A T framework sounds like a good idea. Actually I have done that for drywall myself so I know what you folks are talking about. For some silly reason I had not thought about doing that for the Airstream though.
Actually if I did cut the panels I would not need to overlap them making them shorter. What I would do would be to put a splice strip behind the panel joint and rivet the bigger pieces to it on both sides of the cut. What I was thinking about doing actually would be to lay the splice piece in place on the panel, drill rivet holes and then cut the big piece. That way the two cut pieces would still align with each other in exactly the same way as originally. I would rivet the splice piece to one of the panels before putting it up and then rivet the other one to it when it was inplace.
make a couple of T racks out of scrap 2x4's cut one the height you need and another the width, nail or screw them together.
Thats the way sheet rock is done.
Also insulate that access door, just glue a piece of foil to it.
Thats a good point about adding foil to the access hatch. I actually have to think about whether or not to leave the hatch or cover over it entirely, though. The orignal floor plan had the head of the double bed at the side so that the hatch actually accessed area under the bed. I am intending to put the head of a queen size bed under the back window and run the bed lengthwise. That makes this access hatch and its cousin on the other side of the trailer of somewhat questionable value.
Anyone have any ideas for covering over unused openings in the inner skin? I have given some casual thought to installing a thin wood overaly (perhaps 1/8" plywood) as a sort of wainscoting up to the bottom of the windows.
What kind of lights are those in your center panel?
Malcolm
Yes what are those?
I'm hoping Led's.
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Bob
'77 Sovereign Intl 31' CB '07 GMC 4x4 2500HD EC 8.1 Allision six | Bedrug | Softopper | Airbags
WBCCI 11411 | Metro NY | AIR 15915
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The down lights are Alico Zee-Puk 18w XENON. The trim rings are not mounted yet. I don’t like the cold white of LED.
They are on two cool looking 12v dimmers from FriLight in Sweden.
Steve, when I try to attach directly from iPhoto, the files are always too big for this forum. The only way I can figure to do it is send myself an email of the smallest size, than drag those out for sending to the forum.
Steve, when I try to attach directly from iPhoto, the files are always too big for this forum. The only way I can figure to do it is send myself an email of the smallest size, than drag those out for sending to the forum.
Any ideas?
Sergei
I'm a mac user too and used to do just what you do, mail it to myself.
I see that the forum now allows up to 1MB (1600 x 1600) for photos. A better way to resize photos in iPhoto is to use the <File> <Export> function. You'll be able to resize without cropping. Just name the maximum dimensions and your're good to go. Simply "export" to your desktop. Resize it in this screen:
Just to see how big we can get here's a 1600 x 1200 photo too(720 KB)...
Once you have uploaded and have the message attached simply locate where you want it in the posting with your cursor, click the paperclip at the top menu and select the photo you want to place, the photos ID number will have "attach" brackets around it in the message...and you could probably move it again manually if needed. I do not know why the software chooses to place some photos directly and some as thumnails....it probably has to do with size. Sooner or later you will run out of forum upload space and you might want to think about a free photo host site like Flickr or photobucket, etc. That's how I've been posting pics here and on my blog. I hope to see more photos of your excellent restoration!
Best wishes,
Steve
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I have been thinking a bit more about installing my upper side inner skin panel. One of the things that I think would help would be to force the whole panel into a curve that is perhaps slightly smaller in radius than it will be when fully installed. I noticed that one problem I was having when I did try it before was that the flat panel was hard to position against the curve to try to find rivet holes that aligned. My thought is to take some heavy duty strapping tape (the kind with fibers in it) and tape the panel into an arc at several places along its length. This would accomplish two things:
1.) The panel would now be easier to lift and keep straight. I suspect that it would also be a bit easier to keep it on top of t-bars too.
2.) As mentioned the panel should now fit the actual curve of the body ribs making it a lot easier to look for an alignment of holes.
My thought is to try to find matching holes along the bottom edge first and then look for ones along the top edge - or even some in the middle. I am thinking that the tape could easily be cut even with the edge of the panel if I can not actually get it out from behind - which might be pretty hard. I did think about using small luggage straps but that would be really hard to get out from behind. They might be OK though if it could get enough holes aligned and fastened at the ends of the panel leaving some gap still in the middle to take out the straps.
On another note I went looking for a type of product that I thought I had seen before for lifting cabinets and such into place. I found the two following products:
The first one is cheaper and might work beter because of the fact that the ends articulate and have rubber pads on them. I could not tell if the other one did have articulating ends or rubber pads. There is a difference in lifting capacity too. 70lbs for the first vs. 400 pounds for the second.
I am wondering if I could use step ladders as a stand. I have to take a closer look at mine. I have a couple of folding aluminum ones. I used to have two that were identical but I am not sure that is still the case.
I am going to have to wait until next Monday to give all this more of a try. I will report back on what I find out. Maybe I can even take some photos to post.
I would appreciate any thoughts on the ideas above.
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You unit is looking great. I gather that you are putting in all new wiring? Is your foil spaced away from the outer skin? If so you don't have very much space left for the fiberglass. My guess is that you would do just as well to leave the fiberglass out. I think the foil is most effective with a clear air gap next to it which the fiberglass would block at least some. Also 3/4" of fiberglass would have an R value of maybe 1 or so. Not all that much.
Just get three or four strong guys to help you. It will be faster, cheaper, easier than building, buying or renting any of these devices.
Sergei
The problem is that I have to do the different parts of the inner skin in stages rather than all in one session so it may not be all that easy to collect 3 or 4 guys just when I need them. If I can figure out a few simple things with scrap lumber I should be OK since I have enough of that around without having to buy anything else. I tend to consider things like this a bit of a challenge to see if there is a simple way that I can do it all by myself or at least with minimal help. I am still thinking about it though so we shall see and I will report back later.
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