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Old 11-19-2006, 05:54 PM   #1
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Question Framing out 60x80 bed

I have 1" square tubing to use on the deck of this bed frame.

I want to use as thin a layer of plywood as I can, I'm planning on running the tubing across the 60" width.

What spacing do you think I can use with what thickness plywood?
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Old 11-19-2006, 06:54 PM   #2
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Probably a tube across every 20", and one down the center, with 3/8" plywood would suffice.
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:04 PM   #3
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Framing

Bob---Reading your post, sounds like your objective is to have the lightest combined weight of frame and plywood top cover consistent with minimum sag/deflection of the top cover and still achieve a good nights sleep. The amount of allowable sag varies by the individual comfort level.

If you have plywood around the house in different thicknesses, then consider running a little test. If you don't have the steel tubing yet, use any scrap lumber to represent the frame, make several cross supports from material of the same thickness as the outer frame, and then put the test sheet on top, lay down and check for sag. Increase the spacing of the cross members until sag becomes too much(probably a fraction of one inch).

If you want to skip the testing part and knowing that sleeping well is more important than saving a couple more pounds of trailer weight, consider putting cross members 12 inches apart with 1/2 inch plywood that has been anchored to the frame and cross members with screws.

Good luck and let us know what works for you.
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:12 PM   #4
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Thanks, I did try a few layouts with 1/4" over 12" spacing and that was flexing too much.

So it appears that 3/8" may work, now 20" on center was suggested by Overlander.

I can try a few different spacings, I didn't have a piece of 3/8's to test out today.

I was hoping to hear from someone with actual experience, it also changes I think when you add the foam.
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Old 11-19-2006, 07:35 PM   #5
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Foam cushions the load, but doesn't spread it very much.
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:34 PM   #6
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When the fellow who did our remodel made the platform for our bed (72x74) he used Torsion Box construction. Here's an example:


Name:   Torsion Box.jpg
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The platform for our bed is approx. 1.5 inches thick and the 'skins' of the torsion box are 1/4" Plywood
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Old 11-19-2006, 09:57 PM   #7
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Platform construction

I used 3/4" x 1" fir for outside frame, filled in the center with two layers of 1/2" foam sheeting (kind used for home construction / comes in 4x8 and 4x10 sheets). Covered top and bottom with 1/4" luaun. If the luaun is fresh from the mill (some use formaldehyde in processing), let it rest on an edge and off-gas for a couple of days. When glued and nailed the panels are really strong. On the top side we finished off with gluing down the ribbed exterior carpet. I have some photos of panels and support framing I will post later.
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Old 11-19-2006, 10:04 PM   #8
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I like these two ideas, the torsion box and the foam core.

Love to see pic's
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Old 11-19-2006, 11:01 PM   #9
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What about the LOAD??

You fail to indicate the load to be applied to the frame. Heavy load, wide load, concentrated load or bouncy load. Just a few things to consider! sleep well
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Old 11-20-2006, 02:48 AM   #10
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Hello All.. Would be very interested in seeing some pics as we are changing our rear twin to sideways queen.. We toured some new airstreams yesterday and did some measurements..
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Old 11-20-2006, 07:57 AM   #11
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The "factory" east-west queen bed in our motorhome was made of about eight 1 x 2" aluminum box sections running width-wise. They attached with screws to the bed pedastal. It was then skinned with 1/4" luan ply. Very lightweight construction, but it was in there and working fine for 20 years.
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Old 11-20-2006, 08:37 AM   #12
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You may want to check out the photo's of the pedestal I made for our bed in our 25' Excella. http://www.airforums.com/photo...00&userid=3264

One thing you should consider is toe space underneath the platform at the perimeter. Usually, there's not a lot of extra space around the pedestal so toespace is critical for getting around.

On my pedestal, I set the vertical supports back 5" from the edge. This does two things, it provides toespace and it locates the support closer to being directly under the load, me and my wife. The cantilevered 1/2" cabinet grade plywood deck is plenty strong enough to cantilever 5" as well as reduce sag between the outside and center supports, even with my 240 lb. body and a good mattress on it. The center support is close enough to the outside supports to minimize deflection in the plywood deck. There is also a vertical support forming the enclosure for the outside storage access door, and this support is strategically located to help support the plywood deck directly under the body torso area when sleeping. Deflection of the plywood deck is minimal and not noticable.

The whole design has worked great and shows no sign of weakness after 3 years and many miles. The pedestal was made from OEM components used for the original twin beds.
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Old 11-20-2006, 09:57 AM   #13
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Bob,
The torsion box picture got me to thinking. Great idea, but a lot of work.
How about using a hollow core lauan door or doors? We use them as portable bench tops in my cabinetmaking business. The strength to weight ratio beats any piece of plywood, and they're less likely to twist or warp.
They have a corrugated cardboard honeycomb core and solid edges, come in a variety of sizes and are easily modified.
They're inexpensive and available at Home Depot etc.
We usually add a piece of high pressure laminate (Formica) to one side for durability.
Just an idea, but the more I think about it... the more I like it!
Jeff
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Old 11-20-2006, 10:13 AM   #14
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Bob .. Great design.. that is what we have planned for the Argosy.. just wanted to know if you used the mattress with the rounded ends.. we have shortened up the triple closet to a large double so we have the walk around for the short queen.. we were thinking of doing this like the bed in our 5th wheel .. it just lifts with pistons...
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