Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 05-23-2008, 02:00 PM   #15
4 Rivet Member
 
vhord's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 375
Images: 96
You might want to check here to see what yours originally looked like. I think there are five different ones shown.
__________________

__________________
vhord is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2008, 03:11 PM   #16
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,636
Here's an example of what NOT to do with your clean-slate gutted trailer...









(In my opinion, of course. Opinions may vary, etc, so on and so forth... )
__________________

utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2008, 03:42 PM   #17
Rivet Master
 
Foiled Again's Avatar
 
2012 25' FB Eddie Bauer
Vintage Kin Owner
Virginia Beach , Virginia
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,883
Gasp, Gag!

Was that white monstrosity the Pamela Anderson trailer? REAL practical in a dusty campground.

OK on to the basics. Use the SEARCH feature here - talking about "The Full Monte" means a frame off restoration. I don't restore (yet), but I admire those who do and follow their threads. I do know that there are two parts to every restoration SAFETY/FUNCTION and COSMETICS. Whatever you do, do the "SAFETY/FUNCTION ones first. If you haven't taken down the belly pan and inspected the frame for rust, damage, broken crossmembers, etc. that is your first thing. Then there are axles and brakes. Inland Andy is telling you the straight truth about your axles... the nice thing about replacing them is you get new bearings & brakes too. The bad news $$$$.

If you did a complete cosmetic repair then found out you had frame damage, you might have to tear everything out and start over so make sure you get the essentials first.

Do a lot of reading and planning before you start. Never throw anything away until you're absolutely SURE you won't need it (then offer it to other forum members), and measure, measure, measure everything that will eventually have to go back together again. Take detailed pictures too!

Also, remember you CAN camp in an "Aluminum tent" - get the axles, frame, and flooring issues taken care of and make sure you've got enough electrical power to control the signals and brakes, and that there are no active leaks (snicker) - then pile in a portapot and an air mattress and go camping. Going camping while working on the restoration will keep you inspired and moving forward. BTW, check for forum rallies and/or WBCCI rallies near you. Great opportunities to meet other folks who have been there, done that and gotten the T-shirt.

Oh people who don't like the rear bath have their dislike based on "people have to walk past your twin beds to take a tinkle in the middle of the night". Mid bath models tend to give you two living areas - the bedroom and the living room - if you need a 30 minute break from your spouse... priceless! However the rear baths do actually have a "tub"... nice to have a place to soak sometimes!

There are some REALLY beautiful restore/remodel jobs here for you to look at - but also if there's an Airstream dealer near you (100 miles or even longer) GO and take a look at the current plans. Great source of inspiration.

Last piece of unsolicited advice. How YOU want to use the Airstream is how YOU should remodel it. I look at my 25 FB SE and wonder why they didn't use a 2 burner stove instead of a 3 burner model - I've never had more than two in use at one time. I also prefer a "lobster bowl" sink as opposed to two tiny conventional sinks - because you can get a big plate or skillet INTO the big single bowl, the standard RV is too shallow and too small. I want more counter space for a Microwave darnit.

Post your plans - even if hand drawn on a napkin here - lots of great advice and suggestions will come flowing in.

See? Good luck and see you down the road! Paula
__________________
Today is a gift, that's why they call it the present.
Foiled Again is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2008, 04:04 PM   #18
Rivet Master
 
monocoque's Avatar
 
1975 29' Ambassador
San Antonio , Texas
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 517
Images: 10
Unfortunately, the service manual for your model isn't available from either the Vintage Airstream Club or from the main Airstream website.

Frequently Asked Questions

https://store.airstream.com/index.php?cPath=32

The first owners manuals were published in 1964. A service manual with instructions for performing service operations did not exist until 1972. You can get photocopies of owners manual (1964+) and service manuals (1972-1986) from either the Airstream website or:

Helen Davis Secretarial Services
PO Box 484 Sidney, OH 45365
(937)492-8885
__________________
Todd

“Complications arose, ensued, were overcome...savvy?”
- Captain Jack Sparrow
monocoque is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2008, 09:41 PM   #19
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristara7
One major question though, it has 12v and 210 wiring, which is better? or does there need to be a little of both?
Did you pehaps mean 110 wiring? RV's typically have a mix of 110v and 12v wiring and Airstreams are no exception. The 110v is used when you are plugged into shore power such as at an RV park. The 12v wiring would be all you could use when you are not plugged in. When the 110v is plugged in it powers the charger/converter that provides 12v power and charges your 12v battery while it is at it. An AC unit will be 110v only. Battery power is just not enough to run an AC unit. Typically lower power or essential things like lighting are run on 12v so they will work either with or without the shore power. Your water pump would also be 12v so that you can have water at the tap even without the 110v.

I hope this gives you a head start on the wiring.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-23-2008, 09:55 PM   #20
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Watch where the windows are...

One thing that turns out to be fairly significant in thinking about floor plan changes is the placement of the windows. While technically it would be possible to change them it would be a lot of work. I have been gradually working on what started as a largely gutten 1973 31' unit. I have considered all sorts of layouts. I do have a model that had the bath in the middle to start with so it is pretty easy to stay with the bedroom in the rear.

