

3.) Any access hatches from the outside. It might be fine to ignore a hatch that is in the wrong place but it is harder to need one where none exists now.

4.) Where was the original charger/convertor? It may not be there at all now but whereever it was originally is where the bundle of wiring for your trailer all comes together. It is not particular easy to relocate without rewiring. If you intend to rewire it is obviously not such a big deal.

Have fun considering the options...

Malcolm