I suggest that you draw up a to scale outline of the basic floor area including noting where the wheel wells, windows and door is located. They use tracing paper overlays to sketch various options on top of the base drawing. Or you can make many copies of the base plan for sketching too. Of course if you are CAD literate and have CAD software available you can do a lot of our sketches on your computer.

Other factors that can play a significant roll in the planning are:

1.) Location of the frame members and cross-members under the floor. You will have to locate your holding tank(s) somewhere and get plumbing to them.

2.) I have already mentioned wheel wells but they do really get in the way of a lot of possible floor plans.

3.) Any access hatches from the outside. It might be fine to ignore a hatch that is in the wrong place but it is harder to need one where none exists now.

4.) Where was the original charger/convertor? It may not be there at all now but whereever it was originally is where the bundle of wiring for your trailer all comes together. It is not particular easy to relocate without rewiring. If you intend to rewire it is obviously not such a big deal.

Have fun considering the options...

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 02:05 AM   #21
1 Rivet Member
 
Kristara7's Avatar
 
1965 26' Overlander
dade city , Florida
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 17
I have a "to scale" drawing, but it's on graph paper, and is 1 square = 3 in. aka, 3 pages, I'd like to scan it in and get some opinions, but I have to find the time to get to the office. We've also been re-thinking our plan, the wheel wells, of course, get in the way of our shower. so we might just put the bath in the back, where it originally was. We have also been trying to figure out the best way to make some sort of pocket door, as thin as possible but not too flimsy, we just want to avoid an accordian door basically. and yes my two main reasons for the bath not being in the back are; at night people don't walk past us sleeping and I feel people would rather not walk through the bedroom period. Although we will be alone (with the exceptions of our 2 dogs) most of the time, so I guess it's not that big of a deal.

Also, we're almost positive we're moving the kitchen to the very front, simply because every rv/camper etc I've been in it's in the living room area and I'm not too fond of that, unless someone has a reason not to do that.

One more thing, Airianna (our AS) doesnt have a gray tank, or at least i think that's the one, where do I get one and about what do they cost??
__________________
Kristara7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 09:35 AM   #22
Rivet Master
 
utee94's Avatar
 
1963 26' Overlander
Austin , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,636
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kristara7
I have a "to scale" drawing, but it's on graph paper, and is 1 square = 3 in. aka, 3 pages, I'd like to scan it in and get some opinions, but I have to find the time to get to the office. We've also been re-thinking our plan, the wheel wells, of course, get in the way of our shower. so we might just put the bath in the back, where it originally was. We have also been trying to figure out the best way to make some sort of pocket door, as thin as possible but not too flimsy, we just want to avoid an accordian door basically. and yes my two main reasons for the bath not being in the back are; at night people don't walk past us sleeping and I feel people would rather not walk through the bedroom period. Although we will be alone (with the exceptions of our 2 dogs) most of the time, so I guess it's not that big of a deal.

Also, we're almost positive we're moving the kitchen to the very front, simply because every rv/camper etc I've been in it's in the living room area and I'm not too fond of that, unless someone has a reason not to do that.

One more thing, Airianna (our AS) doesnt have a gray tank, or at least i think that's the one, where do I get one and about what do they cost??
The wheel wells can definitely be in the way, but I've seen several side-bath models that used the wheel well as part of a molded shower seat-- and if you've followed the trends in new construction of homes, these shower seats are becoming very popular, especially as a feature for folks who are planning for the days when they grow a bit older. So I wouldn't rule out the side bath for that reason, it just takes some careful planning.

For information on constructing a pocket door, you should check out Sergei's Argosy "contemporization" thread. He fabricated an entirely new one, and that thread has a lot of other great ideas in it, especially for someone starting from scratch. This lnks to page 10 of Sergei's thread where he discusses the pocket door toward the bottom, but you should take some time to look through the rest of it someday:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f227...-18448-10.html

Good luck!
utee94 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 12:04 PM   #23
1 Rivet Member
 
Kristara7's Avatar
 
1965 26' Overlander
dade city , Florida
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 17
that's funny, i kept saying the same thing to my b/f about building the seat to kind of conform to the wheel well, I wanted one so i could shave my legs easier though, since we will be doing a lot of beach side camping. The other problem with doing that is the bedroom will be very small, like open the BR door and all four sides of the bed against a wall, unless we use a twin.
OK, I give, I have to scan in my drawing later today, lol, get opinions on that.

-Tara
__________________
Kristara7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 01:19 PM   #24
Rivet Master
 
urbanfood's Avatar
 
1956 22' Flying Cloud
Venice , California
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 672
check out this link; it'll answer many many questions, providing you have a year and a half to sit and read it all;

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f44/...ons-35399.html
__________________
david

*by asking the above question,
i verify that i have already used
the search feature to the best of my ability...
urbanfood is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 02:35 PM   #25
Rivet Master
 
1973 31' Sovereign
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: May 2004
Posts: 1,245
Images: 22
Some floor plan ideas...

Our side bath had a tub/shower that had a seat that fit over the wheel well. There are a number of such tubs available. If you do an internet search for "RV tub" you can find more but check out this one for starters. It shows photos of some of the modles that are available. You might have to ask the vendor which ones have enough clearance under the seat for the wheel well.

Dyer's RV Suppllies - RV Supplies, RV Parts, and RV Accessories - Shower & Bath Tubs

For a rear bedroom it does take more floor space to provide clearance around the bed for walk around room. On the other hand it is possible to do a wall to wall bed if you don't mind that it would be harder to make the bed since you would have to crawl on top of it to tuck the sheets and etc. in. You could also use some sort of sleeping bag.

Some floorplans that I have seen put both the bed and the bath in the back side by side. You have to crawl into the bed but it is more from the front end rather than from the side. It is also possible, by the way, to get mattresses that are built to fit the curve of an Airstream end or corner if you want to put the bed in the end. You could for example put the bed sideways at the very back end and maybe still be able to provide enough of an aisle in front of the bed to make it easier to make and to get in and out. You would have to have a mattress that fit the back curve on one side. Whether or not that would work well for you would depend a bit on how tall you are. Sleeping in the curve would be slightly restricted on space.

Another alternative that can buy you some space for a back bedroom is to orient the bath across the from side to side rather than just putting it on one side. This would mean that you would have to go through the bath to get to the bedroom but it could also mean that the bath takes up less space from front to back. There are new RV's that use this sort of approach so why not an airstream? One layout that I have at least thought about was to put the shower in the middle of a cross-wise bathroom and either make the bathroom a wet bath or have a wrap around shower curtain. You would be standing in the middle of the shower pan when you walk through the bath but you could have a removable floor panel of some sort if that was an issue. At least you would not be entirely wasting aisle space.

Malcolm
__________________
Only he who attempts the ridiculous can achieve the impossble.
malconium is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 04:43 PM   #26
Be Not Afraid JMJ + AMDG
 
Roamin Cat's Avatar
 
2008 25' Safari
Quiet Green , Connecticut
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 243
Hi Tara,

Malcolm's idea of a split bathroom is exactly what our 25FB came with. It does not feel like we are walking through the bathroom at all to get to the front bedroom. On one side of the hall is the shower (with the seat you mention) and across from it is the toilet and sink in its own room. We can pull an accordian "door" closed between the split bath and the bedroom or the other one between the split bath and the rest of the unit, which gives us lots of room to get ready and privacy for whoever is showering. I like the split design because both sides can be used at the same time.

I just wish it had pocket doors instead of the accordian "doors".
__________________
Cats

AIRSTREAM Life

"Color delights my spirit"
avatar artist
Roamin Cat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-25-2008, 09:44 PM   #27
1 Rivet Member
 
Kristara7's Avatar
 
1965 26' Overlander
dade city , Florida
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 17
We went to lowes today, and yesterday, about fifty times. It was horible we ended up getting some thin boards to make the walls, which will have pocket doors. 2 sheets of plywood to fill in an area that did not have it and laminate floor. If anyone else has had the laminate wood floors please let me know if the AS will flex too much.
Just to let you know, I have no idea about remodeling rv's at all lol, I've done many houses but no AS. I've always wanted one to re-do the way I want and I got my b/f to fall in love with them also, so I came home from work last week and Airianna was sitting in the yard, yay! But I'm really thinking it's going to be a very rewarding pain in the butt so if I sound ignorant or unknowing about something, I really have no idea.

The stage we're at now, it's empty, the fridge is still in there but not hooked up or held down, we just need to bring it in the garage. We plan on pulling an all nighter tonight, getting the walls cleaned and temp. painted, cutting all the boards for the walls etc. and getting the floor ready to lay laminate tomorrow. hopefully.

I'm getting really frustrated with the floorplan though, I cant seem to design something i'm satisfied with. I've got everything but im having a problem with having a twin bed, I'd like a full. So far i've got the split bathroom thing going on, as a seperate room right before the bedroom. My only problem is the windows, since ours originally had the 2 twins in the middle in the hall, it seems no matter what I come up with at least one window falls where a wall needs to be, we might cover one or two up but are trying to avoid doing so. I'm a pefectionist, and I hate things to not be 100% of possibilities, I hate to use space unwisely and I feel that the floor plans I'm designing are doing that. I'll try to sketch something up on the comp real quick to give you an idea of what im thinking til I scan in the actual drawing
__________________
Kristara7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-26-2008, 12:49 AM   #28
1 Rivet Member
 
Kristara7's Avatar
 
1965 26' Overlander
dade city , Florida
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 17
okay, plans changed...
we now have most of the floor ripped out. We're replacing them all.
__________________

__________________
Kristara7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Track Lighting & Lighting Ideas ClassicRides Electrical - Systems, Generators, Batteries & Solar 8 08-29-2008 03:03 PM
traveling airstream-less & looking for some ideas lilmouse On The Road... 0 01-26-2008 10:16 PM
It's gutted, now what? BurnBound General Repair Forum 9 09-16-2004 01:51 PM
Gutted 1957 Over59 1954 - 1959 Overlander 7 02-28-2004 09:06 PM


Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 09:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.